DIY: Coolant Change
#102
Just a quick probably dumb question, where are the fill marks on the header/overflow tank?
I have an 06 Shinka and the tank is surrounded by the battery box and air filter . Used a small flashlight and mirror and cannot find the marks. Just installed Prosport gauges and went to top off the coolant ($24 a gal. fl22) and for the life of me could not fine the marks. So I topped it off 1/2 full and no coolant light. Any help on the location of the marks or how to see the marks without taking the tank out will be greatly appreciated.
I have an 06 Shinka and the tank is surrounded by the battery box and air filter . Used a small flashlight and mirror and cannot find the marks. Just installed Prosport gauges and went to top off the coolant ($24 a gal. fl22) and for the life of me could not fine the marks. So I topped it off 1/2 full and no coolant light. Any help on the location of the marks or how to see the marks without taking the tank out will be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by lgilbert50; 09-17-2012 at 08:21 AM.
#103
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
i think they are on the left side of the tank by the ecu. very hard to see espically if your tank is old.
#105
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
np. they are hard to see. espically if your bottle is old
#106
Registered
iTrader: (15)
maybe this is the right place for this, because it may lead to a coolant change. Autocross event this past weekend:
I have a mix of about 75% of Prestone 50/50, then topped with distilled water, and some redline WW. Saw temps hit 220 on coolant (close to that on oil actually). Either my mixture sucks, this is normal, or i need to invest in a more efficient radiator to make sure temps go back down quick. thoughts?
I have a mix of about 75% of Prestone 50/50, then topped with distilled water, and some redline WW. Saw temps hit 220 on coolant (close to that on oil actually). Either my mixture sucks, this is normal, or i need to invest in a more efficient radiator to make sure temps go back down quick. thoughts?
#107
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
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i drive the **** out of my car and only once this summer ~100deg did my coolant and oil temps get to about 195. i upgraded my entire cooling system this spring tho. i also opened uo the wheel well liners a bit behind the oil coolers
#108
This is a very good DIY. Thanks to OP and other who've supplemented with photos, which really help.
One thing that probably should be discussed is the choice of coolant, given that many, if not most, aftermarket coolants that meet Mazda's requirements of "ethylene glycol base + NO silicates + NO borates" contain 2-EH/2-EHA and/or sebacates, which are the two organic acids found in the original dexcool made in the mid 1990s that caused so much controversy.
I am not claiming to know who is correct or who isn't, and some claim the damage to coolant systems, lower intake manifold gaskets, and motors was specific to particular types of General Motors engines (especially the 3.1, 3.4 and 3.5 liter motors), but others claim that certain organic acids essentially weaken certain materials made to use some coolant system seals (and some certain motor seals, which becomes relevant if coolant migrates towards them).
I don't know if this should be a supplemental to this thread or a separate one, but in case anyone is curious, here's what I posted:
Issue Many Are Ignoring: Most Coolants Contain 2-EHA (which 'eats' silicone)
Revised title really should be "Many aftermarket coolants contain same organic acids that caused controversy when first unveiled in Dexcool (and even some OEM coolants sold by dealers under manufacturer labels do (such as Toyota's Super Long Life Coolant)."....I know, that's a long title.
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One thing that probably should be discussed is the choice of coolant, given that many, if not most, aftermarket coolants that meet Mazda's requirements of "ethylene glycol base + NO silicates + NO borates" contain 2-EH/2-EHA and/or sebacates, which are the two organic acids found in the original dexcool made in the mid 1990s that caused so much controversy.
I am not claiming to know who is correct or who isn't, and some claim the damage to coolant systems, lower intake manifold gaskets, and motors was specific to particular types of General Motors engines (especially the 3.1, 3.4 and 3.5 liter motors), but others claim that certain organic acids essentially weaken certain materials made to use some coolant system seals (and some certain motor seals, which becomes relevant if coolant migrates towards them).
I don't know if this should be a supplemental to this thread or a separate one, but in case anyone is curious, here's what I posted:
Issue Many Are Ignoring: Most Coolants Contain 2-EHA (which 'eats' silicone)
Revised title really should be "Many aftermarket coolants contain same organic acids that caused controversy when first unveiled in Dexcool (and even some OEM coolants sold by dealers under manufacturer labels do (such as Toyota's Super Long Life Coolant)."....I know, that's a long title.
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Last edited by RotoRocket; 10-02-2012 at 01:03 PM.
#109
Throttle body hose used for bleeding air.
