B-Ron

Hey i got a question that probably was answere somewhere else but im lazy....Ive been wanting to install my 10" Type R's but i stoped by a local shop and they said that with the bose system you would have to replace the wireing and **** to hook up the amp! Two places have told me that now...is this bullshit or what? If it is true then is there a not horrible explensive way of getting around it?

G8rboy

Nah- that's BS... tap into the pre-amp wires I showed in the pics on page 3 coming from the head unit, and run those into the amp's line-level input. I've been running this setup for almost 2 years now with no problems... no line level converters or other wiring... nice and cheap

gnathen

[QUOTE=G8rboy]Nah- that's BS... tap into the pre-amp wires I showed in the pics on page 3 coming from the head unit, and run those into the amp's line-level input. I've been running this setup for almost 2 years now with no problems... no line level converters or other wiring... nice and cheap [/QUOTE

i want to use this setup but the amp i want doesnt have speaker lvl connections only rca imputs. How do i wire it with rca connections?

BomberNYC

Your going to need a line level converter so that you can take the signal comming from the head unit and turn them into RCA outputs.

G8rboy

Yes, that's the way you should do it, but I didn't... I just made an RCA-to-line-level cable by cutting a standard RCA cable pair in half and stripping the wires, and used those stripped ends to tap into the pre-amp speaker signals coming from the head unit, and plugged the RCA's on the other end into my amp. It's been working for my Alpine for almost two years now...

supra0083

I just installed an amp and a sub today. Initially, I was taking the preamp (Bose) input into my subwoofer amp (which is a Profile HA700M) high-level input. The result was very weak bass. It does add some overall but not what I was looking for. Then I redo it by hooking it up into the line-level input, the difference is the world. I would just like to share this experience with you, so that you don't freak out when you got weak bass coming out. Thanks everyone for contributing to this thread, it was very useful and assuring.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

So I'm a little confused now after all this..... all I have been reading on here says that you must use a summing LOC such as the Audiocontrol LC6i or such....now you're saying I can use any ol LOC or even directly into the amp (if supported)? What would be the advantages to using the LC6i? Just more adjustability? Not worth $100-$200 and pain of installing IMO.

EDIT: Also found a similar box on Ebay. Looks a little better even. No offense, but it's fitted to the RX8 perfectly.

tournapart

iTrader: (1)

that ebay box is sick....


i still give alot of props to this guy because he designed it himself and posted the design on here....we all appreciate it


Not sure when ill beable to afford to do this, but....this knowlege helps me alot, as i was unsure myself how to go about it, but i have a base stereo, how different is it and what am i going to have to do different?


thanks

zach

tournapart

iTrader: (1)

I have a base stereo, how should i go about getting RCA output, ive already found a remote signal turn on that runs from a speaker signal, but do they make line converters from regular speaker wire signal to RCA output?

any help is greatly appreciated

paulmasoner

iTrader: (1)

for what its worth.. i just recently got the box off ebay from ZEnclousres... cant say enough about how nice it is!!

tournapart

iTrader: (1)

yesh i got the box too, its awesome! cant beat the price either, 150 shipped

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Question for you all. Getting a remote turn on for your aftermarket amps. I realize you can tap off any acc power plug, but those with the Bose system should have some other easier options correct? Measuring with my DMM at the Bose harness, I noted that the yellow/white and pink/black wires are hot only when the key is in the acc mode. Makes no difference if the headunit is on or not. Anybody know what exactly these two wires are for?

RotaryBred

i'm suprised this thread is still going after over 3 years LoL..

Try going on ebay and search for "RX-8 Sub" and check out this box i found...

it's a lil too small to add ports (if you don't know, most ported box volumes should be almost twice the volume of sealed boxes) and i wanted to build a box with a rear center-firing slot port with a custom port mounted on that rear center access panel going straight from the interior to the rear of the box. I'm working on designing and then building a deeper box with a custom fitted baffel that will add about .75 cubic feet to the volume..

Most likely i will just buy a box and modify it with the added port and baffel.

unfortunately i will have to add that on after i put the "main" box in the trunk so removing it is gonna be a pain in the *** if i ever have to, let alone installing it in the first place.

With it i will be installing a pair of MA Audio HK120xc subs and powering them with a MA HK1998 1200 watt amp...

but first things first... buy the wood and a spiral saw. I'll post pics next month or whenever construction starts.

For those of you who want a sealed box, that ebay listing is worth checking out

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Already way ahead of you. Got one with a single 12" hole justified to the driver's side. Cut a 4 1/2" circular hole and added some 4" PVC piping. Tuned to 32Hz and sounds awesome. Not only is it louder than it's sealed counterpart, I get much better low frequency extension. The subwoofer I choose plus the semi-low tuning freq makes for a pretty evenly flat roll-off at all frequencies. No annoying overly-powerful thumps at certain parts of certain songs.

RotaryBred

If i was planning on using a single sub i would do the same thing.. but i would still port that box into the cabin of the car, i think it would make a hell of a difference, those leather seats must dampen the sound like crazy as well. How much difference does removing the center cover make?