ToM18nY

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the great write up. The video was very helpful. Instead of re-installing the stock ssv I decided to install the upgraded version. The job took me a little under 4 hours to complete and I didn't run into any problems along the way.

Thanks again Jon, if you ever find yourself in nyc I owe you a drink.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Upgrade!?!?
Oh dewd you can't say that and not explain some details.

You're killing me man.

Please explain what an upgraded SSV is ... it's the first I've heard of it.

What is upgraded?

details details please :D

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I'm in Binghamton, NY right now... but no plans on going to NYC at the moment.
Good to hear you got it done trouble free!

ToM18nY

iTrader: (3)

The upgraded ssv is mentioned in the first post of this thread. It comes with a new solenoid and a new impact switch, also if I'm not mistaken the bushing was also redesigned.

Here are the part numbers

N3H5-20-160F - SSV Valve
9979-60-640 - Longer Bolt
N3H4-20-155A - SSV Gasket

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Cool thanks.

I've read this thread before and I'll be damned if I can remember anything about an upgraded version. Huh well look at me with the newb shoes on.

How much did it cost?

takahashi j

iTrader: (2)

http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/prod...2d160F%29.html

comebackqid

iTrader: (13)

yea i just got mine today from montgomery mazda 255.73 all 3 parts shipped. it is built much better. my only question now is if there is a way to remove the SSV valve with out removing the thermostat housing not worried about the air pump/acv hard pipe thing whatever it is it only takes 2 bolts I just dont feel like draining some coolant and removing air pump etc. does anyone know if it can be done?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Do you think I threw that step in there to make people do unnecessary work?
If you kept the thermostat in place, the SSV can not slide out completely from the LIM because the thermostat will be in the way.
Before writing the DIY, I tried various ways to make removal as easy as possible... including removal of the valve without touching the thermostat.
"Extra" steps like removing the air pump was something I felt made future steps easier with it out of the way, so that's why some steps may seem unnecessary.
But again, if there was a way to avoid removing the thermostat, I would have used it.
Feel free to try when you get in there... but I didn't have any luck.

comebackqid

iTrader: (13)

Okay thanks, I removed it before for cleaning following the video this is the 2nd time now (removing the SSV valve) I'm just replacing it with the updated version(still had issues after fixing.) I'll let you know if I have any luck.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Please explain how it is built better when you dont even have the other one out yet? My original one was not that dirty and some solvent cleaned it up like new. Never have had any issue with it, just pulled it as a maintenance check. Seems to me that you wasted almost $300

Razz1

Man.. I wish I could wrench that fast. The I'd have it done in 5 minutes.

stingray65

I did this repair a couple years ago in response to a CEL that wouldn't go out and which came up right at the time the car needed to pass inspection. At the time, the dealer wanted almost $3000 to fix the SSV (which supposedly included a new intake manifold--I'm assuming this was their effort to exploit this opportunity to correct their design flaw and make some bucks in the process). Obviously I wasn't going to spend that kind of money. I had read of people going to the trouble of taking the thing out, cleaning it, putting it back in, putting everything back together and later realizing something else was impacting the problem. I've certainly been in troubleshooting situations like that, but in this case, since I didn't have a lot of free time I wanted it to be right the first time. Given the $3000, $300 seemed like a 'reasonable' tradeoff to minimize the potential of having to deal with it again. Of course I did clean out the buildup in the manifold. Once the new SSV went in the CEL went off.

I realize for some the principle of spending money on anything more than the precise cause of the problem would be a sacrilege. In my particular case I felt it made the most sense. The actuator on my original SSV seemed kind of weak, but I didn't have the means to test it, so a replacement took care of that concern.

The replacement part has a bigger actuator. I assume Mazda 'beefed it up' in an effort to create more torque against the potential resistance caused by the gumming up. Only problem I encountered was that given the redesign of the valve, one of the flanges, I think what ends up being the upper one when the SSV is reinstalled, is about twice as thick as the original, as I recall. So, the original bolt on that side wasn't long enough and the local dealer I got it from didn't give me the bolt. Had to make a last minute dash to the auto parts store on Sunday afternoon to get that.

stingray65

Been a while since I looked at it, but I remember now... There's an arm/bracket that supports the actuator, right? On the original unit it used one of the mounting bolts to secure it in place. On the new unit the area around that flange the bolt passes through is thicker and the arm is attached directly to that.

