DIY: Clutch/Flywheel removal/install (VIDEO)
07-19-2011, 11:34 AM
#31
this is the worst DIY ever.
You have to take the driveshaft cover off the RH side of the powerplant frame (PPF) and very carefully remove the CARBON FIBER driveshaft first and then carefully wrap or protect it from getting scratched while it is off BEFORE unbolting the PPF. If you unbolt the PPF first as shown in this video the first thing that happens is the PPF falls against the carbon fiber drive shaft and potentially scratches it. Serious fail.
You have to take the driveshaft cover off the RH side of the powerplant frame (PPF) and very carefully remove the CARBON FIBER driveshaft first and then carefully wrap or protect it from getting scratched while it is off BEFORE unbolting the PPF. If you unbolt the PPF first as shown in this video the first thing that happens is the PPF falls against the carbon fiber drive shaft and potentially scratches it. Serious fail.
07-19-2011, 12:21 PM
#32
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
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What the hell team, no need to be such a dick. Add your two cents to help so it helps others, but to say it's the worst, come on. Apparently MAZDA has it wrong then. You brought up a good point about the carbon fiber, but I knew about it being made of it so I did things very careful. This is the order MAZDA has. On top of that, I didn't even have the ppf come close to hitting the shaft when I took it off.
Last edited by syntheticdarkness; 07-19-2011 at 12:55 PM.
07-25-2011, 06:52 AM
#33
Gets the WORST mpg
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1. So what brand clutch and flywheel did you use? Did it come with all parts necessary to complete the task?
2. What was the part you were shaking that was rattling (not the clutch/tambourine)?
3. Also when you got the clutch out how did it look, was there much life left in it?
2. What was the part you were shaking that was rattling (not the clutch/tambourine)?
3. Also when you got the clutch out how did it look, was there much life left in it?
07-25-2011, 12:17 PM
#34
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I disconnect the battery 1st, then remove the shifter,chain the diff around the diff cradle and the hanger for the exhaust, this way I can move the car if need be without the diff moving.When I get to removing the trans , I remove the top bolts first.
I was curious as to which brand of torque wrench you used to wrench the flywheel nut.
I was curious as to which brand of torque wrench you used to wrench the flywheel nut.
07-25-2011, 03:31 PM
#35
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
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1. ACT prolite flywheel, counter weight, and clutch kit which came with everything. BHR sells some real good kits also, or they can help you out if your looking for specific kits.
2. I think your asking about throw out bearing if it's the one I shake in front of the transmission.
3. Mine was almost to the rivets so it probably only had a few thousand left before it would of damaged the flywheel.
As for the torque wrench it was snap on, and I believe my uncle in-law said it went up to 600 ft.lb.. I would ask him to make sure but he past away in December.
2. I think your asking about throw out bearing if it's the one I shake in front of the transmission.
3. Mine was almost to the rivets so it probably only had a few thousand left before it would of damaged the flywheel.
As for the torque wrench it was snap on, and I believe my uncle in-law said it went up to 600 ft.lb.. I would ask him to make sure but he past away in December.
07-31-2011, 08:42 PM
#37
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Not bad... couple things to add:
~
4) You need to drain the tranny fluid or else it'll leak out the back once the drive shaft is removed. Yes, you can try to keep it straight... but that can be difficult to do.
But its a nice start to a visual DIY for this process.
Thanks for taking the time to share.
~
4) You need to drain the tranny fluid or else it'll leak out the back once the drive shaft is removed. Yes, you can try to keep it straight... but that can be difficult to do.
But its a nice start to a visual DIY for this process.
Thanks for taking the time to share.
Or use a "spare" drive shaft end as a plug....
08-01-2011, 01:27 PM
#38
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I believe there is only one way to install the counter weight. The flat side goes against the back of the flywheel and the protruding side goes toward the engine. Always check to make sure everything clears. Plus it should look about the same depth as the stock if they are side by side.
Last edited by syntheticdarkness; 08-01-2011 at 01:29 PM.
