31 lbs, say it's not heavy if it falls on your toe

 

So that problem solved by jacking up front of diff jus a lil to straighten it. My back ppf bolts were on scary loose so maybe they were culprit to premature pilot bearing wear?

Anyways next problem lol I got all the bolts off the transmission with it on tranny jack but I jus can't seem to get it off the engine caught on drive shaft? Been playing with tranny jack angles trying to see if that helps but wiggling it back in forth don't seem to get it further than an inch.

 

did you support the engine? It will want to fall down at the back, or take off the rear cross brace on the subframe. One or the other

 

Yeah to both its about an inch out and won't budge further... Any ideas?

 

Question, Is the diff rotating? That could make it bind. You should be able to get a 2x4 (the flat side to the diff) between the back of the diff and a piece of the diff hanger. If the diff swings, it may be making things bind.

 

Wait are you trying to pull the trans with the drift shaft still on?

 

Naw I meant the stick in other direction when you separate it from engine. I got it to jus had to lift back of engine little higher to get angles right. But I had it supported from beginning I swear I think my ppf wasn't aligned properly to start. I actually stumbled across something saying that when its loose reverse stalls your car sometimes. Well what do you know my car stalled in me for first time when reversing into spot to do clutch/flywheel. I actually thought it was battery at first because corrosion on it so I took care of that but man some of the nuts on ppf by diff were so loose that I took em of by hand no wrench/breaker bar or anything!!!

 

I had to use my trusty hilti 22v impact wrench to take mine off. Seriously I would recommend a high quality impact wrench to anyone. Did my flywheel nut too

 

How do you remove the throwout bearing fork clip do you force the top loop out or jus the bottom two ends? Sorry if its stupid question but I can't figure it out XD and don't want to bend/break anything

 

Nvm problem was it was caught on tube sticking out had to pull throwout bearing further down shaft to get fork off I'm an idiot

 

Ok guys so I'm stuck once again @@ I can't get the pilot bearing out..... Got the harbor freight puller been at it for hour I got seal and insides portion of bearing out but the outer metal ring won't budge. Should I heat it up or apply something?

 

You could try using a dremmel tool but be really careful

 

Thankfully I did manage to get it off with harbor freight puller whew. But since the pilot bearing and seal weren't in tact I didn't get to see which way the seal goes. Does it go rubber side toward engine or metal side? Hopefully my last question

 

Rubber towards the engine.

Anything else I can help you with? Lol

 

I saw this reply and wanted to clarify it a little. 'Rubber side towards engine' wouldn't make a lot of sense to me.

The pilot bearing seal should be installed the same way you would any shaft oil seal. The solid surface should be facing out:

http://type247.files.wordpress.com/2...l_centered.jpg

This is actually a picture of a seal that's probably very close to the one in the RX8, if not identical:

http://shop.pettitracing.com/images/W01331832821.JPG

The side you can see (the top of the seal in that picture) should be facing out.

 

You are getting there. I had every possible thing go wrong as well...

When you get the new bearing and seal in, and grease them, it will create a very tight seal when you put the clutch alignment tool in. You will hear a pop when you pull it out. This pop can actually unseat one of the freaking stupid @$$ little bearings so that when you mount the transmission, it will go in all but the last half an inch or so... The fix is to drill a hole in the end of the tool, and the side, so that air can flow. It can also help if you trim the end of the tool a little so that you get as much of the teeth as possible engaged on the clutch to get the alignment the best it can be.

 

Whats hard to get? If you look at the seal you will see that there is a rubber side and a metal side. The rubber side faces the engine and the metal side faces the transmission. Its simple.

Its not rocket science. He didint ask for a full blown discription on how they work. He simply asked for a quick answer.

And I provided that. I'm sorry you didnt understand. Next time I'll go into extreme detail just for you

 

Whoah, calm down there, dude. All I did was provide more information. That's what this thread is for. I find pictures very helpful, so I added some. It was in no way meant as a slight. You answered the question the guy had, and precisely. I just added to it.

Cool?

Holy over-reaction, batman...

 

I have always installed the rubber side out towards the transmission

 

I emailed Charles at bhr to ask this question as I was unsure myself when I did my clutch install a couple weeks back.

Here is a quote from that email with an explanation as to why the seal faces the engine

The rubber side of the pilot seal faces the engine. Or, if you examine the seal very closely, you will see the rubber seal area has ridges that are biased more in one direction than another (kinda like a heart valve) and the ridges are intended to face toward the engine to prevent the grease from flowing back out.

 

Charles is a heart surgeon?

 

The description of rubber in or out is the problem...

I just pulled out a seal.....the side that is "rubber" is the inner side of the seal in this seal.....but traditionally the rubber is on the face of the seal that faces out...don't know if that helps.....I will try and post a picture

First picture is out....the ring on the outside is metal..but looks brown....2nd Pic is inside towards engine...it is brown as well...but rubber

 

My mind was blown at that stage lol I just did it the way he said.

I have read on the 7club that the rubber faces the engine as well

Inb4 50page thread on pilot seal direction lol

 

it probably makes zero difference since there shouldn't be any pressure force in either direction, would be rather pointless if it only seals in one direction, whether grease out or grime in. The factory manual makes no mention on it.

 

It would be difficult not to mash the seal pushing it in backward. They seal equally well either way...and there are no spiral ridges to direct the grease either way