So if your passenger mount is bad, the consensus is to replace and fill? Or can I pull the bad one off and fill and be good to go?

 

What? So you're asking if you can just remove the motor mount and that's it?

 

No, when I autoxed Honda's & DSM's back in the day you could fill a broken mount with window weld or urethane and be good to go. I'm asking is this the same here or not. When they fail, what do they look like. Is it a failure in such a way that your only choice is to replace and fill a good/new mount prior to replacing.

That's basically what I'm asking.

 

When the motor mount fails, it can usually be filled with urethane. That is because our mounts are practically rubber bags with mineral oil in them for vibration dampening. When the rubber cracks (which is the norm), you get extra unwanted movement. This can be solved by filling the oil fill cavity with urethane. Read the first post in this thread and the links.

BTW, what is this "window weld" technique you speak of and how does it compare against 60A urethane?

 

Actually, i did a little research on "windo-weld". 3M "Windo-Weld™ Super Fast Urethane" 08609. A common polyurethane used by many other DIYourselfers on the interwebs. Shore rating is 55-60A, so it seems prefect also. Shear strength, elongation, and tensile strength looks up to the task of our application also.


http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...SevTSeSSSSSS--


I'll try this instead of what Mcmaster Carr carries, since the local Autozone should have this in stock. Might take a look at my differential mount also and do that too if it is going.

 

Sorry if my initial explanation (ie: rambling) wasn't clear. But this is exactly what I was curious was if anybody had used this on these types of mounts. I was going to just repair my passenger side mount using this method with the readily available 3M product rather than ordering from online. I will be doing this in the next month. I will report back what I find out.

 

^ Any updates?

 

So I'm in the process of filling my mounts and used the extra passenger side mount as a test mule for the filling process. It came out great, but I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to fill the two in my car currently. Passenger side is easy because I can just swap out the one I already filled and repeat the process with the one on the car currently, but I'm trying to figure out the driver side. Can I use the passenger side one on the driver side for a week while the actual one cures? I know I'll have to make one of the holes bigger on the temporary mount, then use a washer to keep the smaller bolt so it can fit in the opposite hole of the right hand mount in order to line up on the right side.

Any reason this wouldn't work? I've been trying to source an extra mount for an AT, but haven't had much luck, so I figure this is my best bet so I can keep using my car. It's only for a week, how bad could it be, right?

 

I have four filled four pairs of MT mounts, but no AT mounts. Sorry.

 

I apologize I didnt read the whole thread but does this discuss the option of extending the depth the engine side mount bolts go into the top of the mount?

I did not personally do this on mine or 9k's but for higher HP application this would be worth while (I think bse50 is the one that turned me onto it)

 

If you clean them properly this is not necessary

 

curious on how much you were selling these for?

 

Who can answer my question? Really wanna finish this ASAP if i can.

 

I don't see how it will line up, but I am only familiar with the MT mounts, not the AT version, I doubt anyone has ever tried it so let us know

you should be able to find a used mount from a salvage yard

 

Ordered some 80A from MMC, should be here tomorrow (usually stuff I order from them is here next day). Going to be attempting this hopefully tomorrow night. Been reading on a few sites that the curing time can be decreased by placing the motor mounts in an oven at ~160F for about 10 hours, any truth to this?

 

Well I am skeptical of this because its not mentioned in the instructions for the material. I wouldn't trust any other method for it working properly than the one used by the people who made it.

 

I'm interested in doing this but would like to hear more feedback from those who have done it. I'm all for better throttle response and cleaner shifts at the sacrifice of a little vibration.
But I'd still like to take road-trips in my car if need be.

 

Oh ok cool, yea i don't have it yet so I wasn't too sure what the instructions stated. Is it an actual MMC product?

 

IIRC it is, but dont quote me on it. It came with instructions which I read several times, and it never mentioned an option to speed up the cure time by cooking it. Do it right or do it twice, a mantra to live (and mod) by.

 

yea, no cure time mods...just do it the right way.

and no with 80shore it is totally drivable hardly a change unless you car idles like ****

 

Just a heads up, I have a 2010 Sport, and did this mod this weekend. The newer mounts are a tad different in that both require you to drill out a center hole.

 

FYI I talked to the guys over at Forsche and they mentioned that you could heat the Poly to 150F for 48 hours for 100% cure

 

A lot of the Urethanes are accelerated up by heat...but some are not. Some will actually cure better with heat and pressure.

I'm sure that 150 degrees will not hurt anything..if it did they won't survive long as motor mounts in that location

 

yea i hear ya, my concern was their activator and it's sensitivity to high heat during the wet curing process.

 

my concern is that the heat would cause it to expand during the cure, and then it would shrink down once removed from the oven and possibly be more apt to loose it's bond to the interior surfaces