Silver_Surfer

Just finished my SSV, ESS, TB, MAFS cleanning and thermostat replacment. et 8hrs

Caveman, no binding but I was constantly checking the alignment when installing. Did you have a hard time removing the SSV? Did you remove the hard pipe from the ACV? I kinda thinking somthing may have gotten damaged comming apart or going back together.

Hope you dont have to take it apart again and it doesn't cost you $$$

Jon, thanks for the vid!

atl8

iTrader: (1)

Does this picture show the actuator arm in it's default position with no vacuum applied? So mine should be sitting like this with engine off?

Z0oMzo0m

iTrader: (4)

yeah that looks right

ASH8

Funny how the North American market has Sensors (and DTC) for SSV and VDI, where the rest of the world they (Sensors, DTC) are deleted.

> MAO <

Yeah I just noticed it O_o...

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

The VDI on our manifolds have threads tapped to install an impact switch, but for some reason a switch isn't mounted.
Can't recall if an 06+ model does, but I know an 04-05 doesn't.

ASH8

Sorry Jon, My bad, VDI on does not have the Sensor...Only SSV.

But, Series 2 has two Sensors that mount on Intake Manifold above each APV, this is only for the North American S2.

Mazda call them "Crankshaft Position Sensor"??? they are NA S2 specific part N3R4-18-221A...to me they are not "Crankshaft Position, but sensors for APV Position.??

maffatato15

just pulled out my ssv today. I had a code pop on two times a year ago and it never came back. Pulled out the ssv and it was covered in gunk. Was a pain to pull out the valve because of the carbon\oil. Did the job in about 3 hours and the car is running like a champ. Thanks again for the write up!

Targatheory

While we're at it. Let's all share our tips on how to actually clean this SSV of ours. So far, I'm making do with Seafoam Deep Creep and a cheap nylong/brass/steel brush set. What did you guys use?

Pizza Man

Just wanted to take a quick moment to say thanks to all of you who contributed to this post... the information on this site in invaluable!

Here's what my SSV looked like when I pulled it out... and then after I was done cleaning it.

It took me one-and-a-half cans of TB/Air Intake Cleaner to get all that SH*T off!

As you can see, while cleaning the SSV, I had secured the Actuator to the SSV with a pull-tight fastener. This eliminated the Actuator's vacuum chamber from swinging freely and helps to prevent potential and unneccessary damage.

This was definitely a DIRTY and EYE-OPENING experience... (spraying that gunked-up SSV Valve and seeing the COLD BROWN sludge-liquid splash off of the valve.) Mazda seems to have designed this car without the DIY Mechanic in mind... it's a good thing for me that I have rather smaller arms and dexterity skills like a *****.

Sometimes you have to settle for being able to turn a wrench just 1/5 of the way. Or less...



Don't even get me started about that bolt holding the UIM, you know... the one near the passenger side firewall... (I got just the trick for that one.)

Pizza Man

Nah man. Let the liquid do the cleaning for you. Honestly, just buy Two cans of...

It's gonna be labeled something like

"Carburetor and Air Intake Cleaner"

or

"Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner"

These cans have some Alcoholic Mixture that really blasts through the Oil/Gunk. Just some light brushing suffices. Be VERY LIBERAL with the cleaner... mine was pretty bad, I can't imagine one that required three cans.

Be sure to use the long skinny nozzle attatchment which concentrates the flow into a sharp blasting stream that penetrates that nasty gunky build up.

I swear it's the best way.

It dries quickly too, and since this is an intake part, you do not want it do be lubricated, per se. You may want to spray some type of lubrication onto the geared moving parts of the Valve, where it connects to the Actuator.

Before spraying the SSV, it's a good idea to somehow protect the electrical connector attatched to the SSV. I used a piece of a plastic bag and some tape. It's also a good idea to prevent the Actuator from swinging around too much, I secured mine in place with a pull-tight fastener. Just make sure you don't pull it so tight that you can't slip a pair of scissors through to cut it off.

Pizza Man

Unless you have super finess and you remove the hard pipe for the ACV, you WILL bend the SSV gasket when removing the Valve. I did. So I would say about 90% of the time you'll need to get a new SSV Gasket before re-assembly.

I bought a new ACV Gasket because my old one was a little rusty... You just gotta use good judgment. My Thermostat housing Gasket was fine to re-use.

$15.53
SSV Gasket Part No. N3H4-20-1555A

$10.77
Air Control Valve (ACV) Gasket Part No. N3H1-13-996




Can anybody take some time to perhaps give me some help with an issue I'm having... See my help thread ----> https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...45#post4203245

Also, I need a new starter because I fried mine while trying to deflood. I removed old plugs, cranked engine with fuel pump fuse removed to purge gasoline, put new plugs in and just and when I go to restart it it doesn't even try to crank. It just clicks. It's like a test of faith with this car. You just gotta keep working to keep your love alive. (This happened today. 03/02/2012)

Wind Dance

iTrader: (7)

Tried this today after hours of labor while putting the SSV back I was tightening the longer bolt on the top of the ssv and it snaped. Funny thing it wasn't like I was way over tightening. Damn i guess ill be going to the dealer to see if they can extract the bolt...