09-04-2011, 08:14 PM
#42
The large nut was a PIA to brake loose. 2 foot breaker bar with another 18" pipe and used all my weight. I bought and used the mazdatrix flywheel stoper. $20 or something like that. They also sell a flywheel nut wrench for $30 ish in case you dont own a 54MM socket.
If you think your going to get the nut off with an impact gun, it better be a 400 ftlb super impact. The torque spec is something like 365 ft lbs.
If you think your going to get the nut off with an impact gun, it better be a 400 ftlb super impact. The torque spec is something like 365 ft lbs.
09-05-2011, 09:25 AM
#43
Great video thanks for the Advice my clutch has been slipping quite badly and I want to do the repair myself, because real men fix their own cars :-) and I love doing that sort of thing. I am going to get the Exedy stage 1 clutch and keep the stock fly wheel.
About how long did the entire install take and how long do you think it will take to do on my own?
I was advised to use a transmission jack, do you think a good floor jack will work just as well?
About how long did the entire install take and how long do you think it will take to do on my own?
I was advised to use a transmission jack, do you think a good floor jack will work just as well?
09-05-2011, 11:21 AM
#44
RX8 & RX7 owner
Some suggestions....
1. If you can't get the flwheel nut off, TORCH IT. I couldn't get mine off and called Racing Beat because I was replacing the flywheel too and that's what they said, that's what I did, and it worked like a charm. I also found out RE-A also uses this method. You can buy a Benzo Torch kit from Home Depot for like $15. You don't want to figure out later that you will need it.
2. I also agree with JON good idea to just remove the drive shaft and drain the tranny fluid anyways since IT IS GOING TO LEAK if you try doing by yourself.
3. Remember to bleed the clutch line properly and replace the line if necessary.
4. The Flywheel Nut is 2 1/8", I looked everywhere for one and nothing. So for those of you who have a Harbor Freight, they usually carry an Oversize Socket set that DOES include a 2 1/8" socket for like $199, you can use it and then return it, honestly that's what I did. Mazdatrix and Pineapple Racing also sell tools for removing the nut but are just as expensive and I doubt you can return lol
5. If its difficult to realign the tranny (which it is) when putting it back on, try wedging the engine back some with a 2x4 some where in your engine bay to tilt the back down a bit more down and make it a bit easier to reinstall the tranny.
6. The flywheel can be a bitch to take off, I just hammered it around a bit until it came off. You can also use a puller. Please insert a bolt back on it and use that to tie it somewhere because it will honestly try to fall on your face, and the stock flywheel is a heavy ****.
7. If you are (which you should) replace your pilot bearing (along with tranny seals & other stuff Racing Beat recommends since you are already there), you can rent a pilot bearing removal tool and slide hammer with a $50 deposit at AUTOZONE. If you have a slide hammer, then it will only be $14 for the pilot bearing tool. With the exemption of the flywheel, you should have the parts/tools that are pictured below before attempting a clutch job.
1. If you can't get the flwheel nut off, TORCH IT. I couldn't get mine off and called Racing Beat because I was replacing the flywheel too and that's what they said, that's what I did, and it worked like a charm. I also found out RE-A also uses this method. You can buy a Benzo Torch kit from Home Depot for like $15. You don't want to figure out later that you will need it.
2. I also agree with JON good idea to just remove the drive shaft and drain the tranny fluid anyways since IT IS GOING TO LEAK if you try doing by yourself.
3. Remember to bleed the clutch line properly and replace the line if necessary.
4. The Flywheel Nut is 2 1/8", I looked everywhere for one and nothing. So for those of you who have a Harbor Freight, they usually carry an Oversize Socket set that DOES include a 2 1/8" socket for like $199, you can use it and then return it, honestly that's what I did. Mazdatrix and Pineapple Racing also sell tools for removing the nut but are just as expensive and I doubt you can return lol
5. If its difficult to realign the tranny (which it is) when putting it back on, try wedging the engine back some with a 2x4 some where in your engine bay to tilt the back down a bit more down and make it a bit easier to reinstall the tranny.
6. The flywheel can be a bitch to take off, I just hammered it around a bit until it came off. You can also use a puller. Please insert a bolt back on it and use that to tie it somewhere because it will honestly try to fall on your face, and the stock flywheel is a heavy ****.
