DIY: Flywheel/Clutch Removal and Replacement
10-14-2013, 07:36 PM
#76
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well guys.....
It works!!! maybe even better than new i ended up ordering new starter cause mine sucked but jus took it on first drive no lights no smell and smoother shifts than the day i bought it with 52 miles on it =) used amsoil manual transs 75-90.
thank you everyone!!!
It works!!! maybe even better than new i ended up ordering new starter cause mine sucked but jus took it on first drive no lights no smell and smoother shifts than the day i bought it with 52 miles on it =) used amsoil manual transs 75-90.
thank you everyone!!!
10-23-2013, 02:19 PM
#77
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...When you get the new bearing and seal in, and grease them, it will create a very tight seal when you put the clutch alignment tool in. You will hear a pop when you pull it out. This pop can actually unseat one of the freaking stupid @$$ little bearings so that when you mount the transmission, it will go in all but the last half an inch or so... The fix is to drill a hole in the end of the tool, and the side, so that air can flow. It can also help if you trim the end of the tool a little so that you get as much of the teeth as possible engaged on the clutch to get the alignment the best it can be.
No, "the fix" is not to over-grease the bearing in the first place. If it's too much to get the alignment tool to seat fully without drilling holes , then it's too much for the input shaft to seat fully. With an intact dust seal, the bearing shouldn't need alot of grease. Just a little prior to installation is all it needs.
11-23-2013, 05:48 PM
#78
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Hey guys. I just changed my clutch following this guide, and tried to start it up, but had an interesting noise come about. I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and seal, and resurfaced the flywheel.
When I tried to crank it up for the first time, the clutch pedal went straight to the floor, no pressure, and didn't come back up. After a few more times of pulling it up and pressing it, pressure slowly built, but was no where near the way it was before the install. I cranked it, and heard a randomly timed knocking sound that got louder if I pressed the clutch in. I turned the car off in fear of damaging something.
So, does anyone have a remote clue what this could be? Thanks for the help guys.
When I tried to crank it up for the first time, the clutch pedal went straight to the floor, no pressure, and didn't come back up. After a few more times of pulling it up and pressing it, pressure slowly built, but was no where near the way it was before the install. I cranked it, and heard a randomly timed knocking sound that got louder if I pressed the clutch in. I turned the car off in fear of damaging something.
So, does anyone have a remote clue what this could be? Thanks for the help guys.
11-24-2013, 04:59 PM
#80
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Update. Went back today to look a few things over. The car now won't crank. It's acting like it wants to crank, but it's not firing. Not sure if the engine is flooded, since we turned the car off about 10 seconds yesterday after the noise started. So I tried the deflooding procedure, but still nothing. I decided to stop once I noticed the CEL was blinking. Plugged my code reader up to it, but it read no codes. Do I need a special reader? Any idea on what's happening now?
11-25-2013, 04:04 PM
#82
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Not to question your answer, just clearing things up here. But, if it was misfiring, shouldn't I get the code for it? I've plugged up a reader and it shows no codes. I put the BHR coils and new wires on around 10k miles ago, do I need to replace them or just check the plugs? Plugs have a good bit more miles on them.
12-06-2013, 08:52 AM
#83
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Great post really helpful.
I have a snag. Down here in Cornwall things rust very quickly. The four bolts on the prop shaft diff end are seized solid. Even the air gun won't budge them.
Need another solution the diff has swung back sliding the prop out the gear box by 1 1/2" 2" is this enough movement to get the box out and tackle prop later ?
I have a snag. Down here in Cornwall things rust very quickly. The four bolts on the prop shaft diff end are seized solid. Even the air gun won't budge them.
Need another solution the diff has swung back sliding the prop out the gear box by 1 1/2" 2" is this enough movement to get the box out and tackle prop later ?
12-06-2013, 11:30 AM
#85
Great post really helpful.
I have a snag. Down here in Cornwall things rust very quickly. The four bolts on the prop shaft diff end are seized solid. Even the air gun won't budge them.