ASH8

Correct..

Upper alloy area is 10 mm thicker and upper mounting bolt (10 mm longer), this factory change on later units...from April 18, 2007 production.

See TSB, "MIL on P2070 SET"
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...98&postcount=8

comebackqid

iTrader: (13)

Here are some pics of the old SSV valve and the _new_ SSV valve.

What do you guys think?

comebackqid

iTrader: (13)

oh yea and jon it is absolutely impossible to pull that thing out without removing the housing I tried for about 10 mins then gave up LOL.

RX8inSTL

iTrader: (7)

So my car was starting to lose power everyonce in a while the loss was between 3250-6500rpm. After 6500 the car started to pick back up power like normal. I ran my codes and found a p0661 code.

I then proceeded to check my SSV Solenoid and both others. All 3 solenoids work properly and also the valves move very freely. No oil build up at all really. I did not test them with vacumn to make sure that they hold because I didnt have the tools to do it and needed to get the car back together.

I cleaned the terminals on all of the solenoids with alchohol and put it all back together. I still am having the same power loss in the same RPM range. The car just kinda falls flat for a short time and then picks back up. Would it be worth pulling it all back off to check to make sure the actuators hold vacumn pressure? Or is there possibly another thing I should be looking at?

Possibly a cat that is starting to clog?

LytHka

iTrader: (4)

Did this today as well. This is what mine looked like with 150k miles on it. It's binding now that I have it back in, I'm pretty sure I bent it trying to get it out, I mean it was stuck in there pretty good..

Gonna try the hammer method to try and straighten it out. If it doesn't work I'm just going to buy the updated one... not sure what else I can do

RX8inSTL

iTrader: (7)

So I bought a vacumn tester today to check to see if the valve holds vacuum and it seems like it did. Once it got to about 7hg it was fully extended. And it stayed in that location. Ive also checked all 3 solenoids and they all checked out okay. Cleaned the contacts on those as well with alchohol. Everything seems to be hooked up correctly too. The vavle itself is perfectly clean and moves with no resistance.

The problem just started happening randomly about a month ago and now it is constant. Does anyone know what I should check next? Could it be the actual harness that connects to the solenoid? Could the actuator hold pressure but still not actually be working?

RX8inSTL

iTrader: (7)

Should the SSV open up when the car is in nuetral and you rev past the 3250 mark?

LytHka

iTrader: (4)

Ok I did this and now my car won't idle and I'm not sure why. Checked all the vacuum lines, did the 20 stomp reset, cleaned the MAF, nothing really helped.

It just doesn't want to idle. It CAN idle but when it gets warm and I'm coming to a stop it just... dies. The tach doesn't even try to catch, it goes straight to 0.

Any ideas?

It's not coils, I have the BHR coils, plugs are fairly new, plus it was working right before I cleaned the valve.

Could the throttle body cleaner that dripped down into the engine have caused low compression? I mean it caused a pretty big backfire when I first started my car...

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

That's exactly what my car was doing when the valve wasn't opening.

I hate to say it, but you need to tear it down and verify that the valve is opening with a hand pump. It sounds like it might be mis-aligned or something.

LytHka

iTrader: (4)

Hmm well I just reached down there and actuated it with my hand and it slides really easily cause it's ******* spotless in there.

Do you think there might be a hole in the diaphragm or something? My car wasn't doing this before I took the valve out and I don't THINK I broke it, but I guess there's only one way to find out.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Well, if the valve moves freely by hand, than the problem has to be in the vac line or solenoids.

LytHka

iTrader: (4)

I'm going to go ahead and order the MityVac hand pump and test the actuator. I'm also going to pull and test the solenoid and clean the connections.

If it fails I'm just going to swap the solenoid for the air pump since I've got the Racing Beat air pump delete plate on the way from Mazmart. My engine bay is going to look so much cleaner with the air pump, ACV and hard pipe gone.

And if it's the SSV actuator I guess I'll just have to take my whole car apart and put a new one in!