Is the video still available? It's full of LMAO.

 

I will be using a odyssey as well... but with one of these bad boys.

http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/...jpg?1299281598

 

i have been considering the 925, not sure if it would even be worth the relocation for me being NA. The battery alone is half the weight of oem, need not waste all that reduced space on wiring.

 

I am looking at the PC925 as well....anyone had luck with this in the trunk running 2g wire? just like to avoid starting issues .

 

I am on my second one in 6years. I haven't had any problems other than they seem to die after 3 years or so

 

You can, but your lights will dim along with other things. I did it and was pissed having to do it over again with thicker (proper) wire. Always do it right the first time.

 

Strange...mine has been working well with 4Ga wire...it is high quality tinned multistrand wire though....

Did you run a ground wire as well?..often when you use the body as a ground you loose a lot of capacity

 

You shouldn't really need more than 4AWG. And if you do end up wanting to use the body as a ground, you absolutely must run a ground from the engine block to the body in the front as well.

 

I was planing on using 2g

RADAFLEX® #2 AWG Twin Cable

 

Yeah the quality of the wire matters. I have some really good stuff, I need to get this done this weekend, I have everything I need.

 

great stuff. I used the 2AWG of their regular RADAFLEX. You will be impressed at how flexible it is.

 

I like that twin cable, pretty cool. I should have gotten that. Make sure you order enough though, Hoss ended up using more than he thought he would and had to order more.

 

Fits nicely down the passenger side door channel..just pop the molding up and it should fit in easily

 

at least 25ft one way (meaning if you are getting the single wire you need 50ft if you plan on running ground back to the engine bay)

 

Why run that much extra wire? Just ground the bloomin' thing in the trunk.

 

That debate can go on for hours. It is best to have a direct ground to the starter. That means either run the cable back up to the bay and connect to the OEM harness, or have a short ground in the trunk and run another wire out of the trunk and down to the starter.

 

I plan to run my wire next to the fuel line....let the flaming begin .....and into the trunk. Why could I not ground the engine on the "run" to the trunk?

 

I Thought about running an extra ground into the trunk as long as I was at it but yes I think it is a very good idea to run the cable all the way out to the engine bay with the ground.

 

so by me running the dual conductor cable I am essentially running a ground to the engine...right

I planned on splicing the black wire where is passes the engine ground then jumping up next to the fuse box were I will cut all the + & - harness wires and run through distribution blocks.

 

I personally wouldn't cut anything. Here is what I did.



that distro block is the hot wire. Under that "plate" i fabbed, I grinded off the paint from the frame, put all the grounds there. Bolt holes were available from the intake and original battery mounts.

If you look hard enough you can see that I have an extra ground going from the engine (look behind water pump pully) to the frame as well.

 

I just took a look at the old wire I was using and turns out the reason I was getting so much voltage drop off is because I was using CCA wire. Be aware of this if it hasn't already been said. I replaced mine with a OFC wire, properly grounded in the trunk. No problems.

 

No wonder...the alum wire has way lower capacity than copper wire core

The good stuff is very small strand coated wire...expensive but has the best capacity for the size

 

both look great, thanks guys!

I was thinking I would remove the OEM EPS fuse and neatly tuck everything next to the fuse box with 2 aftermarket anl fuse holders (60 and 100). we shall see how it goes....dig'n the clean look and extra room for booooossssst

 

0 gauge CCA = 4 gauge OFC

CCA really sucks ***** for this mod. The OFC was crazy expensive, but absolutely worth it. The difference is astounding actually.

 

+1

I previously ran a ground cable from the trunk area back to the front on V1.0. Currently on V2.0 I grounded the battery to the chassis in the trunk (RH shock tower brace bolt) and if anything it seems to ground better IMO. i did run an extra ground cable between the engine and the chassis brace in frnt of the engine where all the front ground wires are bolted. Otherwise I don't see any need to run a ground cable all the way back.