Need another solution the diff has swung back sliding the prop out the gear box by 1 1/2" 2" is this enough movement to get the box out and tackle prop later ?
I have a snag. Down here in Cornwall things rust very quickly. The four bolts on the prop shaft diff end are seized solid. Even the air gun won't budge them.
Need another solution the diff has swung back sliding the prop out the gear box by 1 1/2" 2" is this enough movement to get the box out and tackle prop later ?
If that does not work you will need to drill them and replace them.
12-06-2013, 01:55 PM
#86
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Looking back front under the car the prop at the back has 4nuts facing the front of the car 14mm these are the ones I'm trying to remove.the are the right ones ??
Thanks for the reply
Thanks for the reply
Last edited by rex88; 12-06-2013 at 02:10 PM.
12-14-2013, 07:04 PM
#87
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Those are the ones. I just spent 6.5 hours today taking mine all apart. Let me say this: Dropping the tranny out of an RX-8 is harder than a 2nd gen RX-7. I was pretty disappointed that I didn't finish the clutch job today, but in hindsight the fact that I didn't break anything or resort to any Mickey Mouse crap as a hail Mary is a victory. I had use of a lift and all the tools I could possibly need, and it still sucked butt. At least putting it all back together will be easier, except the tranny itself.
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12-15-2013, 04:32 AM
#88
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I done it eventually went and got a 3/4" air gun the didn't say no to that.
Found the rest of it fairly easy just that one snag.
The reason for taking it off wasn't a clutch problem but the selection shaft in the gear box, found the bolt inside the gear had come loose.
53 plate 70k £750 we paid from a scrap yard. All working fine now and even went to the length of putting a s/s exhaust on it
Found the rest of it fairly easy just that one snag.
The reason for taking it off wasn't a clutch problem but the selection shaft in the gear box, found the bolt inside the gear had come loose.
53 plate 70k £750 we paid from a scrap yard. All working fine now and even went to the length of putting a s/s exhaust on it
Last edited by rex88; 12-15-2013 at 04:38 AM.
12-18-2013, 05:02 PM
#89
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Question about aligning the PPF. I had incomplete instructions, and am awaiting 1 new nut for one that had bad threads. After getting the proper alignment and torquing 8 of the 9 nuts/bolts, the PPF drooped down a bit when lowering my transmission jack. Could this cause the transmission to not go into gear when the engine is running?
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10-13-2014, 01:16 PM
#92
Question about aligning the PPF. I had incomplete instructions, and am awaiting 1 new nut for one that had bad threads. After getting the proper alignment and torquing 8 of the 9 nuts/bolts, the PPF drooped down a bit when lowering my transmission jack. Could this cause the transmission to not go into gear when the engine is running?
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It was a while ago, but I think I remember my trans drooping just a bit when I took the jack off of it. My 8's never had an issue with getting in/out of gear since then, so I wouldn't pay too much mind to it.
Now, if it drooped a significant amount (more than maybe 1/8" - 1/4") then I'd just try realigning.
Glad this helped everyone!
11-06-2014, 08:08 PM
#94
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Clutch and gear problem.
Hey guys,
I have a 2004 rx8 and just recently it has been very hard to get into first and reverse. I have to pull it super hard back or push it super hard forward in order for it to go in the gears mentioned. Also just recently I have the "clutch pedal issue" I've seen some threads about it but not sure if this could be the cause of my gears problems. The clutch goes half way down just by pressing on it and then to get the gears to change fully you have to press it more for it to engage that you are pressing the clutch. If anyone could be of any help at all or has had this same problem would you guys let me know. Thanks!
And note: I'm not sure if the thing that the clutch is pushing in order for you to be able to change gears is fully retracting. If someone without the "clutch pedal issue" could snap a photo for me and post it I would appreciate it.
I will post a picture of what mine looks like as soon as I get a chance.
Thanks guys.
