DIY: Replace your Radiator (aftermarket or OEM, both the same)
#26
That nipple on top of the radiator " said7 " is referring to broke off on my radiator. Will I need to replace the whole radiator or does the plastic top and bottom portion come off and can be replaced ?
#27
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Whole radiator my friend... I just broke the EXACT same thing today
#28
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As did mine. Except mine cracked and broke off as soon as I removed the nuts holding the reservoir. I think Im gonna take a pic of my 8 on jackstands (As she sits now) and make it my avatar. It seems that I am running 10:1 working to non working ratio. For every 10 days she works = 1 hour of repairs LOL
#30
4. I'm baffles why anyone would make a radiator with plastic parts. The top nipple on the stock radiator with crack off. It's only a matter of time, especially if you live in hot weather.
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This DIY is going to help me a lot with mine but i cant find a radiator that does not say that it is for a manual i need one for an automatic
#31
its plastic because they know 99% chance ppl gonna break them.
and its cheaper to make compare to pure alumimum(no one use brass any more cuz its heavy)
to remove it without breaking it, all u need is a razor blade. to cut the old stucked hose off instead of trying to pull it off
and its cheaper to make compare to pure alumimum(no one use brass any more cuz its heavy)
to remove it without breaking it, all u need is a razor blade. to cut the old stucked hose off instead of trying to pull it off
#32
That's what happened to mine. I had a code turn up and it said to change the temp. censor, i didn't change it quick enough and caused mine to brake.
This DIY is going to help me a lot with mine but i cant find a radiator that does not say that it is for a manual i need one for an automatic
This DIY is going to help me a lot with mine but i cant find a radiator that does not say that it is for a manual i need one for an automatic
you can use mt rad and get a small oil cooler and mount it somewhere in the front, use ur imagination and it can be done and it should cost less than 100 bux
#33
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I just changed my radiator today and I installed a koyo one but the little top nipple is still plastic but whatever. My question is , when I removed the stock rad transmission fluid came out of the the bottom. So do I have to put more transmission fluid before starting the car up? Because right now I guess you can say I have a "dry" radiator. It's an AT
Last edited by toke_; 01-06-2013 at 02:08 PM.
#35
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just had mine replaced
Replaced it at the local radiator shop.
first shop wanted 120 to replace it but gave up.
Second shop did it for 40 bucks.
nothing wrong with the oem one, just wanted to install the
aluminum one.
Question? how many water hoses?
Auto place sold me 2, ie upper and lower.
was told i needed 3 by the person doing the install.
first shop wanted 120 to replace it but gave up.
Second shop did it for 40 bucks.
nothing wrong with the oem one, just wanted to install the
aluminum one.
Question? how many water hoses?
Auto place sold me 2, ie upper and lower.
was told i needed 3 by the person doing the install.
#37
Thanks for the right up. Just did mine yesterday. also used this:
mazda rx8: how do i replace the radiator in a 2005 mazda - JustAnswer
Duh Remove engine cover.
Remove the battery cover.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the engine coolant.
Remove the following components.
Splash shield
Under cover
Battery and battery box.
Air cleaner component and air cleaner insulator.
PCM duct
Position the coolant reserve tank out of the way.
Disconnect the ATF oil cooler hose, if equipped with A/T (nope).
Remove the following (NOTE: the numbers correspond with the illustration):
1. Connector.
2. Upper radiator hose
3. Lower radiator hose
4. Condenser mounting bolts
5. Bracket
6. Radiator bracket
7. Radiator
8. Cooling fan assembly
(see above link for pic to correspond numbers to)
mazda rx8: how do i replace the radiator in a 2005 mazda - JustAnswer
Duh Remove engine cover.
Remove the battery cover.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the engine coolant.
Remove the following components.
Splash shield
Under cover
Battery and battery box.
Air cleaner component and air cleaner insulator.
PCM duct
Position the coolant reserve tank out of the way.
Disconnect the ATF oil cooler hose, if equipped with A/T (nope).
