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DIY: Replace your Radiator (aftermarket or OEM, both the same)

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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 04:54 AM
  #51  
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From: Berlin Germany
Originally Posted by jrose29
Why the insulation on something you want to dissapate heat? Just curious on your thinking.
The insulation goaes around the radiator to make sure the air passes thru it and not around. This is important and makes a huge differences ... also make sure the undertray is not sagging under the radiator .. if it is use zip ties to zip it up.

Greetings
Thomas
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 06:14 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by nycgps
16. After all the brackets come off, you should be able to slid the Radiator out. Notice : You should be very careful, because remember your A/C Condenser still hanging in the air, and your old radiator's top hose connector might come in contact with the back of the A/C condenser, if you apply too much force it might break it. so just be very careful.
17. When the old radiator is out, take the plastic groove from the bottom and top OUT, and install it to your new Radiator. (See Picture, Old radiator and New Radiator) and transfer WHATEVER you can from your old radiator to your new radiator, including all the FAN shrouds, foam on the side, etc.
18. After that, just install everything back in reverse order.

Thats all folks.

Is a bit confusing but .... if you have any ? please just ask me, pm or reply to this post.




Very nice write up!. thank you for doing it because it made mine possible, you rock
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Old Oct 4, 2016 | 06:49 PM
  #53  
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OPL Aftermarket Radiator

If anyone plans to buy the OPL all aluminum radiator. You may want to think again. I ordered one and finally went to swap it, because my stock radiator stem on top deteriorated and crumbled apart. So all metal so I won't have to do it ever again, the only problem with the OPL ones are, the radiator brackets that sit on the two bolts of the car to sit in place on the top side are way to short. I couldn't even fit the nut on the bracket platform because of the edging of the top radiator tank. The picture below is not the OPL one, but to show what brackets I'm talking about. The nut won't fit on the bracket due to the edging. Also the other problem with this is if you notice yourself taking out the stock RX8 one, you'll see the spacing that allows the condenser to sit apart from the radiator. The stock radiator has built on spacers to bolt the condenser on, and the OPL one doesn't, so you'll have to make a trip to the hardware store for some metal or nylon spacers. This way your condenser and radiator are spaced properly. Besides that it's still nice, but for the bracket problem and nut not fitting, I actually had to weld on more metal and make a new hole to fit it on properly. I couldn't get the picture to work right now, but will be up soon shortly.
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Old Jan 29, 2017 | 09:36 PM
  #54  
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Where can I buy a new radiator mines broke on trip and has a leak
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 10:29 AM
  #55  
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From: Colo'freakin'rado
Originally Posted by Froy32
Where can I buy a new radiator mines broke on trip and has a leak
Pick up the CSF one on ebay, it's a dual pass. I've got the single pass Koyo, but had I known I'd have gotten the CSF one.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 11:27 AM
  #56  
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From: RX8Performance.com
Just to clarify the CSF is a dual row not a dual pass radiator.

This is a dual pass:

Ultimate Performance Radiator by RX-8 Performance | RX8Performance.com
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 10:55 PM
  #57  
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I heard a myth that i have yet to find an answer to does the A/T radiator work on the MT with no issue? Buddy of mines top nipple broke off and hes looking into junk yard options of rads but only finds AT versions and we heard the myth and the junk yard guy agreed but you can never trust someone at a junk yard trying to sell you parts
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Old Jul 7, 2017 | 07:38 AM
  #58  
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Why buy a junk yard radiator, when a new one is under $60?

2007 MAZDA RX-8 1.3L R2 Radiator | RockAuto
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Old Jul 7, 2017 | 09:23 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by RxEric
I heard a myth that i have yet to find an answer to does the A/T radiator work on the MT with no issue? Buddy of mines top nipple broke off and hes looking into junk yard options of rads but only finds AT versions and we heard the myth and the junk yard guy agreed but you can never trust someone at a junk yard trying to sell you parts
AT rad will work on MT car, it's just that you will have slightly less coolant holding capacity.
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Old Jul 7, 2017 | 09:30 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by nycgps
AT rad will work on MT car, it's just that you will have slightly less coolant holding capacity.
(I'll have to look at the parts diagram but...) I assume the MT radiator does some cooling of the MT?
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Old Jul 7, 2017 | 10:45 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by wannawankel
(I'll have to look at the parts diagram but...) I assume the MT radiator does some cooling of the MT?
The AT radiator has ATF cooling capacity. The MT radiator does not have that 2nd core.
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Old Jul 7, 2017 | 02:12 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
The AT radiator has ATF cooling capacity. The MT radiator does not have that 2nd core.
So in a sense it has to work twice as hard as the MT Radiator or is it literally just a small difference in fluid capacity because i really dont want to put this in this guys car if hes gunna have to go out and change it soon he bought the rad from a junk yard for 75 and the koyo and mishimoto MT rads are 250+ depending where you look
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Old Jul 7, 2017 | 05:27 PM
  #63  
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AT radiators usually have thicker cores, so the difference is slight.

Why buy a junk yard radiator, when a new one is under $60?