I have a 2004 rx8 and just recently it has been very hard to get into first and reverse. I have to pull it super hard back or push it super hard forward in order for it to go in the gears mentioned. Also just recently I have the "clutch pedal issue" I've seen some threads about it but not sure if this could be the cause of my gears problems. The clutch goes half way down just by pressing on it and then to get the gears to change fully you have to press it more for it to engage that you are pressing the clutch. If anyone could be of any help at all or has had this same problem would you guys let me know. Thanks!
And note: I'm not sure if the thing that the clutch is pushing in order for you to be able to change gears is fully retracting. If someone without the "clutch pedal issue" could snap a photo for me and post it I would appreciate it.
I will post a picture of what mine looks like as soon as I get a chance.
Thanks guys.
11-07-2014, 02:41 PM
#95
Hey guys,
I have a 2004 rx8 and just recently it has been very hard to get into first and reverse. I have to pull it super hard back or push it super hard forward in order for it to go in the gears mentioned. Also just recently I have the "clutch pedal issue" I've seen some threads about it but not sure if this could be the cause of my gears problems. The clutch goes half way down just by pressing on it and then to get the gears to change fully you have to press it more for it to engage that you are pressing the clutch. If anyone could be of any help at all or has had this same problem would you guys let me know. Thanks!
And note: I'm not sure if the thing that the clutch is pushing in order for you to be able to change gears is fully retracting. If someone without the "clutch pedal issue" could snap a photo for me and post it I would appreciate it.
I will post a picture of what mine looks like as soon as I get a chance.
Thanks guys.
I have a 2004 rx8 and just recently it has been very hard to get into first and reverse. I have to pull it super hard back or push it super hard forward in order for it to go in the gears mentioned. Also just recently I have the "clutch pedal issue" I've seen some threads about it but not sure if this could be the cause of my gears problems. The clutch goes half way down just by pressing on it and then to get the gears to change fully you have to press it more for it to engage that you are pressing the clutch. If anyone could be of any help at all or has had this same problem would you guys let me know. Thanks!
And note: I'm not sure if the thing that the clutch is pushing in order for you to be able to change gears is fully retracting. If someone without the "clutch pedal issue" could snap a photo for me and post it I would appreciate it.
I will post a picture of what mine looks like as soon as I get a chance.
Thanks guys.
11-10-2014, 11:45 AM
#98
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Thanks man, I fixed it. My bracket was broke in many different places, so I'm thinking it wasn't disengaging. So I took out the whole assembly out and welded and re-enforced the whole thing and now it works perfectly!
11-10-2014, 03:24 PM
#99
I just wanted to thank the OP for this thread. I did my clutch last week with this entire thread as my guide, and all-in-all things went pretty well.
Pro tip for you noobs like me that are lazy like me, and want to do your clutch: I don't think there is a single step in this guide that should be skipped. He tells you to drain your transmission. So drain your transmission. Don't ask me why I know. And those rubber things that are holding your exhaust system hostage: lots of WD-40 up in the hole and you'll be surprised how easy they come off. Really.
Pro tip for you noobs like me that are lazy like me, and want to do your clutch: I don't think there is a single step in this guide that should be skipped. He tells you to drain your transmission. So drain your transmission. Don't ask me why I know. And those rubber things that are holding your exhaust system hostage: lots of WD-40 up in the hole and you'll be surprised how easy they come off. Really.
11-16-2014, 11:33 PM
#100
Just a few quick questions. First post ever, needed to join some forums for this specific reason actually. Haha My clutch just went out. Be mindful I'm a budget, I don't want to spend the $500 in labor for something I feel like I can do. Obviously I'll take longer, but I'm free... I was thinking about an XTR stage 2 clutch kit? Reviews from if anyone has bought this before from XTR. Also, I understand that since I'd be down there I might as well replace the flywheel w/counterbalance. Is this necessary? Even if the stock flywheel is still in tact? Because a new flywheel w/counterbalance is spendy. I will be replacing all the bearings as well. Does anyone know of good videos they took of tearing down to get to the clutch assembly? This would be a first time replacing a clutch on a car. I will have help as well, but mind you were not licensed mechanics or I wouldn't be here. Lol I just want to get the 8 running again without spending a buttload that I don't have.