DIY: Clutch/Flywheel removal/install (VIDEO)
05-02-2010, 05:34 PM
#1
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DIY: Clutch/Flywheel removal/install (VIDEO)
Hope this helps some people. Figured I'd try to record as much of this as I could. Let me know what you think.
Don't forget to have anti-seize, and lock tight, or loctite however you spell it.
IMPORTANT TO PROTECT THE DRIVE SHAFT WITH TOWELS SINCE IT IS CARBON FIBER BY WRAPPING THE SHAFT AND USING ZIP TIES.
Remember to always pay attention to how things come apart and go back together either by writing them down, or taking pictures, or whatever works for you since it will save you the headache in the long run. Don't forget to replace the bearings also, as well as all your fluids. There is a factory manual either on this site or the 7 site with all the specs you need.
A BIG THANKS to ELI063 for providing the pictures below of the flywheels and Throw out bearing!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWiVSuUvZ1A
Don't forget to have anti-seize, and lock tight, or loctite however you spell it.
IMPORTANT TO PROTECT THE DRIVE SHAFT WITH TOWELS SINCE IT IS CARBON FIBER BY WRAPPING THE SHAFT AND USING ZIP TIES.
Remember to always pay attention to how things come apart and go back together either by writing them down, or taking pictures, or whatever works for you since it will save you the headache in the long run. Don't forget to replace the bearings also, as well as all your fluids. There is a factory manual either on this site or the 7 site with all the specs you need.
A BIG THANKS to ELI063 for providing the pictures below of the flywheels and Throw out bearing!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWiVSuUvZ1A
Last edited by syntheticdarkness; 09-04-2011 at 04:48 PM.
05-02-2010, 05:48 PM
#2
Not bad... couple things to add:
1) You don't need to remove the studs used to secure the PPF.
2) Its a good idea to support the diff with a wooden block before removing the PPF so it doesn't spin.
3) The pair of black and white wires on top of the tranny (for neutral and reverse switch) doesn't need to be marked.
4) You need to drain the tranny fluid or else it'll leak out the back once the drive shaft is removed. Yes, you can try to keep it straight... but that can be difficult to do.
But its a nice start to a visual DIY for this process.
Thanks for taking the time to share.
1) You don't need to remove the studs used to secure the PPF.
2) Its a good idea to support the diff with a wooden block before removing the PPF so it doesn't spin.
3) The pair of black and white wires on top of the tranny (for neutral and reverse switch) doesn't need to be marked.
4) You need to drain the tranny fluid or else it'll leak out the back once the drive shaft is removed. Yes, you can try to keep it straight... but that can be difficult to do.
But its a nice start to a visual DIY for this process.
Thanks for taking the time to share.
05-02-2010, 07:03 PM
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Thank you. I'm one of those people that gotta keep everything in the same spot, or else it will drive me nuts lol. I had some supporting hands that helped in holding certain things on the car (wrxrage) lol. I wanted to wait to drain it until it got pulled so I could put it in a container to check the fluid, which by the way only made it to 15-20k before it basically failed (mobile 1), and now it's the test of amsoil.
05-03-2010, 09:53 AM
#4
I zoom therefore I am.
great video! I really love stuff like this. This is sure to help people down the road who might have been on the fence about doing it themselves and just seeing written instructions wasn't doing it for them.
05-03-2010, 10:00 AM
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Thank you. I love the DIY threads with pictures, and videos, just makes it much more easier for people. I'm sure we've all been there before with something as just written instructions where your scratching your head saying what the hell lol.
05-03-2010, 12:13 PM
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It's ok. We dug through a 5 gallon bucket of screws before we found one that fit. That damn flywheel did not wanna come off lol, and some people said the damn thing wants to pop off in your face.
its gona help me when i remove and replace my trans in oct!
07-20-2010, 12:10 PM
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I had around 100,000 on it. Usually it will start to slip a little when it gets bad, but mine didn't, it actually grinded a wee bit going into other gears at high rpms, also mine was really loud compared to some of my friends, but I don't know if I would go by that. Our subaru has around 125k+ on stock clutch, so miles sometimes don't matter depending on the car I guess and how it's drove.
07-20-2010, 12:39 PM
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Depends on what you mean easy lol. I drive really hard and haven't had to replace many clutches, which I think on my cars I've owned I've replaced two or three I believe, but they all had super high miles.
07-25-2010, 03:53 PM
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Two 10mmX1.25 was the bolts I used. I turned them both down so they rested flush against the surface of the block, then gave small turns to each one, then just pulled off the flywheel.
Last edited by syntheticdarkness; 07-25-2010 at 04:14 PM.
03-29-2011, 01:58 PM
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Does anyone have the tool to stop the flywheel from spinning to remove it? Is anyone selling cause I need it. If not does anyone know how to stop the flywheel from spinning without it? I need to refurbish or resurface it.
