spark plugs
05-31-2007, 12:51 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
spark plugs
i am replacing my plugs and wires what is the torque i need to use on the plugs? I found something that said like 150lbs and that seems insane to me
06-01-2007, 10:19 AM
#8
Read to succeed please...
Join Date: May 2006
Location: QC, NC
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
06-01-2007, 12:01 PM
#9
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
yeah, don't over torque these bad boys. I've heard stories of lead plugs being pushed in / tightened too far and the apex seal coming around and tearing the top of the plug off! 
Anti-seize is definitely your friend.
Anti-seize is definitely your friend.
06-01-2007, 01:08 PM
#11
Its as easy as changing a light bulb, its just that you have to jack ur car up for easier access, a little dirty, and some time.
I did mine for maybe 30 minutes. cuz bastards at the dealership didnt use any anti-seize when they did the engine no start tsb, I was afraid that I might break the thread and fuxk everything up. lucky it turns out to be ok.
got new plugs and RB wires. no issues. will replace the plugs again maybe after 20K miles. wires maybe another 40 K
06-01-2007, 06:16 PM
#13
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
06-02-2007, 08:25 AM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well ill let ya know how it goes. Should be easy. So yuo guys think 10 to 12 lbs or torque is the magic number. Alson anyone using the 10mm magnecore wires?
06-02-2007, 08:32 AM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
cornrowdpantha if you want not this Sunday but next is when i intend on doing this. IF you want bring ur 8 over and we can tag team the two of em together. Let me know
06-02-2007, 03:16 PM
#18
I have been running Magnecore wires. No complaints here. 
The 10 MM ones have the same wire inside with a thicker covering. A bit overkill since our exhaust manifold is on the opposite side of the engine.
An old school trick to tell if your current wires are bad is to lightly mist around the current wires when the engine is running. If you see a lightning show then the current wires should be replaced because the jacket on the wires has cracks.
The 10 MM ones have the same wire inside with a thicker covering. A bit overkill since our exhaust manifold is on the opposite side of the engine.
An old school trick to tell if your current wires are bad is to lightly mist around the current wires when the engine is running. If you see a lightning show then the current wires should be replaced because the jacket on the wires has cracks.
06-05-2007, 08:25 AM
#20
Read to succeed please...
Join Date: May 2006
Location: QC, NC
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I found this in the DIY: spark plug removal thread. Seems to be on point, so...
Just received my new plugs from sparkplugs.com and noticed the part # for the leading plug was different than what is called out in the workshop manual. It also has notches in the end that I hadn't noticed in any pictures before.
RE7A-L vs. RE7C-L
The following explains the difference (copied from sparkplugs.com)
NGK: Racing plug
14mm thread, 21mm reach, 20.6mm(13/16") hex, 62mm height, Trailing plug, solid terminal, notched shell aids cleaning, fine wire, (.08mm) iridium center electrode, fine wire platinum ground electrode .048" gap (1.2mm)
Original equipment, fine wire plug designed to give you optimum spark from your existing ignition system. Slightly recessed fine wire iridium center electrode requires less voltage to ionize(jump) the plug gap. This allows a stronger spark which will better ignite the air fuel mixture leading to more power. The iridium center and platinum ground electrodes for extreme durability. Fine wire platinum ground electrode to reduce quenching. This plug is improved over the RE7AL as the shell has been notched to reduce fouling and improve cold starting.
NGK Racing plug 6700 RE7CL $19.95
I'll be putting these in tomorrow morning. My car is a December, 2003 build date with 30K miles and has had several different flashes.
RE7A-L vs. RE7C-L
The following explains the difference (copied from sparkplugs.com)
NGK: Racing plug
14mm thread, 21mm reach, 20.6mm(13/16") hex, 62mm height, Trailing plug, solid terminal, notched shell aids cleaning, fine wire, (.08mm) iridium center electrode, fine wire platinum ground electrode .048" gap (1.2mm)
Original equipment, fine wire plug designed to give you optimum spark from your existing ignition system. Slightly recessed fine wire iridium center electrode requires less voltage to ionize(jump) the plug gap. This allows a stronger spark which will better ignite the air fuel mixture leading to more power. The iridium center and platinum ground electrodes for extreme durability. Fine wire platinum ground electrode to reduce quenching. This plug is improved over the RE7AL as the shell has been notched to reduce fouling and improve cold starting.
NGK Racing plug 6700 RE7CL $19.95
I'll be putting these in tomorrow morning. My car is a December, 2003 build date with 30K miles and has had several different flashes.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post