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Yep, I saw your picture. Are you talking about where the ring-gear meets the flywheel?
Start with your finger at the teeth coming towards the center. the first lip where the pressure plate mounts. On one side of the flywheel the lip in thinner then the other side. Like the edge of the sticker. where my sticker meets the resurfaced shiny part that lip is thinker on one side to the other.
Working on replacing my clutch and flywheel but I'm stuck pretty early in the process. One of the bolts on the front cross member just behind the engine is stuck for me. Tried a bunch of different things to get it out to now avail.
Wanted to know if you guys thought the transmission could be dropped and the clutch and flywheel replaced with this cross member left on the car?
I tried doing a quick search and couldn't find anything regarding the types of grease/oil to reapply to the ends of the driveshaft, and shift lever.
I have an mzk1002 I'm planning on installing today which comes with a small packet of lubricant though I'm pretty sure it's for the bearings, not sure if it's meant for both or more. Also I plan on putting blue threadlocker on the big nut and the 6 clutch cover bolts.
If anyone sees issue with that please let me know, thanks.
I tried doing a quick search and couldn't find anything regarding the types of grease/oil to reapply to the ends of the driveshaft, and shift lever...
Any grease that’s suitable for bearings will do. For stuff like the lower shifter bushing and ball pivot I like to keep a tub of Lucas “Red N Tacky” handy but again, any will do. If you’re talking about the splines of the transmission end of the driveshaft, just a light coating is plenty. I doubt there’s much movement. If it’s like the FD RX7 I usually recommend changing the rear transmission seal. They’re cheap and it’s a 5 minute job...or less.
Just a bit on the pilot bearing is good too...but not too much or hydraulic pressure will resist the input shaft.
Any grease that’s suitable for bearings will do. For stuff like the lower shifter bushing and ball pivot I like to keep a tub of Lucas “Red N Tacky” handy but again, any will do. If you’re talking about the splines of the transmission end of the driveshaft, just a light coating is plenty. I doubt there’s much movement. If it’s like the FD RX7 I usually recommend changing the rear transmission seal. They’re cheap and it’s a 5 minute job...or less.
Just a bit on the pilot bearing is good too...but not too much or hydraulic pressure will resist the input shaft.
Heading to the store now. Thanks for all the advice. I think I'll use the kit's included grease for the bearings and see what the automotive store offers for the ball joint, hopefully red n tacky. What kind of grease/oil goes on the end of the drive shaft, it seems really wet compared to the shift lever ball joint?
If they don't have red n tacky any grease will work right
right?
Either one. It’s really not that critical.
R & T is just decent general purpose grease. A bit on the splines, just a bit on the pilot bearing and you’re good. You can go a little heavier on the shifter bushing and ball pivot before drowning it in the gear oil.
Thanks, I would've liked to have the flywheel resurfaced, followed by applying lube and reassembling everything, today but unfortunately the flywheel hasn't come off.
Maybe I'm reading too much into it online but I keep hearing everything from hit it with a steel sledge on the edge to never pry or hammer it. I don't have the puller but would like to try and get it off tomorrow, just how gentle do I have to be with a rubber mallet or steel sledge? I know to hit it on the side between the studs and bolt holes but not the teeth.
I'm considering temporarily re-bolting the clutch cover to the flywheel then smacking on it with a sledge while someone else pries on the other side of the flywheel. I'd hate to damage the mating surface even though it is going to be resurfaced.
Thoughts on using this with a block of wood/flat piece of metal and the long transmission bolts? they happen to thread in the flywheel nicely. I'd assume it should apply pulling force on the flywheel and evenly press on the nut/eshaft to pull them apart. I was cautious in giving it a few more taps and really don't want to mess up with a metal hammer as the rubber mallet was going nowhere lol.
Last edited by limitlesscodes; 03-27-2020 at 03:11 AM.
DO NOT use a steel hammer directly against any surface of the flywheel. And DO NOT reattach the pressure plate and strike it.
And yes, a rubber mallet would be no use.