I used brake cleaner on it and the gunk came off in less than one can of CRC

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Doh, My biggest fear is snapping bolts off like that ....

I'm starting a bit of a tear down / rebuild this week and the SSV is one of the items on my list.
I will keep this bolt in mind.

Wind Dance

iTrader: (7)

Yea, specially small screws like those are hard to use extractors on.

Pizza Man

I remember when going to tighten that bolt it never seemed to want to give much resistance, even after the head was plenty flush with the intake manifold. I didn't want to snap it so I stopped after using my best judgment.

It would be nice if someone had the TORQUE SPECS on these bolts...?

Wind Dance

iTrader: (7)

I just finger tighten then added a little more with my socket..

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

pulled and cleaned my SSV tonight, been two years since the last time I looked at it, just had some light varnish on it

Used WD40 and a soft bristle toothbrush for about 20 minutes, then swirled it around in some solvent and it was as clean as new

guess I must be using the wrong weight motor oil and otherwise doing it wrong in general


.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I would actually recommend letting it soak in MEK solvent rather than use carb cleaner. It is pretty bad stuff though. Make sure you have good chemical gloves (not the doctor type gloves, it will eat through those and absorb straight through your skin into your body), very good ventilation, and no open flames or sparks. I will do this next time rather than scrub on it first. What varnish was remaining just fell right off when I dipped the SSV in and swirled it around some. It needs to be properly disposed of too. I usually just dump it in with my used motor oil for recycling.

willnordacgreen1211

iTrader: (3)

is it a good idea to clean or atleast wipe down the port the ssv itself is mounted in?

maxchao

iTrader: (2)

Hmm I got to this tread from another one talking about the Marble in Can sound at high rpm. My car does that some time, like one out of 10 times I try to redline it.

The other day my car stalled for no reason at a stop light. I own the car for a year and it only did that one time. The idle moves a little at high heat with AC, but nothing I would have notice unless I am paying attention.

Also the other day after a very tough autocross run a P0171 light came on. I erased it and it never came back again.

Not sure if those have anything with the SSV....The Marble in Can sound sounds a little scary so I want to see if I am at the right thread for the fix.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

The 1st post in the thread was designed to help anyone who feels they have an SSV related issue and how to verify it.
But if I was a betting man, based on what you said thus far, I would say you're in the wrong thread.

maxchao

iTrader: (2)

Yea not sure how I got to this thread. I guess if there is no CEL then the valve is at least still operating. I will test the valve in the car nonetheless. I think I read somewhere says the Marble in Can sound is the valve chattering trying to keep vaccum, or the other way around.

I will keep on reading.

By the way, How does one know what each of these intake valves do? I realize the more expensive a car I buy the more these intake valves are in the car, and I have a feeling they are starting to run out of names to name them.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Because I feel generous today... taken from a training module:

At engine speeds below 3250 rpm, air flows through the primary intake ports only. This keeps the intake air velocity high.
At the lower end of the primary intake tubes near the ports, high velocity air discharges from the Port Air Bleeds. This is the Jet Air Fuel Mixing system. The air discharge is caused by the pressure differential between the upper end of the primary air intake and the port air bleeds. This high velocity airflow blows fuel off port surfaces and increases turbulence. Atomization is improved and the mixture distribution is optimized. Atomized fuel is directed toward the ports and away from surfaces for the Anti-Wet Port effect.

SSV- Above 3250 rpm, and when engine load is great enough, the Secondary Shutter Valve opens to permit airflow through secondary intake passages. The engine is now using two intake pipes and two intake ports per rotor. This reduces restriction and increases airflow and torque. The Secondary Shutter Valve is controlled by a vacuum control solenoid.

VFAD- Above 5500 rpm, the Variable Fresh Air Duct opens to add another intake air path. When open, the VFAD doubles the amount of air available to the engine and reduces restriction. The VFAD is controlled by a vacuum actuator. It is not open at all times because noise is also increased.

APV- Above 6250 rpm, the Auxiliary Port Valve opens the third or auxiliary intake port for additional airflow. All six ports are now used to increase horsepower and torque. The Auxiliary Port Valve is controlled by an electric motor through gears, a rack and linkage. The valve cycles each time the ignition is turned off to clear carbon.

VDI- The High Power RENESIS Rotary Engine takes advantage of pressure waves in the incoming air to boost charging. This increases torque and power at higher engine speeds. At engine speeds above 7250 rpm, the Variable Dynamic Effect Intake Valve opens to shorten the effective length of the intake tubes. Intake pressure pulses reflecting back and forth in the intake manifold tubes force more intake charge through the ports and into the chamber.

maxchao

iTrader: (2)

This Is Too Nice!! I feel like having a feast.

These are some pretty amazing engineering. I always think intake/exhaust are pretty symmetrical design, but I guess there are much more go into the intake than the exhaust.

The more I read about cars the more I realize I don't know...(Well it goes for most other stuffs as well)

Very interesting read. Thanks a lot!