DIY: Battery relocation to trunk
06-12-2009, 12:23 AM
#51
i dont understand why you think that being in the trunk turns the battery into a "lethal projectile".. you think its gonna shoot through the trunk , through the seats, into someones face?
And do you honestly think the factory location/tiedowns are any better ? you can easily snap the foot long 5mm thick bolts and hangars with something as easy as going into a ditch...
otherwise i see more pros than cons in relocating the battery , although i would put it somewhere more effective than right in the middle. i am sure its easy to jump you off if you break down, but makes a PITA to put anything in the trunk like luggage or something
And do you honestly think the factory location/tiedowns are any better ? you can easily snap the foot long 5mm thick bolts and hangars with something as easy as going into a ditch...
otherwise i see more pros than cons in relocating the battery , although i would put it somewhere more effective than right in the middle. i am sure its easy to jump you off if you break down, but makes a PITA to put anything in the trunk like luggage or something
Then again, i think he's being a bit paranoid too.
06-12-2009, 09:58 AM
#52
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You don't need the positive terminal block 9k, just the after market fuse and holders.
As for the battery, it's very secure now, and also being in that deep bin in a head on collision helps to hold it also. I had an accident in 98 in a civc hatch with a big 2x12 speaker box at 110 and it was just held by bungee straps and it didn't do anything, got pics of that, and also the car was gutted except the two front seats. This is one of those subjects that can be the cup is half full or half empty, in everyone's own opinion.
G3tR3DDY2GR3DDY it's not a pita as what you might think where I have it. I have a full size tire and can still fit stuff in along with it. I'll have to take a picture and show you.
As for the battery, it's very secure now, and also being in that deep bin in a head on collision helps to hold it also. I had an accident in 98 in a civc hatch with a big 2x12 speaker box at 110 and it was just held by bungee straps and it didn't do anything, got pics of that, and also the car was gutted except the two front seats. This is one of those subjects that can be the cup is half full or half empty, in everyone's own opinion.
G3tR3DDY2GR3DDY it's not a pita as what you might think where I have it. I have a full size tire and can still fit stuff in along with it. I'll have to take a picture and show you.
07-14-2009, 10:15 PM
#55
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I prefer 2 since it will have less resistance, but I think 4 might work, but I'll have to ask my friend since he knows all the electrical stuff better since he went to school for it. Did you run 4 for an amp?
Thanks teamrx8, and great minds do think a like.
Thanks teamrx8, and great minds do think a like.
07-14-2009, 10:56 PM
#56
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Well from this site it seems pretty good for the info, but don't quote me on this since I don't know if it is a reliable source.
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
If I'm correct we have 100 amp alt.
If I'm wrong please correct me on this.
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
If I'm correct we have 100 amp alt.
If I'm wrong please correct me on this.
Last edited by syntheticdarkness; 04-27-2010 at 07:53 PM.
07-15-2009, 08:30 PM
#57
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yeah.... stinger 4 ga line. very very nice line!
also have a 6 farret digital cap in the back....
this good enouph? anyone?
also have a 6 farret digital cap in the back....
this good enouph? anyone?
Last edited by heyarnold69; 07-15-2009 at 08:33 PM.
07-17-2009, 08:39 AM
#58
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Sorry for taking so long, haven't been home much. You should be able to use it. Teamrx8 is using 4ga, and the charts say it'll be fine. If you kinda of doubt it when you have everything done let the car run for a while and touch the wire to make sure you don't feel any heat from it.
07-17-2009, 02:18 PM
#63
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That's why I went with the heavy duty poly box instead of a complete metal box.
I'm sure it won't move if you look at it closer, but still.
I'm sure it won't move if you look at it closer, but still.
08-18-2009, 10:01 PM
#64
Is this title ok?
Just want to add my contribution,
I laid my 2 awg wire along the edge trim with existing OEM wires loom and welded up a battery bracket and bolted it to the right rear strut using the two existing holes along side of the run-flat tire repair kit. The bracket is also bolt down to the trunk floor with rivet nuts/bolts (whatever you call those thing where you can only access the hole from one side of the wall)
I laid my 2 awg wire along the edge trim with existing OEM wires loom and welded up a battery bracket and bolted it to the right rear strut using the two existing holes along side of the run-flat tire repair kit. The bracket is also bolt down to the trunk floor with rivet nuts/bolts (whatever you call those thing where you can only access the hole from one side of the wall)
08-19-2009, 10:21 AM
#65
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Nice job. I like the power block in the third picture, makes it easier then what I used, but mine still wasn't to bad to use to get the wires in. I don't think I took any pictures of my trunk when I went to the kent island meet. I had a full spare, case of beer, two chairs in a sac, food, clothes, cleaning supplies, jack and rest of the kit etc...