Where exactly is this hose. Would someone post a picture?
I unplugged the hose on top of the throttle body and attempted to bleed, like an idiot and coolant shot up out of the throttle body instantly. I quickly replaced the hose and tried to dry up all the coolant. Rinsed it with distilled water afterwards. It looks like it got on some wires possibly spark plug connectors and everything else below the throttle body. Any possible damage here?
Also any possibility that this sufficiently sufficiently bled the air? I pulled that hose thinking coolant would flow downwards, stupid me should have made sure. Its the top hose as shown here:
Hopefully this helps others learn as well.
Throttle body coolant bypass
Thanks!
I unplugged the hose on top of the throttle body and attempted to bleed, like an idiot and coolant shot up out of the throttle body instantly. I quickly replaced the hose and tried to dry up all the coolant. Rinsed it with distilled water afterwards. It looks like it got on some wires possibly spark plug connectors and everything else below the throttle body. Any possible damage here?
Also any possibility that this sufficiently sufficiently bled the air? I pulled that hose thinking coolant would flow downwards, stupid me should have made sure. Its the top hose as shown here:
Hopefully this helps others learn as well.
Throttle body coolant bypass
Thanks!
#110
Non-Savant Idiot
I recently flushed my system, although I did it a little differently. I didn't find it necessary to jack the car up so I just reached under (I'm pretty skinny so that may have helped). I also didn't do the whole two parts thing. The workshop manual just says to drain it, re-plug the radiator, and fill the system back up. I did a combination between the two. While the plug was still out I ran a gallon or so of water (admittedly tap) through the system. Then I plugged it back up and filled it with a 7:3 water:coolant mixture, since it rarely gets below 30F here. I know tap water isn't ideal because of the minerals in it, but I had to do it then because I had lost so much coolant and needed my car, but I live in Memphis and our tap water is very clean so I doubt it will cause much trouble. Plus the engine hasn't been running any hotter than usual so...
#111
Last edited by Lvis; 03-05-2013 at 03:50 AM.
#113
Just did the coolant. Piece of cake. Don't need goggles, or a splash guard or anything. Just the sump guard standing in your way. System took just a bit under 2 gallons. Dealer raped me 47 bucks for the 2 gallons of FL22.
thanx to Paimon for clarification. Didn't know if the EHT2 or whatever was that long word on the back of the Prestone label.
thanx to Paimon for clarification. Didn't know if the EHT2 or whatever was that long word on the back of the Prestone label.
#115
#116
car rental brampton
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#118
Registered
iTrader: (15)
and yup, filter through the wheel well makes it 1000x easier ... and using a cordless impact driver also makes removing the sump guard a 2 second job hehe.
#120
the float in the overflow tank goes faulty and sinks. Either replace the overflow tank or just unplug the sensor from the side of the overflow tank so the light wont come on and check coolant levels periodically.
#121
Registered
I have a related question. When there is about a 10 degree change here in South FL, my coolant warning goes on for about 20 seconds then it goes off. This only happens when I'm starting the car after it has been off for hours. I haven't added coolant in at least 2 years after the dealer fixed a blown up water pump and basically replaced the whole cooling system. Could I need to add some and even do a flush? It's been about 30k miles since the new coolant was added. Thanks.
#123
I have a related question. When there is about a 10 degree change here in South FL, my coolant warning goes on for about 20 seconds then it goes off. This only happens when I'm starting the car after it has been off for hours. I haven't added coolant in at least 2 years after the dealer fixed a blown up water pump and basically replaced the whole cooling system. Could I need to add some and even do a flush? It's been about 30k miles since the new coolant was added. Thanks.
Not only will this prevent the CEL from being triggered if your existing cap has a faulty seal, but you will be keeping air and humidity from constantly being introduced into your coolant, turning it acidic.
#124
Registered
Replace your radiator cap with brand new one. They can be had OEM for $7 or $8.
Not only will this prevent the CEL from being triggered if your existing cap has a faulty seal, but you will be keeping air and humidity from constantly being introduced into your coolant, turning it acidic.
Not only will this prevent the CEL from being triggered if your existing cap has a faulty seal, but you will be keeping air and humidity from constantly being introduced into your coolant, turning it acidic.
Thanks, will also do that. Less than $10 is cheap insurance. However, after I bought the recommended coolant, got this one 04 2004 Mazda RX8 Coolant Antifreeze - Chemicals and Fluids - Beck Arnley - PartsGeek , and filled up to MAX the warning stopped altogether.