Blacknightz

great DIY writeup!!!

orng1

Go watch the video, much more LMAO.

JantzenRX-8

iTrader: (9)

So right now i have three positives (main power, EPS and the one that goes to the fuse box). As far as i can tell there is only a fuse for the EPS. The line that goes to the fuse box I can't imagine the fuse box needing an additional fuse but then again i dont really know. I'm assuming it's probably a good idea to have a fuse on the main power so we're looking at one 100 amp fuse for the main power, one 60 amp fuse for the EPS and a 150 amp breaker back by the battery right? Is the 150 amp breaker optional? Maybe i missed it but i haven't seen any others use a breaker in the rear (maybe an additional fuse but that's it).

PS - my car is all stock as far as electrics go (Bose system).

Chad D.

iTrader: (19)

I thought about a breaker in the back, I just used a fuse because that's what I had. I still may put a breaker in when the weather gets a bit warmer and I have less projects on the go.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You don't need to re-fuse the OEM feeds( they are already fused )...just anything you add to it...

You need a fuse or a breaker as close to the battery as possible to prevent your battery turning your extension wire into a very efficient DC welder

Blacknightz

kind enough to show me the vid? I seem to not find it...

JantzenRX-8

iTrader: (9)

But what if i want to get rid of that ugly terminal/fuse holder(see OP's post #49). I just need to re-fuse the EPS with a 60 amper?

So now a 150 amp breaker by the battery and then a 60 amp fuse for the EPS? If so that just leaves me with how do i connect 3 wires needing power with one power cable? Power distribution block?

So it would be battery-->breaker-->on/off switch (i want mine in the trunk FYI)-->...travel from trunk to hood...-->distribution block-->60 amp fuse and EPS wire connected to the distribution block along side the main and fuse box wires?

But i've always wanted my door welded shut

boarderjosh10

iTrader: (2)

where did you guys get your fused distribution blocks, I cant seem to find any that accept 2 gauge wire and have 3 or 4 outputs for smaller wire

terch1

iTrader: (2)

eBay is probably the cheapest place to find them. I got my distribution block on eBay and the fuses on Amazon.

mehidi@mail.com

hey guys i am about to do a batter relocation as well. i got a kit and some sub wire laying around. my kit is a 0 gauge kit for db link. it came with a power block and a ground block and a fuse block with 250 amps fuse in it.

1)should i use this fuse for the main power line or should i lower it to a 100 amp?
2) i do have the opportunity to run a 2 gauge ground to the back as well. all the way to the back. should i do that instead of using the body for ground?
3) the ground block has 4 ground connections in the front and 2 on the side which are larger. looks like 2 gauge. i can actually connect one of these larger ground input to the chassis and still have the opportunity to run a second ground to the battery. what should it do.
4) how the mother flood pukin do i add pics?

cricha5

Great DIY, thanks. I will be attempting this soon. To be legal for the track, I will be bolting the battery down. Do you guys have any tips on good places to drill and attach the box and battery? The battery must not be held in place only by the box. There must be a physical connection between the battey and car body. J bolts or screws are not ok and I'd rather not use pop rivets, and I can't weld. The bent metal bracket that goes over the top shown in an earlier post was promising, but I could not see how it was attached.

CRO8TIA

I have an ally battery box bolted in the trunk with 4 bolts,2" plates underneath so they dont pull through the sheet metal, I used the original retaining clamp and J bolts , would this not be legal for the track ?

cricha5

It might be legal. The important thing is that you bolted it down. Where and how did you do that? Did you have to drop the fuel tank, etc?

syntheticdarkness

iTrader: (7)

Been a while since I've been on. Good job to everyone who has relocated their batteries, and to the people who improved on the methods. I went to couple SCCA events and mine was legal so I don't know if that helps any. As for the gas tank I didn't drop mine.

Spin9k

add'l con = 2 ga wire is ~.75lbs/ft or 20' = ~15lbs

RX8inSTL

iTrader: (7)

Heres what I have right now. There is a 60 Amp fuse on the EPS line and then 100 Amp fuses for the other two cables, the grounds are both grounded to the main ground.

The battery has a 100 Amp fuse right after the line goes out and then its grounded to the passenger strut tower area. All 1/0 Gauge wire.

Anything I seem to be missing? I believe I have it all correct.

RX8inSTL

iTrader: (7)

Well I was gonna start the car today and when I did I blew the 100 amp main fuse right after the battery. The car started to turn over then it popped.

Can anybody give me some possible reasons or let me know if this happened to them?

Blacknightz

Well, here's mine... I went straight for the 0awg wires, ran the neative straight through the firewall (didnt know it would be a pita process at the time)...

ran along the passenger side (im rhd btw)...

through the rear seats and out to a little neat corner on the right (to balance out the driver's weight on the front left).

Blacknightz

And oh, Odyssey Battery for the win

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

I dont know man. I dont much like the idea of running two red cables off the battery.

Chad D.

iTrader: (19)

Yeah, I'd put some black tape on that in case of emergency and it's not you that has to diconnect the battery.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

it isn't so much the disconnect ... moreso the reconnect lol .. sure as hell dont want that installed backwards.

Blacknightz

If u guys see closely, one of em has a black tape... the other doesnt...

spense8

iTrader: (1)

my engine bay after relocation

FastFreddy61

You would have to be pretty brain dead to reconnect the cables incorrectly, seeing as the negative terminal is smaller than the positive.