Anyone else who does a relocation to the trunk should also post there pictures, that way people can get more idea's on what they want to do. Again, nice job seikx8, and thanks for your pictures.
Anyone else who does a relocation to the trunk should also post there pictures, that way people can get more idea's on what they want to do. Again, nice job seikx8, and thanks for your pictures.
08-29-2009, 08:45 PM
#66
Just want to add my contribution,
I laid my 2 awg wire along the edge trim with existing OEM wires loom and welded up a battery bracket and bolted it to the right rear strut using the two existing holes along side of the run-flat tire repair kit. The bracket is also bolt down to the trunk floor with rivet nuts/bolts (whatever you call those thing where you can only access the hole from one side of the wall)
I laid my 2 awg wire along the edge trim with existing OEM wires loom and welded up a battery bracket and bolted it to the right rear strut using the two existing holes along side of the run-flat tire repair kit. The bracket is also bolt down to the trunk floor with rivet nuts/bolts (whatever you call those thing where you can only access the hole from one side of the wall)
when I did mine I snaked the cables under the factory fuse box in the engine bay and slid the cables in behind the the factory wiring loom that runs along engine bay/fender, through the firewall boot, around the footwell fuse box, along the sill trim, under the passenger seat, and into the trunk. It was all hidden from view. I did run the negative back to the engine bay though, with several terminal grounds along the way. Never underestimate the value of a good ground.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 08-29-2009 at 08:52 PM.
08-30-2009, 11:49 PM
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I love pictures and this thread realy delivers in the how to. Keep in mind that a lot of tracks wont let you run with out a battery kill swithc on the back of the car. Found out the hard way and they want to see a battery box though they let me by anyways because I had the cut off switch.
09-01-2009, 08:50 AM
#68
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Thank you. Anything that is a DIY should have a crap load of pictures I think. If I wanted to, I could use my wafer style fuses and yank them out for a kill switch
.
.
10-07-2009, 07:43 AM
#70
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Just got done looking at summits selection. Some of them aren't to bad priced, but you'd still have to buy some inline fuses to be on the safe side. I think they have some good starter kits for around $80. I seen the one with 1ga, now that would be a pita to run, 2ga wasn't to bad, but still sucked.
04-26-2010, 05:12 PM
#71
Thread revival:
I will be putting up a Battery to trunk relocatin DIY with a much easier route for the wires. It uses approximately 14' of both 2GA power wire and 4ga ground wire. Basicly there is no reason to run wires all the way into the engine compartment. Also, I think the OP went overboard on the fuses. I beleive all you need is 1 60AMP fuse. I posted a few pics, I have more with the routing.
If there is interest I can put together a group buy for the wiring and maybe even barille batterys and battery mounts. I use the b2015 a 15lbs battery.
I will be putting up a Battery to trunk relocatin DIY with a much easier route for the wires. It uses approximately 14' of both 2GA power wire and 4ga ground wire. Basicly there is no reason to run wires all the way into the engine compartment. Also, I think the OP went overboard on the fuses. I beleive all you need is 1 60AMP fuse. I posted a few pics, I have more with the routing.
If there is interest I can put together a group buy for the wiring and maybe even barille batterys and battery mounts. I use the b2015 a 15lbs battery.
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04-26-2010, 07:52 PM
#72
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You need the 60 amp for eps. You really only need one 100 amp in the main line, but I like to have two that you can access incase of an emergency. How do you not run the wire into the engine compartment?
04-26-2010, 08:08 PM
#73
I have both the power and the ground wire ran under the drivers side of the vehicle and the power connects to the starter (which connects the the main power harness) and the ground goes to the main engine ground (and the main ground wire). So I am connected to the same wires just on the other end of them. No reason to back track. I can run the wires in about 20 min. Under hood took maybe 45 min if I remember correctly.