2007 MAZDA RX-8 1.3L R2 Radiator | RockAuto
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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 02:57 PM
  #64  
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If you click the RockAuto link and then the info button for both mt and at radiators you'll see that's not correct; both are listed as 1" core, which is the series 1 OE core width ( Series 2 is approx. 1.375"). Pretty sure the at version just adds a pipe loop in the bottom collection header (after cooling) with an inlet and outlet fitting. So in theory on a mt car it would basically be identical because that little AT pipe loop likely has no impact when it's not being used.



.

Last edited by TeamRX8; Jul 16, 2017 at 03:00 PM.
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Old Sep 15, 2017 | 04:41 PM
  #65  
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Amazon Amazon

Check out this radiator??
Anyone heard of tyc? It looks like the stock one and has the a/c mounting brackets and doesn't have the extra 2 metal nipples on the bottom
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Old Sep 16, 2017 | 09:23 AM
  #66  
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^ You didn't click the Rock Auto link I posted above, did you?
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 10:43 AM
  #67  
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nope, the radiator was a direct match and its all in and working fine
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 03:35 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by RxEric
So in a sense it has to work twice as hard as the MT Radiator or is it literally just a small difference in fluid capacity because i really dont want to put this in this guys car if hes gunna have to go out and change it soon he bought the rad from a junk yard for 75 and the koyo and mishimoto MT rads are 250+ depending where you look
In an emergency I put an AT radiator on my car 7-8 months ago. It wasn't nearly as good as the CSF I have now, but it definitely got the job done without much of an issue.
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Old Jun 2, 2019 | 10:59 PM
  #69  
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$60/hr thats damn near unheard of.

Originally Posted by camilo
Hmm.. I need a new radiator, hoses, therostat, and water pump.. The shop is charging me with atleast 5 hours ($60 hour) = 300 bucks the cheapest..
How long could this take If I did it?
5 hours from the shop sounds about rite $60 an hour is a steal let them do it.
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 02:10 PM
  #70  
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FL Yonaka Dual Core Radiator with Dual Fans

This Radiator seems pretty legit, as far as "other brands" go. I found it for an incredible deal on Andys Autosport. However I cannot find nay reviews or relvant information regarding their application and efficiency in an RX8. Before i take the risk, has anyone ever heard of, used or have any pertinent info regarding this setup? Its a little thicker than the CSF, and .3 thicker than stcok core width. says flows 200& more coolant, but again, they can say anything.

any info is appreciated.

https://www.yonaka.com/2004_2008_Maz...r-rx8-0408.htm
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 08:33 AM
  #71  
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Try it and let us know how it works!
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 08:52 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
Try it and let us know how it works!
Yea, I’ll pass on an experiment and just go with what’s trusted. I was only going to give it a try if someone else already took the plunge. I’ll just order CSF with some FAL420 fans.
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Old Aug 4, 2019 | 07:09 PM
  #73  
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Looking to do this on a Series II, any specific differences?
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 11:55 AM
  #74  
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Not really. Minor variances at best.

As noted above, the S2 radiator is slightly wider than the S1. So be sure at get one with the correct width. Probably doesn’t matter as far as R&R goes, but the car will be less likely to have cooling issues with the larger capacity. The S2 radiator appears to be a direct fit on an S1. One of the shroud bolts at the top won’t line up, but it doesn’t hurt anything to leave it off.

I only say “should” be a direct fit because I didn’t have all the stuff at the front that comes from the factory; the intake and tray, the battery, etc. also built and used a different fan/shroud setup for my racing purposes. I did test fit the S1 fan shroud to it and it does mount exactly the same in the S1. Being only 3/8” wider I’d expect the S2 radiator to fit, even if might take making some minor adjustments. There are wider S1 replacement radiators that fit fine.

Last edited by TeamRX8; Aug 5, 2019 at 12:06 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 07:16 AM
  #75  
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Thank you !!

Just want to say "THANK YOU" .. like many others here, have already.

I'm a YouTube learner. Usually. Every video that I found, made it too complicated to even have the video on standby .. let alone, attempt to do as they instructed.

Take everything apart, bumper included .. in lieu of the brief instruction that you showed here.

I will say, I couldn't get the pictures blown up .. for some reason. Just black screen when clicking. I 'm using a tablet. BUT your post was so well written .. that's all I needed, anyway.

One 58,000 mile original Anniversary 2008 MT RX8 has returned to the street. Well .. almost anyway. I have to hunt for one missing lower middle plastic panel bolt, & purchase new plastic push rivets, & plastic screw/push fasteners.

With the exception, of the new aluminum KOYO radiator .. you can't even tell it was apart. Even gave me a chance to wash underneath all the removed parts. Yeahhh' .. maybe a little ****, but the car is so clean .. no harm in being cleaner.

One casualty was the fender side ECU bolt nursery dropped out. So next weekend's search is ECU removal to re-insert & bond that nursert back. Hope there is a post on this forum for that. Can't have an empty bolt hole. I love original cars !! I won't be the dumb*ss to change it.

Thanks again !!!!! I so appreciate it !!

Last edited by kidcampbell71; Aug 31, 2020 at 07:22 AM.
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