mdw33333

I was the first on this forum to have the "Green Filter" months ago. I've been running it with no problems, had the reflash, still no problems. After the Stage 1... problems...

mdw33333

This detonation issue has never once occurred without the Stage 1 or 1.1 installed. That's the bottom line here.

Genom

Yeah, I have a Greddy exhaust. Stock intake as well.

I redlined it a whole bunch of times right now that I was out for a bit and didnt hesitate at all. Car feels very strong and it's much easier to break the rear end loose. It definitely feels a lot stronger down lower in the 3000RPM range.

RXhusker

So if you replace the stock filter and Stage 1.1 and have no problems is it still an issue with CZ's mod? Or would you blame the Green Filter?

As I have said -- you don't know enough to make the presumptions you are making. It may be a combination of factors -- it may be a faulty CZ unit -- it may have been improper installation -- it may have been ...

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Well, no.
The bottom line is that a confluence of the CZ box, the newest PCM flash and, perhaps, other unidentified factors have led to what we are assuming is detonation based on your description of the issue.
Though it is unlikely that the air filter is contributing, it is a factor that shouldn't be ignored.
The possibility that you have bad gas (ie - performing below rated octane or over-oxygenated) is a very significant contributing factor.

Once again, I'd like to reiterate that you need to try some known good, high-octane gas and report back.

PUR NRG

Let's assume for the moment that you're having detonation problems, which seems likely. From what you have said you can not say the problem lies solely with canzoomer's chip.

Hypothetical example:
Let's say the stock engine runs at 90 "units". It takes 100+ units to reach detonation. If each change (filter, L-flash, canzoomer's chip) adds 4 units, then any two will be fine. It's only when you add the third that the entire system goes past 100. Therefore saying the problem is entirely caused by the last item added isn't correct. All you can say is all three in combination caused a problem.

Keep in mind that is a hypothetical example but should serve to illustrate what other people mean when they say you can't conclusively prove it's the canzoomer chip at this point. You'd have to experiment by removing the filter and only using the L-flash and chip.
________
VAPIR NO2 VAPORIZER

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

If A then B
If A then C
Can you conclude:
If B then C?

No. Is does not follow.

Sea Ray

Hey guys, mine is sitting on my desk right now. No paperwork, instructions, packing list, nothing. But there is the little foam pieces used to block some holes. I know I can look at the installation thread but a hardcopy would be nice, and expected.

Next question, and someone else pointed this out, there is no label on the switch. Which way is off & on??

mdw33333

I'm no RotaryGod, but I've been in the automotive industry for ten years. I'm damn capable of istalling this mod. Hell, at this point, I can do it with my eyes closed. Your "combination of factors" theory is valid, however, when designing it, didn't CZ take into consideration that guys would do intake upgrades? I'm sure he did, but judging by what occurred in my car, there are obvious "glitches" left to be dealt with on the Stage 1 and now the Stage 1.1

mdw33333

The straight line represents "ON." The circle with the line through it represents "OFF."

mdw33333

By the way, for those interested, I've been running 92-93 octane since I bought this car. The gas I'm currently running is from Speedway.

shebam

If there's no marking, it's on when it's toward the short, or "back" end (where there's an additional screw).

shebam

I simply saved the posted pictorial instructions to the desktop of my laptop; they are quite good. Re the initial step of detaching the plastic screw holding down some wires before you open the ECU box, just pry the secrew up with a flat blade rather than trying to compress the bottom of it with a pliers. Also re the side clips on the box, a little WD40 helps get them apart. Mating and unmating the plastic parts without cracking anything is the only real time-eater.

Sea Ray

Ok, I re-read the instructions and it is pretty simple. I think it would be a good idea to have made 'plugs/caps' for the unused ports on the stage1 unit.