My personal recommendations on removing the FW were covered earlier in this thread....Loosen the flywheel nut but leave it on by a few threads and use a LARGE hammer and a block of wood or a large plastic dead-blow hammer.
a dry lube is better for the input shaft splines imo, don’t put anything on the clutch disc splines
Agree. Or nothing at all. I’ve got a small brass brush that I like to use to make sure the input splines are nice and clean and it’ll go in easy. Then just install dry...hopefully he has a clutch alignment tool.
OP...it might just be a “feel good” thing but once the FW is off you can re-torque the tension bolts per the order set out in the Factory Service Manual. If you don’t have a torque wrench I think most chain parts stores will rent them free with a refundable deposit. So the cost is $0.
The harbor freight puller slots are about 1/4 inch to narrow .
About to get out the angle grinder. Is it possible to hear up the flywheel without damaging the eshaft or anything.
The puller you linked to was for a steering wheel, not for a FW.
What have you tried? Honestly I’ve done many of these and it’s never taken more than a few minutes. And you’d be the first afaik to try to cut a FW off. Really doubt it could be done without damaging the eshaft.
I don't intend to be the first to cut off a flywheel, definitely could've been clearer. I was just going to extend out the slots on the steering wheel puller. As I said it's sadly only 1/4 inch short on the slots.
So far I've tried smacking it with a dense rubber mallet on the edge, putting the clutch cover back on and smacking it a bit with a steel hammer(not very hard). I've also tried hitting it a bit with a steel hammer trough a small block of wood on the edge of the flywheel. I guess I am either unlucky or something, the car is 15 years old on what I presume is the original flywheel etc. Not that many miles on the car and nearly no rust so not sure why it's so hard.
I'm nervous to smack it hard because I read somewhere something about damaging bearings or seals by hitting it somewhere.
Would a torch help if I hear up the flywheel? Note I plan on reusing at for now lol.
Used a torch for about 2-3 min and smacked it with a sledge (through a block of wood). Piece of cake, note to future people use a torch, just don't overheat it for a super long time as you may heat up the shaft and the seal.
hitting it with a hammer is a great way to screw up the thrust bearing on the front end of the e-shaft since it’s a flat disc needle type; just like a wheel bearing, it will create indentions from the rollers into the flat surface it runs on
if I’m not mistaken it has one or two threaded holes that you just thread a bolt into and then crank down to pop it off. Never took an OE flywheel off myself, but could have sworn I saw that somewhere
hitting it with a hammer is a great way to screw up the thrust bearing on the front end of the e-shaft since it’s a flat disc needle type; just like a wheel bearing, it will create indentions from the rollers into the flat surface it runs on
if I’m not mistaken it has one or two threaded holes that you just thread a bolt into and then crank down to pop it off. Never took an OE flywheel off myself, but could have sworn I saw that somewhere
I tried to look into using those two bolts to remove the flywheel, hence trying a wheel puller, but after reviewing diagrams and test fitting just a bolt it pushes a small amount of the surface area from the bolt on the edge of the gear, or whatever parts 18 is in the diagram I attached.
I got it out now so we'll see if any damage was done when I put the transmission back together and drive it. I tried not to hit it too hard, honestly wish I would've used more heat and less force, heating the flywheel and avoiding the shaft should do less harm than impacting what is essentially the crankshaft.
Last edited by limitlesscodes; 03-27-2020 at 11:17 PM.
Does it just pop out with common tools? obviously will need to avoid scratching the eshaft.
Also I'd assume oil would need to be drained to remove the seal?
yes it just pops out.
yes, take care around the eshaft but it’s not a difficult job
A thin film of oil on the mating surface and then I place the old seal on top of the new to gently tap it in until it’s flush with the rear plate.
no, you don’t have to drain oil, though it might dribble just a little.
Unless you hit directly into the center of the FW or the end of the eshaft it’s not likely the thrust bearing cared.
don’t be silly, if you know anything at all about a rotary engine then you understand that if you hit it anywhere the e-shaft is going forward into the thrust bearing, especially when you hit it hard enough to matter and force the situation.
so I was probably wrong about using a bolt in the threaded holes, those appear to be to mount the factory puller, which only costs $45 new and should pop it off easily using just a wrench; no drama, frustration, or potential damage. If somebody bought one and then offered it for sale it and then so on, it could just be passed around by people who need it at minimal cost
06-12-2017, 08:56 PM
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