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DIY: Starter Change Swap (for dummies)

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Old 04-02-2010, 05:32 AM
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Silly question, but how are you sure that its flooding and not starting again because of another issue?
Old 04-02-2010, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Vyndictive
Silly question, but how are you sure that its flooding and not starting again because of another issue?

I really don't know. I just assumed that it was flooding and tried the deflooding explained in the quick reference. It seemed to startup after 4 or 5 tries.
How can I figure out whether it is flooding or something else?
Old 04-05-2010, 05:10 PM
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I was trying to change the starter motor just now so obviously needed to disconnect the battery for a while. After that, I tried starting the car which was fine. Left it running idle while I was cleaning up. When I took out for a spin, when I put the clutch down, the revs then kept going down to 0... I think the throttle sensor or something needs to be readjusted? I never had this problem before even when I was changing the battery myself. And I thought the ECU would have reset everything because when I was idling when I was tidying up it was OK? Now it can't seem to ideal on its own.... any inputs would be appreciated.

PS. I didn't actually manage to swap the motors over... the nuts were too tight... the nuts holding it in... for me to unscrew it, I should be turning counter clockwise right?
Old 04-06-2010, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by balkhu
I really don't know. I just assumed that it was flooding and tried the deflooding explained in the quick reference. It seemed to startup after 4 or 5 tries.
How can I figure out whether it is flooding or something else?
Are their massive amounts of smoke when you do get it started? Flooding doesn't tend to happen this often and parking on an incline should have absolutely nothing to do with flooding at all. . .

Originally Posted by AceCobra1
I was trying to change the starter motor just now so obviously needed to disconnect the battery for a while. After that, I tried starting the car which was fine. Left it running idle while I was cleaning up. When I took out for a spin, when I put the clutch down, the revs then kept going down to 0... I think the throttle sensor or something needs to be readjusted? I never had this problem before even when I was changing the battery myself. And I thought the ECU would have reset everything because when I was idling when I was tidying up it was OK? Now it can't seem to ideal on its own.... any inputs would be appreciated.

PS. I didn't actually manage to swap the motors over... the nuts were too tight... the nuts holding it in... for me to unscrew it, I should be turning counter clockwise right?
This same issue happened to me and if was confusing as all hell to figure out. When you disconnected your battery your car's computer forget its fuel trims, basically, how much fuel it takes to keep the car idling properly etc.

Check your upper air intake for oil or an oily residue. What happened to me when my engine would just stall whenever it was warmed up and I put the clutched down or anything was the the Secondary Shutter Valve (SSV) had been covered with oil by oil getting through my air intake and baking on to the SSV causing it to be stuck closed. The valve needs to open when the car is idling, so when its stuck closed, your car can't idle.

Your old fuel trims may have adjusted to this condition overtime running richer and richer to compensate for that valve being stuck closed, now that you've reset it, the trims can't adjust to the levels that they were before the battery was removed.
Old 04-06-2010, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by AceCobra1
I was trying to change the starter motor just now so obviously needed to disconnect the battery for a while. After that, I tried starting the car which was fine. Left it running idle while I was cleaning up. When I took out for a spin, when I put the clutch down, the revs then kept going down to 0... I think the throttle sensor or something needs to be readjusted? I never had this problem before even when I was changing the battery myself. And I thought the ECU would have reset everything because when I was idling when I was tidying up it was OK? Now it can't seem to ideal on its own.... any inputs would be appreciated.

PS. I didn't actually manage to swap the motors over... the nuts were too tight... the nuts holding it in... for me to unscrew it, I should be turning counter clockwise right?
just give the car a couple of drive cycles and while rolling press the clutch so the car can relearn to "catch the revs" for idle. if it starts to get to low just bring the car to a stop and it will catch idle, just keep doing that for like 2-3 mins in a parking lot and the car will be good to go.
Old 04-06-2010, 08:29 AM
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No, there is no smoke when it does finally start. The new starter is currently out on fedex truck for delivery. So, I'll install it this weekend and see if that fixes anything.

Also, it sounds like it is possible to get this fuel trim issue on an automatic as well, right? How would you fix/avoid it?
Old 04-12-2010, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by balkhu
No, there is no smoke when it does finally start. The new starter is currently out on fedex truck for delivery. So, I'll install it this weekend and see if that fixes anything.

Also, it sounds like it is possible to get this fuel trim issue on an automatic as well, right? How would you fix/avoid it?
I've been having this issue a lot too. In this warm weather,I would rev my engine to 4k for about 5 seconds. After the car shuts down, 2 mins later I'll be spending 2-3 mins trying to start the car and after it starts, no white smoke. Am I in need of a new starter or spark plugs? I don't have problems if I wait 15 mins or more after the engine is shut off.
Old 04-13-2010, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by balkhu
make that 4 times straight. I went to the same downward slope, and shut down th engine....just to realize that it flooded again. I have never had problem starting from cold. In fact it even sounds like updated started when I start the car in the morning. Why do you guys think I am having this problem while the car is warm?