Remove the following (NOTE: the numbers correspond with the illustration):
1. Connector.
2. Upper radiator hose
3. Lower radiator hose
4. Condenser mounting bolts
5. Bracket
6. Radiator bracket
7. Radiator
8. Cooling fan assembly
(see above link for pic to correspond numbers to)
#38
In the process of doing mine... anyone know the hose part numbers? I have the upper and lower radiator hoses. Just wondering whereto buy the coolant reservoir hoses I order the upper and lower from rockauto.com...
btw I ordered my oem radiator from rockauto for $100 bucks and some change and it was a lot cheaper than anywhere else (autozone, kragen, fast car underparts..etc..)
btw I ordered my oem radiator from rockauto for $100 bucks and some change and it was a lot cheaper than anywhere else (autozone, kragen, fast car underparts..etc..)
#39
I've taken my radiator out before but that was after jacking up the car and pulling it out the the bottum. if I take my front number off can I take it out from the top
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Posted from Rx8club.com App for Android
#41
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Well today I attempted to replace the radiator overflow tank on the wife's car. She has the old style that is faulty; shows the coolant light on the dash. Well silly me... I didn't research enough on the removal of said tank and broke the (*insert any choice word) plastic piece off the top of the radiator. SO now I have to replace the radiator along with the other projects I had!
1) Replace rear rotor Trailing ignition coil
2) Front brakes
3) Rear brakes
4) Oil / Filter change
I feel that the hardest part was the car being on four jack stands. I am getting too old I guess...
Also, there was a total of six pop rivets holding the splash pan on. They were located on the right and left sides. This proved to be very challenging due to not being able to drill out the center which was located on top. I was finally able to get them out but may install a threaded bolt / washer combo something in case I need to access this area in the future.
Removed the battery tray, air box, and splash tray. Zip tied the cooling fans out of the way. I am replacing the old one with a Spectra Premium "OEM" replacement from a local parts house. Tomorrow I will be attempting to squeeze the new one back in.
1) Replace rear rotor Trailing ignition coil
2) Front brakes
3) Rear brakes
4) Oil / Filter change
I feel that the hardest part was the car being on four jack stands. I am getting too old I guess...
Also, there was a total of six pop rivets holding the splash pan on. They were located on the right and left sides. This proved to be very challenging due to not being able to drill out the center which was located on top. I was finally able to get them out but may install a threaded bolt / washer combo something in case I need to access this area in the future.
Removed the battery tray, air box, and splash tray. Zip tied the cooling fans out of the way. I am replacing the old one with a Spectra Premium "OEM" replacement from a local parts house. Tomorrow I will be attempting to squeeze the new one back in.
Last edited by MarioCoastie; 08-17-2013 at 11:48 PM. Reason: Spelling
#43
Radiator upgrade
Anyone have a link to or know where I can buy a better radiator for an 05 RX8? I'd like something thicker than a stock radiator that fits and installs the same, just cools much better. Have no idea where to start
#44
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Digitz,
Go to Google and search BlackHaloRacing
Find the link that says it's BlackHaloRacing.
Click it.
Go to Products and look for the Koyorad.
Had to give easy instructions I'm on my phone and its a PIA to link.
Travis
Go to Google and search BlackHaloRacing
Find the link that says it's BlackHaloRacing.
Click it.
Go to Products and look for the Koyorad.
Had to give easy instructions I'm on my phone and its a PIA to link.
Travis
#46
#48
this definitly got me through the entire processs...except for when taking of the condensor. it was pryed on due to pressure and it popped supper loud and scared the crap out of me!
#49
@nycaps: Thank you for this write up. It made my radiator job go pretty smooth over all. I replaced the under capable stock nylon radiator with a all aluminum dual core radiator for a manual trans and ran a additional cooler for the auto trans. I used 1.5 inch pipe insulator split down the length and glued it to the bottom and sides of the radiator and a piece across the top to make sure i am getting the total capacity of the radiator. Nice write up , thank you.