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DIY: make your brake sharper

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Old 11-03-2021, 05:04 PM
  #26  
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dannobre, time for us to walk away. Our points have been proven, not much of anything else we can contribute at this point.
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Old 11-03-2021, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by motodenta
The brake switch pushrod length could be adjusted by pulling that white part towards the sockets while you push/pull the pushrod in or out.
I learnt it while I was messing around for course control retrofitting on the UK models as there are an extra couple of pins to be connected to ECU.

So, use a small flat head screwdriver, put it in the hole and push all the way towards the socket, then push in or pull out the pushrod.
Release the screwdriver.
Done.
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Old 11-03-2021, 08:23 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Ricky SE3P


dannobre, time for us to walk away. Our points have been proven, not much of anything else we can contribute at this point.
Better to keep your $0.02 for yourself to be $0.02 richer buddy. And yes better to run away as you (you not others) don't have point than to talk. Your pints are those two zero on your $0.02 loll

Firstly you didn't have any point to start with and secondly whatever you said is a kid Halloween story thirdly when you are short on the matter of fact talking like this and trying to bully.
Go to comment and read them all, there is no single fact other than my comments trying to explain the basic law of physics.
Put your r$0.02 into CAD degree as 0 could be something in the digital world.
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Old 11-03-2021, 11:38 PM
  #29  
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I guess you have never had brake failure and fire from using lube like that in a caliper rebuild. Look up the temp that it catches on fire and then decide if you want to use it.

I guess for a low temp hydraulic or brake system you might get away with it... and it looks like Castrol says it works in most automotive braking systems. Especially 1960 British cars with Girling brakes which are really impressive.

I have rebuilt my rear stock brakes 2x a year since I started tracking the car to the limit.
I don't even put the dust boots on anymore because they only last about a day before they melt off....

Try your next rebuild using brake fluid for an assembly lubricant. They go together easily and you don't have to worry at all about the lube

As for the front brakes... they were replaced a long time ago as they can't keep up to the heat in extended tracking. No more stock dust seals and a lot more heat capacity makes for much better pedal feel.
Pad selection race lines and brake cooling will make much more of a difference than a slight change in the pedal pressure from what you call no change in the lever angle and length

Now as a MOD I am going to give you a suggestion to get along in here better.

Leave the ego at home. Try and read criticism with the intent to possibly learn something... and leave the personal digs and comments out of your replies

Otherwise there are repercussions for personal attacks that will become apparent if it continues

I am closing this thread as you have had your run and this is going nowhere

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