BTW, I did order the new starter from the same ebay vendor. Turns out, it costs $245 for the automatic starter.
Reading this made me think of the fuel pump. Have you noticed if you had a full gas tank or if it was less than half? I don't think this has anything to do with flooding the engine (as you said, you drove for 20miles), but a lot to do with your pump (I could be wrong). It has never happened to my 8, because I haven't parked on a downward slope with a almost empty tank, but it has happened to me with some other cars that I owned. The fuel was only in one side of the tank and the pump had a hard time getting to it, as I rolled down the hill to a more even ground, the car started fine. Again, I could be wrong, but try it with a full tank of gas and let us know.
Old 04-13-2010, 07:29 AM
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This might be a dumb question but does a new starter = a new key?
Old 04-13-2010, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by BG-8
Reading this made me think of the fuel pump. Have you noticed if you had a full gas tank or if it was less than half? I don't think this has anything to do with flooding the engine (as you said, you drove for 20miles), but a lot to do with your pump (I could be wrong). It has never happened to my 8, because I haven't parked on a downward slope with a almost empty tank, but it has happened to me with some other cars that I owned. The fuel was only in one side of the tank and the pump had a hard time getting to it, as I rolled down the hill to a more even ground, the car started fine. Again, I could be wrong, but try it with a full tank of gas and let us know.

Well, my car does seem to start a little shaky when I am towards the end of the tank. In case of the downward slope, I definitely had less than half a tank of gas, but not towards the end. I also noticed a little rough idling on the downgrade before shutting the engine. How can I be sure if this is the fuel pump?
Old 04-13-2010, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by cyclone1208
This might be a dumb question but does a new starter = a new key?
No.
Old 04-13-2010, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Hung_horse31
I've been having this issue a lot too. In this warm weather,I would rev my engine to 4k for about 5 seconds. After the car shuts down, 2 mins later I'll be spending 2-3 mins trying to start the car and after it starts, no white smoke. Am I in need of a new starter or spark plugs? I don't have problems if I wait 15 mins or more after the engine is shut off.
I had the exact same problem last summer. I used to get better results when I added octane booster to the gas also. As it turned out, I had to replace the spark plugs (about 45K miles and 5 years old), and decarb the engine. Initially the dealer had charged my $500 for the job. But when I went back with TSB which clearly showed that this was covered for 8 years/80K miles, they refunded me the cost.

The dealer was also proposing that I install new battery and started, otherwise I'll have issues again. I changed the battery last summer. I have the starter with me now, which I will try to install this coming weekend.

So, how long has it been since your last spark plug change and/or decarb?
Old 04-13-2010, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by balkhu
I had the exact same problem last summer. I used to get better results when I added octane booster to the gas also. As it turned out, I had to replace the spark plugs (about 45K miles and 5 years old), and decarb the engine. Initially the dealer had charged my $500 for the job. But when I went back with TSB which clearly showed that this was covered for 8 years/80K miles, they refunded me the cost.

The dealer was also proposing that I install new battery and started, otherwise I'll have issues again. I changed the battery last summer. I have the starter with me now, which I will try to install this coming weekend.

So, how long has it been since your last spark plug change and/or decarb?


Hi Balku,

Thanks for the quick followup! I have not yet change my spark plugs yet. I'm at 61k and my car is 5 yrs old. So your saying that spark plugs are cover under tsb for 8 years? I wonder if I can have them change this for me? I'll have to look for the TSB.
Old 04-13-2010, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Hung_horse31
Hi Balku,

Thanks for the quick followup! I have not yet change my spark plugs yet. I'm at 61k and my car is 5 yrs old. So your saying that spark plugs are cover under tsb for 8 years? I wonder if I can have them change this for me? I'll have to look for the TSB.
spark plug, in itself, is not covered since it is normal wear and tear. However, if you complain that you have "engine cranks but does not start" problem, then the decarb and associated spark plug change is covered.
Old 04-13-2010, 09:34 AM
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Here is the original post:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=balkhu

Here is the TSB:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-08-1924g.pdf

check out page 15 for warranty information.

Or,
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...5-08-1883f.pdf
check out the first page

Last edited by balkhu; 04-13-2010 at 09:39 AM. Reason: added one more link
Old 04-14-2010, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BG-8
Reading this made me think of the fuel pump. Have you noticed if you had a full gas tank or if it was less than half? I don't think this has anything to do with flooding the engine (as you said, you drove for 20miles), but a lot to do with your pump (I could be wrong). It has never happened to my 8, because I haven't parked on a downward slope with a almost empty tank, but it has happened to me with some other cars that I owned. The fuel was only in one side of the tank and the pump had a hard time getting to it, as I rolled down the hill to a more even ground, the car started fine. Again, I could be wrong, but try it with a full tank of gas and let us know.
I got to try it today at the same spot, but this time I had more than half tank of gas. No problem starting. Sounds like the problem is with the fuel pump or fuel filter? Any idea how I can confirm this further without taking it to the dealer?