But I hope to have it in and running by 6:30 tonight and will report back.

islandsoon

Better slow down a bit fellas...

mdw3333 reports trouble with "clank". Thinks its stage 1. RXGuy had "clank" when using aftermarket filter, no stage 1. hav runs a green filter and aftermarket exhaust with "L" and experienced the "clank". SeaRay had the "clank" with "L" and midgrade gas. Bit early to hook your horse to stage 1.1 being the problem. . Canzoomer and others report smooth operation with "L" and stage 1. Seem like there are quite a few out there with stage 1 or stage 1.1 without troubles.

islandsoon

Not sure you are right on this, or at least things may have changed. The switch needs to be moved closed to the big electrical connector (rear of car) to be on stage 1. On my unit, there are two positions to the switch. With the switch to the rear (correct) position, no symbol is exposed. Switched to the front (stage one off) away from the large white connector, the unit is back to running stock and has what looks like a circle with a line through it exposed.
BTW... You mentioned in an earlier post that your car is stronger without the stage 1 mod, runs smoother and stronger without the mod. With all the folks saying the stage 1 is the cats meow, it sure makes me wonder if you might have a bad unit?

mdw33333

Ok, the car (to me) runs smoother without the mod. The car (to me) SEEMS stronger without the mod. Dyno and gtech readings have shown this mod increase hp, and I'm not debating that. Hell, thats why I bought the damn thing. But, (and this is a big BUT) the car (to me) just doesn't feel faster with the mod.

It's been hard for me to sometimes put into words my assessment of this mod's effects on therunning of this car. I can only say that I don't care for the way it sounds or runs with the mod. I say that leaving the detontation issue out of the equation. Factor in the detonation issue, and it's definitely, bye, bye Stage 1.

islandsoon

No problem there mdw3333, I think I would do the same if I were you. You would have to have a VERY forgiving wife and a lot of dough if you can afford to dump your engine playing around looking for a dash of power. I for one am hoping you got stuck with a bad unit. What are the flys in the ointment to me are the couple of other folks reporting the "clang" when not even running stage 1.

What do you mean when you say you don't like the way it sounds with stage 1 turned on? I can't tell any difference in the sound.

mdw33333

Well, it definitly took a "bite" out of my exhaust note. I kinda like the louder note. It's not obnoxious, but it sounds "throatier" without the mod.

Yeah, my wife has had issues with me and this car since I got it and started mods on it. She is aware of this latest news with the Stage 1, and I'm hearing "I told you so," from her.

islandsoon

Found this old post from Canzoomer;
Snip>>>>>>
One thing to be careful of:

A couple of people who installed the K&N have told me about issues with rough running.

Apparently the intake is being disturbed and producing turbulence. This , in turn, is causing the MAF to get some varying readings.

I am REALLY nervous about this, so I request people NOT use the Stage1 kit with the K&N until we have had a chance to test one with it under some instrumentation.

Thanks!
END of Snip>>>>>>>>>>>

hmmm.....
Mdw runs green filter
RXguy runs aftermarket filter
SeaRay filter????
hav uses green filter

So we have:
One running the stage 1
three using the "L" update
three using an aftermarket filter.

adrian-1

I would definitely have the dealership check for codes and run some diagnostic tests.
If it was happening before the flash and stage 1.1 then something is wrong with your car. Stage 1.1 may just be intensifying the problem, since the it changes the fuel maps.
Could be the intake ports not opening at the higher RPMs.

mqandil

mdw33333 sorry to hear about your trouble. I would have to agree with Adrian that you probably need to check your car, as it may have other issues that are intensifying with the use of CZ stage 1 or 1.1.
It is also very reassuring to know that Maurice is standing behind his product, and isreturning your money back. For some of us who had the pleasure of speaking with him, we know that he won't let his customers down. Before arriving to conclusions I wish we all take one step back, and wait for CZ's response. I am sure he is looking into it. While this board is an excellent tool to find information, but it sure can ruin someone's career in a second. mdw3333 I am truely sorry for what happened to you, and I do understand your fears and concerns. For the rest, let's wait for CZ's answer, and as for me I still want mine, and is still waiting for it, and I have full confidence that CZ will back me up.
Good luck to all

Mark

zoom44

MAF MAF MAF. problems always seem to come back to the MAF. at least that is the way it seems to me.

Lock & Load

DITTO

As most of us all have total faith in Maurice and his stage 1;1 .

If one unit is not working correctly, in a modified rx8 with intakes , different exhausts , possible crappy petrol does not make a product redunded .

Be patient all will be revealed .( Grasshoopers )

cheers
michael

adrian-1

OK. so you DIDN"T have any problems before stage 1 or 1.1?
Could be faulty unit or the combinations of 1.1 w/ other stuff (intake/ reflash (which CZ had no problems with).
Or may be the intake/MAF on the 8, since it seems very sensitive.

Have to wait for other users and their experiences.