Am lost here.

Since the radiator does not have a cap, how does make sure the radiator gets full?

By filling the overflow tank?
So then it will just fill up or do I have to start the car, let it run and keep fillingthe overflow tank?
tia

 

Just a quick probably dumb question, where are the fill marks on the header/overflow tank?
I have an 06 Shinka and the tank is surrounded by the battery box and air filter . Used a small flashlight and mirror and cannot find the marks. Just installed Prosport gauges and went to top off the coolant ($24 a gal. fl22) and for the life of me could not fine the marks. So I topped it off 1/2 full and no coolant light. Any help on the location of the marks or how to see the marks without taking the tank out will be greatly appreciated.

 

i think they are on the left side of the tank by the ecu. very hard to see espically if your tank is old.

 

Thanks 200.mph. Now I see them. I thought they were casting marks. Should have my eyes/brain checked.

 

np. they are hard to see. espically if your bottle is old

 

maybe this is the right place for this, because it may lead to a coolant change. Autocross event this past weekend:

I have a mix of about 75% of Prestone 50/50, then topped with distilled water, and some redline WW. Saw temps hit 220 on coolant (close to that on oil actually). Either my mixture sucks, this is normal, or i need to invest in a more efficient radiator to make sure temps go back down quick. thoughts?

 

i drive the **** out of my car and only once this summer ~100deg did my coolant and oil temps get to about 195. i upgraded my entire cooling system this spring tho. i also opened uo the wheel well liners a bit behind the oil coolers

 

This is a very good DIY. Thanks to OP and other who've supplemented with photos, which really help.

One thing that probably should be discussed is the choice of coolant, given that many, if not most, aftermarket coolants that meet Mazda's requirements of "ethylene glycol base + NO silicates + NO borates" contain 2-EH/2-EHA and/or sebacates, which are the two organic acids found in the original dexcool made in the mid 1990s that caused so much controversy.

I am not claiming to know who is correct or who isn't, and some claim the damage to coolant systems, lower intake manifold gaskets, and motors was specific to particular types of General Motors engines (especially the 3.1, 3.4 and 3.5 liter motors), but others claim that certain organic acids essentially weaken certain materials made to use some coolant system seals (and some certain motor seals, which becomes relevant if coolant migrates towards them).

I don't know if this should be a supplemental to this thread or a separate one, but in case anyone is curious, here's what I posted:

Issue Many Are Ignoring: Most Coolants Contain 2-EHA (which 'eats' silicone)

Revised title really should be "Many aftermarket coolants contain same organic acids that caused controversy when first unveiled in Dexcool (and even some OEM coolants sold by dealers under manufacturer labels do (such as Toyota's Super Long Life Coolant)."....I know, that's a long title.
__________________

 

Where exactly is this hose. Would someone post a picture?
I unplugged the hose on top of the throttle body and attempted to bleed, like an idiot and coolant shot up out of the throttle body instantly. I quickly replaced the hose and tried to dry up all the coolant. Rinsed it with distilled water afterwards. It looks like it got on some wires possibly spark plug connectors and everything else below the throttle body. Any possible damage here?
Also any possibility that this sufficiently sufficiently bled the air? I pulled that hose thinking coolant would flow downwards, stupid me should have made sure. Its the top hose as shown here:
Hopefully this helps others learn as well.
Throttle body coolant bypass

Thanks!

 

I recently flushed my system, although I did it a little differently. I didn't find it necessary to jack the car up so I just reached under (I'm pretty skinny so that may have helped). I also didn't do the whole two parts thing. The workshop manual just says to drain it, re-plug the radiator, and fill the system back up. I did a combination between the two. While the plug was still out I ran a gallon or so of water (admittedly tap) through the system. Then I plugged it back up and filled it with a 7:3 water:coolant mixture, since it rarely gets below 30F here. I know tap water isn't ideal because of the minerals in it, but I had to do it then because I had lost so much coolant and needed my car, but I live in Memphis and our tap water is very clean so I doubt it will cause much trouble. Plus the engine hasn't been running any hotter than usual so...

 

Is the underbody trey removal required to get access to drain? i plan on having my front bumper removed so i figure ill do this when its off

 

On an S1 nope, S2 you will need to remove the sump guard.

 

Just did the coolant. Piece of cake. Don't need goggles, or a splash guard or anything. Just the sump guard standing in your way. System took just a bit under 2 gallons. Dealer raped me 47 bucks for the 2 gallons of FL22.

thanx to Paimon for clarification. Didn't know if the EHT2 or whatever was that long word on the back of the Prestone label.

 

np, btw not sure why i said you need to remove the sump guard to drain the coolant ... im pretty sure you dont need to as there is a hole in the undertray where the drain plug is on the S2.

it was at 7:12AM that i posted that so i must have been in zombie mode lol

 

Nope, you have to. that was actually the worst part of the task.

BTW, do your oil changes thru the wheelwell. MUCH easier.

 

Thank you for writing this informative article. You have made sense of this topic with your original and quality content. It’s smart, engaging and interesting. Articles like this are genuinely appreciated by people like me.

 

you should let me rent a car in Brampton bro...

 

lol did the older S2's not have an access hole in the underpanel? I just checked and mine surely does. Easily able to access the radiator drain plug.

and yup, filter through the wheel well makes it 1000x easier ... and using a cordless impact driver also makes removing the sump guard a 2 second job hehe.

 

my coolant light keeps comming on after I change the coolant?

 

the float in the overflow tank goes faulty and sinks. Either replace the overflow tank or just unplug the sensor from the side of the overflow tank so the light wont come on and check coolant levels periodically.

 

I have a related question. When there is about a 10 degree change here in South FL, my coolant warning goes on for about 20 seconds then it goes off. This only happens when I'm starting the car after it has been off for hours. I haven't added coolant in at least 2 years after the dealer fixed a blown up water pump and basically replaced the whole cooling system. Could I need to add some and even do a flush? It's been about 30k miles since the new coolant was added. Thanks.

 

Did mine with a very short screw driver. Replace with 50/50 mix(Mile high city Rocky mountains). Easy change out.

 

Replace your radiator cap with brand new one. They can be had OEM for $7 or $8.

Not only will this prevent the CEL from being triggered if your existing cap has a faulty seal, but you will be keeping air and humidity from constantly being introduced into your coolant, turning it acidic.

 

Thanks, will also do that. Less than $10 is cheap insurance. However, after I bought the recommended coolant, got this one 04 2004 Mazda RX8 Coolant Antifreeze - Chemicals and Fluids - Beck Arnley - PartsGeek , and filled up to MAX the warning stopped altogether.

 

The cap has nothing to do with the low level indicator light coming on or not.