DarkBrew

Nice gift! I gave one as a gift but I had to buy my own.

Raptor75

Same here, getting ready to set it up. The thing I would really like to see in the Air-Fuel ratio. Could this be accessed through the Xguage?

rotaryPilot

I think that for fully warm up you need to check the oil temp and not the water temp. Water temp reaches operating temp faster than oil temp. As a result, it is not good idea to push your car just having as reference the water temp because the oil would not have reached the operating temp.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

exactly---water warms up much faster--by oem water temp gauge the car seems to be warmed up but the actual oil temp at that time is below 130F.
oldscdragger

DarkBrew

Actually the Scan gauge water temp reading takes a much longer to reach operating range than the OEM gauge. That said I agree with your statements (but don't have an OT gauge yet).

DarkBrew

I entered the O2, short term and long term fuel trim codes today....
I wish I knew what the readings mean. I want to get the AFR somehow. Any ideas?

nmarz77

The long and short term trims can come in handy to help diagnose an overly rich or lean running condition in closed loop. Basically the long term trim is how much % fuel(averaged over time from short term trim) is added or taken away from the base map to get closest to a stoich mixture. Think of short term trim as a fine tune which is constantly changing to try to achieve a stoich mixture for the current conditions. You can play around with this and see the changes being made by pulling a vacuum hose(at idle ONLY) and watching the short term numbers increase fuel to the engine at idle. After 5-10 minutes you wil notice that the long term fuel trims will re-adjust and then the short term trims will show less of an increase after. Then re-attach the hose and watch the trims lean back out. Just remember to re-attach the vacuum hose and do NOT drive the vehicle with it off.

I thought there was a code for the O2 readings???

Raptor75

I think the oil temp is irrelevant to the engine warming up. What you really want to know before you push the engine is if all metal parts have heated up and expanded to proper operating tolerances. The fact that the water circulates through the block will make it the best indicator of when the engine is in tolerance. The oil has little bearing here, this is obviously why Mazda does not look at the oil temp.

Raptor75

So a 0% reading would be a theoretical perfect running condition?

DarkBrew

I said that I entered the O2 code but wanted the AFR code...

My short term is close to 0 after warm up and long term ends up at 2 or 3
My fuel fill-up calibration is set to a bit over 10%
O2 reads all over the place depending on engine load.

Anyone else??

nmarz77

Oh sorry....I read the O2 thing wrong.

DarkBrew

Time to try some gauges...

Thanks to Ron at LL

nmarz77

Well if you are asking about the long term and short term both reading 0 then yes....but I highly doubt you would ever see that condition.

Raptor75

Understood, just wanted to confirm I understand the concept. I'll have to set these up.

Also is the trip MPG accurate for you guys?

DarkBrew

If you follow the instructions for setting it up then it's quite accurate.
The one problem I had with mine was regarding the fuel cutoff setting which caused the fuel flow reading to drop to 0.0 in high speed cruise. Follow Ron's advice from post #111 and yours will work.

mdw1000

Thanks for posting the pdf with the explanations of the commands. That is good stuff to know.

nmarz77

Got mine on Friday. Not so sure about the HP reading though. It seems to spike when shifting up to as much as 300HP which obviously is not correct.

I did however find something very interesting about the readings when I was testing certain configurations. I noticed that with my front windshield defroster on(Runs the A/C unit) my HP readings were consistantly between 269-279HP. When I switched off the defroster my HP readings lowered to 249-259HP. I also tested the HP with DSC and without and also with it totally deactivated and HP readings were the same with all these conditions.

Does anyone have a data logger that might be able to record what might be going on here with regards to the A/C? If not, I should be getting the OBDScan soon as I was told they were releasing a package including a ECU reprogrammer the second week of January which I am waiting for.

rx8dorifto

iTrader: (1)

my HP reading was 438 fully stock with only Supercat.

I got a super 8? haha...the HP reading certainly not correct!

auzoom

I think mazda must have used one of these for their HP figures!

mdw1000

It could be 300. It is reporting gross HP, not brake HP, which is what the manufacturer will quote. Scangauge tech support told me gross is usually about 25% higher than brake. I've seen 284 on my car, which would be roughly 25% higher than the 205 bhp or so I am probably at now. I'm sure it's not 100 percent accurate, but I could see 300 ghp for an MT. Not 400 though

Raptor75

Not sure if everyone is doing this but you'll want to increase the sample rate to high. You get much quicker reading of the data, makes the instant MPG more useful along with a number of the other gauges.

Still having trouble with the trip MPG, tells me I'm getting 17MPG when I am getting about 12MPG. Any idea what this could be?

DarkBrew

Did you not read the instructions?
The obvious one is the tank volume.
Also you need to fill up the tank and select fill up from the Scan gauge menu. Always complete the entries up to save but don't update the fuel volume yet.
At the next fill up after that you do the same steps but this time you set the amount of fuel the scan gauge thinks was used to the actual amount used.
You need to set the idle cutoff to around 16 before you do the fuel calibration. See post #111

Raptor75

Read and understood.

Tank volume was entered, and I haven't filled up yet since installation so the remained could not be done. I would assume the scan gauge MPG trip info would be calculated off the fuel delivery and mileage driven to calculate MPG, true?

DarkBrew

True, but you need to calibrate the fuel flow reading. Just fill up early and by the next tank you can adjust your figures. Don't forget the cutoff setting.

Raptor75

I just filled up today and told the SG that the car was filled up (13.7 gallons). I noticed today that the Scan Gauge now reports that my idea consumption is around .87 GPH. Before the fill up and me telling that to the SG the SG was showing about .40 GPH of fuel consumed. This bothers me because I would expect the SG to get a acurete figure from the cars compunter of how much fuel is being used with out external input. Is my understanding here incorrect?