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Old 02-15-2008, 02:22 AM
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as to the rest,

wide band, boost, oil temp..

the rest with a hymee scan tool. or any obd2 device..


beers
Old 02-15-2008, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by CnnmnSchnpps
The water temp gauge is useless... Once it starts to climb your engine is already on its way out...
really - how do you know this ?

Originally Posted by CnnmnSchnpps
The oil pressure gauge in the dash is just for show. It does not even connect to a sensor...
are you sure about that ?
Old 02-15-2008, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by swoope
west palm beach????? anything to do with efidude?

cool stuff..

beers

EFIDUDE? Not sure who that is

Zietronix is pretty popular with the DSM and EVO guys. I had one in my EVO and loved it. Great for datalogging too.
Old 02-15-2008, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by GearGuy07
EFIDUDE? Not sure who that is

Zietronix is pretty popular with the DSM and EVO guys. I had one in my EVO and loved it. Great for datalogging too.
looks like really cool stuff,

just the flash tuning bang went off last night..

not sure if your guy was involved with it..

beers
Old 02-15-2008, 09:03 AM
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Naah a guy I know over at TTP Engineering turned me on to this product a few years back. Its a great set up. I have a bunch of gauges in my evo and honestly it clutters up the inside of the car. I went with a cleaner look when I got my ZT2.
Old 02-15-2008, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
really - how do you know this ?
It's only discussed in every single gauge thread, lol... Driving in this morning I've paid extra attention and the stock water temp gauge settles as soon as you reach 157*F then does not move at all. I have seen my car go to 210*F with the stock needle still in the same place.


Originally Posted by Brettus
are you sure about that ?
Yes
Old 02-15-2008, 11:09 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by CnnmnSchnpps
It's only discussed in every single gauge thread, lol... Driving in this morning I've paid extra attention and the stock water temp gauge settles as soon as you reach 157*F then does not move at all. I have seen my car go to 210*F with the stock needle still in the same place.
Yes
I was meaning - how do you know the engine will blow before the guage moves ? How many cases do you know of where this has happened ?
Pretty much all modern OEM temp gauges do the same thing - and there is a reason for it . Aside from the extra room a proper gauge would take up , if there was a gauge that gave a true reading the average joe would keep complaining about how it was all over the place . I think you will find the needle WILL move before the motor gets to dangerously high temps - it is just that very few of us have ever had the motor that hot .

With regard to the oil press gauge - you have me intrigued about that . Are you sure there is not a pressure switch somewhere on the engine that just sends a on/off signal to the gauge ?

If you can imagine what an engineering design team would want of the OEM gauges you can see why they designed them the way they do .
design criteria
Water temp : OK people we need a gauge that fits this little area here and for f**ks sake make it so that it just stays in one position once the engine is warmed up otherwise there will be panic amongst the masses . Just make sure the bloody thing warns people if the motor gets hot enough to blow up .
Oil pressure :OK people we need a gauge that fits this little area here and for f**ks sake make it so that it just stays in one position once the engine is running otherwise there will be panic amongst the masses . Just make sure the bloody thing warns people if there is no oil pressure at all.

Last edited by Brettus; 02-15-2008 at 11:25 AM.
Old 02-15-2008, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
I was meaning - how do you know the engine will blow before the guage moves ? How many cases do you know of where this has happened ?
Pretty much all modern OEM temp gauges do the same thing - and there is a reason for it . Aside from the extra room a proper gauge would take up , if there was a gauge that gave a true reading the average joe would keep complaining about how it was all over the place . I think you will find the needle WILL move before the motor gets to dangerously high temps - it is just that very few of us have ever had the motor that hot .

With regard to the oil press gauge - you have me intrigued about that . Are you sure there is not a pressure switch somewhere on the engine that just sends a on/off signal to the gauge ?

If you can imagine what an engineering design team would want of the OEM gauges you can see why they designed them the way they do .
design criteria
Water temp : OK people we need a gauge that fits this little area here and for f**ks sake make it so that it just stays in one position once the engine is warmed up otherwise there will be panic amongst the masses . Just make sure the bloody thing warns people if the motor gets hot enough to blow up .
Oil pressure :OK people we need a gauge that fits this little area here and for f**ks sake make it so that it just stays in one position once the engine is running otherwise there will be panic amongst the masses . Just make sure the bloody thing warns people if there is no oil pressure at all.
Good points on the water temp. I'm not sure what temperature it starts to move at exactly but I have heard several people say that by the time it moves you're running way too hot. Maybe MM can comment on this, IIRC one of this rebuilds was due to overheating.

