DIY: Spark Plug change.......
Replaced the spark plugs today. Had lots of trouble getting one of them loose. but all done =)
So nasty looking eh? There were lots of oil around 2 of the plugs. Normal? Also my 2 of my wires are very loose fitting on the plugs. Time to replace!
Thanks for all your help. Love all these DIY!!!! =)
So nasty looking eh? There were lots of oil around 2 of the plugs. Normal? Also my 2 of my wires are very loose fitting on the plugs. Time to replace!
Thanks for all your help. Love all these DIY!!!! =)
I'm a proud new owner of a Velocity Red! I couldn't wait to get her up on my lift! I was done with all the maintenance in no time! The plugs were quite easy to get to! Try a Nissan x-terra v6 or a MistuBITCHi Montero! The only annoying thing was to change the air filter. But I got it in anyway, plus a little help from my nephew (6 years old).
This car is simply marvelous!
btw RX8Lovah: my plugs looked just like yours, but were dry and as I was double checking you really have to make sure you push the plug wire on!
This car is simply marvelous!
btw RX8Lovah: my plugs looked just like yours, but were dry and as I was double checking you really have to make sure you push the plug wire on!
Last edited by raknaks; Sep 11, 2010 at 09:45 PM.
I think the first time I replaced my filter it involved stabbing it with a screwdriver to get it off.
I find using the K&N oil filter is the easiest.
It has a one inch nut welded on the top.
So my 1 inch wrench works great with less hassle and mess.
It has a one inch nut welded on the top.
So my 1 inch wrench works great with less hassle and mess.
Be glad you don't have to change the filter on a Series II. It would make you appreciate your Series I filter...
They also make sockets and wrenches for removing the oil filter. So if you do your own oil changes, it may be worth the investment if you plan on keeping your 8 for a few years.
Plugs and wires changed and my 8's purring like a kitten.
I had a noise that I don't think I mentioned -- I had a ticking sound, almost like a time bomb, whose speed went up and down with RPMs. I think it must have been my dangling plug wire arcing to either the plug or the frame. That noise is now gone with new plugs and wires that actually stay on.
I had a noise that I don't think I mentioned -- I had a ticking sound, almost like a time bomb, whose speed went up and down with RPMs. I think it must have been my dangling plug wire arcing to either the plug or the frame. That noise is now gone with new plugs and wires that actually stay on.
what a PITA......
got them all changed and car still worked...yea.
The holes for the trailing plugs where really rusty inside. All the plugs looked like RX8Lovah's above. Also think I might have a crack on the outside of the front rotor housing right by the trailing plug hole.
edit:
Also... you don't need to get under the car at all to change them (least I didn't) I just jacked up the drivers side, removed the wheel and got them all. I had some wobble head extensions.
got them all changed and car still worked...yea.
The holes for the trailing plugs where really rusty inside. All the plugs looked like RX8Lovah's above. Also think I might have a crack on the outside of the front rotor housing right by the trailing plug hole.
edit:
Also... you don't need to get under the car at all to change them (least I didn't) I just jacked up the drivers side, removed the wheel and got them all. I had some wobble head extensions.
Last edited by Bigbacon; Nov 22, 2010 at 09:19 AM.
I've tried a few combinations of extensions, wobble extensions, and swivel joints. I've concluded that too much wobble isn't necessarily a good thing for "feel" (during both removal and replacement) and a swivel joint is not necessary.
My preferred combination is a 3" extension up front (that's connected to the spark plug socket) and a 10" wobble extension that's connected to the ratchet. To connect the 2 extensions, I prefer using a 3/8" to 3/8" wobble connector. This combination provides just enough angling for clearance while maintaining a "direct" feel without too much "looseness."
My preferred combination is a 3" extension up front (that's connected to the spark plug socket) and a 10" wobble extension that's connected to the ratchet. To connect the 2 extensions, I prefer using a 3/8" to 3/8" wobble connector. This combination provides just enough angling for clearance while maintaining a "direct" feel without too much "looseness."
Last edited by ArXate; Jan 15, 2011 at 12:35 AM.
i just jack her up, talk off the drivers side wheel, lay on the ground or work from the wheel well and hit each spark plug one at a time. it's just a biotch when their tight as *****.... but alil elbow grease will do the trick. lols.
I found using a long extension helped for front leading and trailing plugs.
going to be making good use of this thread soon. checked with my local dealer that i go to frequently due to the stack of free oil change coupons i have and figured i would just get my plugs changed there since it would be nice of me to buy something every once and a while and they quoted my $441 just to change the plugs (parts & labor)
completely insane! that being said, i just bought some plugs & coils and plan on doing it myself to save about $250!
completely insane! that being said, i just bought some plugs & coils and plan on doing it myself to save about $250!
Here's another "thank you" to the folks who started this thread. I read through this thread first, and did the plug change last weekend. It went without a hitch, since I was prepared with a universal joint and my two longest extensions. The second photo shows how useful those tools are
.
I was surprised how ugly the old plugs looked! This is with less than 30K on the odometer. The car definitely idles more smoothly now.
.I was surprised how ugly the old plugs looked! This is with less than 30K on the odometer. The car definitely idles more smoothly now.
I'm changing my plugs this weekend and I'm going to try and index them. Anyone has done this and knows the correct direction for indexing? Does it have to point towards the intake similar to piston engines or is it different because the chambers are sealed and sparks are not open to intake?
I guess I want to know if anyone has played with indexing and has possibly dynoed the result.
I guess I want to know if anyone has played with indexing and has possibly dynoed the result.



