DIY: DRL repair
#27
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Anyone know if the Canadian DRL module can be put into a US-spec 8?
(Looking for a plug-&-play solution instead of hacking up the factory wiring harness as I'm looking to maximize the options in the car without straying from the original esign architecture)
(Looking for a plug-&-play solution instead of hacking up the factory wiring harness as I'm looking to maximize the options in the car without straying from the original esign architecture)
#28
Need DRL on US Car
I have a 2004 RX8 US spec car, and I just move to Canada and need DRL to import car. I got the Canadian DRL module (#FE01-67-750) and it has two wiring connectors on it and the US module (#FE01-67-560) only has one. The Canadian wiring diagram shows this module controls the hi-beam, power windows, and fog lamp circuits. Does any one have a US wiring diagram, or knows if I can just plug and play this module?
Thanks
Thanks
#29
I used this DIY, worked great! Even ordered from mouser.com as well...
Fixed my highbeams problem (no power was going to the driver's side's highbeam)
But my fog lights still don't work
Fixed my highbeams problem (no power was going to the driver's side's highbeam)
But my fog lights still don't work
#30
Thanks for the great writeup, saved me $100 after I noticed my passenger side high beam and DRLs were out.
Used the digi-key link (P/N CQ1-12V) so I didn't have to order 10 relays as with Mouser and they worked great.
As for arcing I took my bad relay apart (showing about 15kOhms closed either way) but couldn't really see any burn marks so I'm not sure why it was showing such high resistance.
Also for those (like me) with only 1 bulb out, on the board RLY4 is driver's side and RLY3 is passenger side so that might save you a little bit of soldering.
Used the digi-key link (P/N CQ1-12V) so I didn't have to order 10 relays as with Mouser and they worked great.
As for arcing I took my bad relay apart (showing about 15kOhms closed either way) but couldn't really see any burn marks so I'm not sure why it was showing such high resistance.
Also for those (like me) with only 1 bulb out, on the board RLY4 is driver's side and RLY3 is passenger side so that might save you a little bit of soldering.
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