For the oil pressure - funny thing is, my gauge DOES move around, seemingly at random. There was a thread somewhere here on trying to make the OEM gauge into a real functional gauge...
Old 02-15-2008, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CnnmnSchnpps
Good points on the water temp. I'm not sure what temperature it starts to move at exactly but I have heard several people say that by the time it moves you're running way too hot. Maybe MM can comment on this, IIRC one of this rebuilds was due to overheating.

For the oil pressure - funny thing is, my gauge DOES move around, seemingly at random. There was a thread somewhere here on trying to make the OEM gauge into a real functional gauge...
at 240 degrees F the water temp doesn't move.
Old 02-15-2008, 02:38 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by staticlag
at 240 degrees F the water temp doesn't move.
Thanks! At that temp some corrective action is necessary (which of course won't happen if you don't know the real temps )
Old 02-15-2008, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by staticlag
at 240 degrees F the water temp doesn't move.
Well I agree - that is definately where you should see something - how did you test this Static ?
Old 02-15-2008, 06:03 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
Well I agree - that is definately where you should see something - how did you test this Static ?
I was on the track. It was getting towards the upper 90s ambient and I was watching my temps pretty closely. Water temp just kept rising with the stock radiator it was 220-230 and I was still running it Then one lap I suck some air because I was getting low on gas and I look down and its brimming 235 on its way up. No coolant lights or anything. I put it in 6th after that and took a few cooldown laps and called it a day.

But I've never really gone above 220 on the street or autox. So unless you plan on hammering it for a while on the track you could probably get away with no temp gauge.
Old 02-15-2008, 07:22 PM
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with the stock water pump, I saw 219 on an agressive canyon run. Stock needle hadn't moved at all.
Old 02-15-2008, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jedi54
with the stock water pump, I saw 219 on an agressive canyon run. Stock needle hadn't moved at all.
thing is the fans don't come on full till 214 anyway so you would have to think a few degrees above that would be ok for the motor . Otherwise Mazda would have set them to come on at a lower temp .
Maybe - just maybe - Mazda did a bit of R&D on this ......
Old 02-15-2008, 07:37 PM
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I wasn't worried about the temps, just pointing out that the OEM gauge isn't very quick to react to temp changes.

Needle does not move at all (on my car) from 155 degrees to 220. At best I'd call it "semi-functional"
Old 02-16-2008, 04:52 AM
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the again, mazda didnt put turbos on the 8 either a good temp gauge is really good insurance...
Old 02-16-2008, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
thing is the fans don't come on full till 214 anyway so you would have to think a few degrees above that would be ok for the motor . Otherwise Mazda would have set them to come on at a lower temp .
Maybe - just maybe - Mazda did a bit of R&D on this ......
The fans don't come on until 214 F on the water temp? Mine come on lower than this, at least according to the scangauge readings.
Old 02-16-2008, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mdw1000
The fans don't come on until 214 F on the water temp? Mine come on lower than this, at least according to the scangauge readings.
I think one fan comes on at 98C and the other at 101C (214F) - if my memory serves me .
Unless of course you have the Mazsport fan mod .
Old 03-15-2008, 03:41 AM
  #44  
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I guess Im going with the RB ashtray kit for $450 but would like to put the aem boost/controller & the aem afr in the a-pillar..Ive been searching on here all night and google..and cant find any a-pillar pods for the 8 besides the carbontrix for $250. Does anyone even make a 2pod for the a-pillar on the 8 ?
Old 03-15-2008, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Gauge
I guess Im going with the RB ashtray kit for $450 but would like to put the aem boost/controller & the aem afr in the a-pillar..Ive been searching on here all night and google..and cant find any a-pillar pods for the 8 besides the carbontrix for $250. Does anyone even make a 2pod for the a-pillar on the 8 ?
i just want to let you know that i am trying to put 3 AEM gauges (AFR, truboost, oil temp). it has a problem with the third gauge. it doesn't fit due to the big face of AEM gauges. so, i advice you to buy autometer if you want to buy RB pod. just some advice before you are in my situation. no i have to modify it. i will take a pic soon to let you see it.
steven
Old 03-16-2008, 11:44 PM
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Thanks but Im buying the complete RB ashtray kit with thier gauges, Im wanting to put the AEM's on the pillar.
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