I did some search on this site and seems like the easiest thing to do is drive around with more than 1/4 tank of gas. I could not find a DIY on this topic. So, couldn't figure out how involved the fix/swap is...
Old 04-15-2010, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by balkhu
I got to try it today at the same spot, but this time I had more than half tank of gas. No problem starting. Sounds like the problem is with the fuel pump or fuel filter? Any idea how I can confirm this further without taking it to the dealer?

I did some search on this site and seems like the easiest thing to do is drive around with more than 1/4 tank of gas. I could not find a DIY on this topic. So, couldn't figure out how involved the fix/swap is...
I'm glad that you figured it out, but yet the problem is still there. I don't think by buying a new fuel pump will fix the problem, but you never know...

I know you searched in here but this is a good thread with lots of info on the matter....
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ight=fuel+pump
Old 04-15-2010, 05:35 AM
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Could try cleaning the fuel "sock"... there is a diy for that.
Old 04-15-2010, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Vyndictive
Could try cleaning the fuel "sock"... there is a diy for that.
Thanks. I'll read on it tonight and see if it is something I can tackle.
Old 04-15-2010, 08:36 AM
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I kept breaking the tabs off the gas tank lid until I was able to find the right tool and have someone helping me. . . it isn't what I would call easy.
Old 04-15-2010, 08:37 AM
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^ you really need the 'special service tool' to remove the integral pump/filter unit. Not too difficult with the right tool. No smoking of course.


From the good folks at BHR/MM: http://blackhaloracing.com/technical/fuel-pump-tech/
Old 04-15-2010, 04:34 PM
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I love how this thread started with Starter DIY, and moved on resolving Fuel-Pump issues.... lol, lol
Old 04-18-2010, 10:23 AM
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Finally read the DIY about cleaning sock. sounds simple enough...I'll give it a try sometime before next weekend. What is this special tool you guys are talking about to remove the O ring? Is it something autozone rents?
Old 04-18-2010, 10:27 AM
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BTW, for what it is worth, I sent an email to mazda listing all of the issues I have had with this car and asked them to at least cover a starter or fuel pump :D

So, here are the issues I have had (most of them in last year):
Issues during warranty period:
1. Car stopped in the middle of the highway in the middle of the night and would not start. The dealer replaced the spark plugs saying it was a known issue. This happened within 1st 10K miles.
2. Squeaking brakes replaced under 10K miles.
3. Car vibrated during idle. Engine mounts were replaced.
4. Engine cranked, but did not start around 49K miles. Dealer performed a decarb of engine. They suggested stronger battery and a new starter, but mentioned that warranty would not cover it. I purchased the battery myself. The starter still needs to be replaced. (Pending)

Issues after warranty expired:
5. Condensation in tail lights. (Pending)
6. Sun visors broken, fixed it myself. Might need replacing at some point. (Pending)
7. Temperature control **** does not work properly. I fixed it myself.
8. CEL code P2070 came up several times and then went away on its own. Never cleaned the SSV. (Pending)
9. Sway bar end links broken on both sides. I replaced those from my pocket.
10. Fuel pump assembly seems to be not working now because I cannot start the car when I park on downgrade slope with less than ¼ tank of gas. (Pending)
11. Door rattles. It always has, specially during summer months. (Pending)



I will add more if I remember more.....
Old 04-19-2010, 06:40 AM
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Flooding only when refueling...?

Hi, sorry if i am going of the topic abit... but you all seem very knowledged about starting problems.

My RX8 is a 2004 model (so weak starter) on about 75k miles. I only purchased it privatley a month ago. At first it was terrible at starting it would take about 10seconds and alot of the times about 4 or 5 attempets. The mazda garage said i need to replace my coil pack as thats what they thought was causing the problem...

I bought brand new set of mazda coils and spark plugs... After installing it it made such a difference... The car would start first time in cold or hot... (still would take 3-4 seconds to start) but i was satisfied.

Only recently its started having problems again.... It starts up fine in cold. Its only when i am re-fueling this happens. Every time i put fuel in my car it takes about 5 tries to start the car and its pretty embarrass. This has happened every time for the last 4 re-fuelings and once after a short drive (even though the engine was warm).

I was going to purchase the upgraded starter of a 2007 rx8 which had done 30k. but before i do i was thinking if it could be anything else?

Thanks for reading and i hope you have some useful insight.


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