7. If you are (which you should) replace your pilot bearing (along with tranny seals & other stuff Racing Beat recommends since you are already there), you can rent a pilot bearing removal tool and slide hammer with a $50 deposit at AUTOZONE. If you have a slide hammer, then it will only be $14 for the pilot bearing tool. With the exemption of the flywheel, you should have the parts/tools that are pictured below before attempting a clutch job.
09-05-2011, 06:17 PM
#45
@ZumnRx8
I take it the second and third images are the Slide hammer and pilot bearing tool. I have ordered a new clutch so I will be doing the work next weekend as long as the kit arrives in time.
Will I need both tools if I am not removing the flywheel?
I just bought a great Pittsburgh 2 tonne low profile jack today that can lift my car nearly 2' off the floor :-) It was reduced to $90 at harbor freight from about $150 so I am really happy with that deal. I also have another 2 jack stand ordered. Then I need a couple of other tools I noticed when I jacked up my car today like a long 17mm socket and an extender bar for my socket set.
I take it the second and third images are the Slide hammer and pilot bearing tool. I have ordered a new clutch so I will be doing the work next weekend as long as the kit arrives in time.
Will I need both tools if I am not removing the flywheel?
I just bought a great Pittsburgh 2 tonne low profile jack today that can lift my car nearly 2' off the floor :-) It was reduced to $90 at harbor freight from about $150 so I am really happy with that deal. I also have another 2 jack stand ordered. Then I need a couple of other tools I noticed when I jacked up my car today like a long 17mm socket and an extender bar for my socket set.
09-05-2011, 09:32 PM
#46
RX8 & RX7 owner
Yes you need everything I listed. You will need to replace the pilot bearing with a new one because the bearings in the old one are probably wore out. And you will need the oversize socket set to take off your flywheel as well to get it turned like you would brake rotors. If you have the money to buy a lighter flywheel (w/friction plate) I suggest you do, its an amazing difference. It is also reccomended to replace your transmission seals, and throwout bearing too. Here are some pictures of used/ new pictures for comparison. These are from my FC, but pretty much the same thing. If my RX8 wasnt AT I would sure write up a detailed DIY like my "rear brake pads" thread
Or maybe Ill convince Izzy (another 8 member) to do a lighter flywheel and do it then. Eventually it will happen.
Or maybe Ill convince Izzy (another 8 member) to do a lighter flywheel and do it then. Eventually it will happen.
Last edited by ZumnRx8; 09-05-2011 at 09:39 PM.
09-05-2011, 10:23 PM
#47
@ZumnRx8 Thanks for taking the time to reply I really appreciate it. I will get the parts from autozone. I was going to change the flywheel too but it is an illegal mod for STX autocross, I know noone would know but I am not one to cheat, I prefer to win because I am a better driver.
I think I will make a video when I do mine and take some pics, Ill let you know how it goes.
I think I will make a video when I do mine and take some pics, Ill let you know how it goes.
09-07-2011, 02:19 PM
#50
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
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Great advice Zumn. If you had one of those GoPros you could mount it to your head wright which would make it easier to record and not get your camera all dirty like we did lol. If you have a mr. tools they sell over sized sockets cheap.
It took us 4-8 hours, but we was working on other cars as well, and talking a lot lol. I didn't like M1 IMO since it only lasted around 15k. I went to Amsoil and put about 25k on it with no problems. What I ran into with M1 was it was black as hell when we drained it and I was having a little shift problem, but could of been because the clutch was almost to the rivets. I don't know if BHR still sells/doing the ENEOS oil, but I would check on that from what they said it's doing good from there testing if I read it correctly.
It took us 4-8 hours, but we was working on other cars as well, and talking a lot lol. I didn't like M1 IMO since it only lasted around 15k. I went to Amsoil and put about 25k on it with no problems. What I ran into with M1 was it was black as hell when we drained it and I was having a little shift problem, but could of been because the clutch was almost to the rivets. I don't know if BHR still sells/doing the ENEOS oil, but I would check on that from what they said it's doing good from there testing if I read it correctly.