RX-8 N/A Engine Modification
#1
RX-8 N/A Engine Modification
I have 2008 Rx-8. My current mods are Re-amemiya header and Amuse catback exhaust, HKS Racing Suction. I want to have more HP on my car without having turbo. Only N/A Mods. What are the full lists that I could add to it?
#4
You should do a research on the board.
Power wise on a NA car you could switch back to the stock intake or get an AEM cold air intake, remove the catalytic converter or replace it with a sports one.
Better coils, fresh plugs, lightweight flywheel should also help. Get an accessPORT.
There's not much that you can do.
Power wise on a NA car you could switch back to the stock intake or get an AEM cold air intake, remove the catalytic converter or replace it with a sports one.
Better coils, fresh plugs, lightweight flywheel should also help. Get an accessPORT.
There's not much that you can do.
#6
Registered Zoom Zoomer
iTrader: (2)
Ported & polished and stroked & bored... well, at least ported and polished. But as cited potentially more costly than going FI.
The most cost effective NA enhancements are:
CobbAP with a MazdaManiac tune.
BHR Ignition system
High-Flo Cat (e.g. RP SuperCat)
eBay Chip (j/k)
The most cost effective NA enhancements are:
CobbAP with a MazdaManiac tune.
BHR Ignition system
High-Flo Cat (e.g. RP SuperCat)
eBay Chip (j/k)
#8
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
Porting would cost you $500~$700, and the access port would cost you $600 with MM's tuning. That's a good bit less than FI, porting is pretty unproven ground until I can get my motor together and dynoed. Even mine wont stay NA unless by some ridiculous miracle I got 300+ HP (not happening).
I think the most you could hope for NA if you just had money to waste would be 250~260 HP tops. If you are realistically looking for more than about 220 HP, you'll need FI.
I think the most you could hope for NA if you just had money to waste would be 250~260 HP tops. If you are realistically looking for more than about 220 HP, you'll need FI.
#10
Registered
#11
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
tuning.
tuning
more tuning
tuning
more tuning
#13
Huge hole is huge
A Cold Air Intake would be where I start first. That will easily net you 15 to 20 extra HP.
You should get a new Cam. Maybe even some new valves, since the ones that come stock with the car are pretty brittle, and don't handle the extra HP your new CAI is going to add.
Putting Octane Booster in your gas tank *up to 103 Octane...* has been proven to increase 5 to 10 HP on the dyno. Very cheap extra HP if you're going to the drag strip.
With those starter mods, you should be getting to the mid to high 13's easy.
You should get a new Cam. Maybe even some new valves, since the ones that come stock with the car are pretty brittle, and don't handle the extra HP your new CAI is going to add.
Putting Octane Booster in your gas tank *up to 103 Octane...* has been proven to increase 5 to 10 HP on the dyno. Very cheap extra HP if you're going to the drag strip.
With those starter mods, you should be getting to the mid to high 13's easy.
#14
A Cold Air Intake would be where I start first. That will easily net you 15 to 20 extra HP.
You should get a new Cam. Maybe even some new valves, since the ones that come stock with the car are pretty brittle, and don't handle the extra HP your new CAI is going to add.
Putting Octane Booster in your gas tank *up to 103 Octane...* has been proven to increase 5 to 10 HP on the dyno. Very cheap extra HP if you're going to the drag strip.
With those starter mods, you should be getting to the mid to high 13's easy.
You should get a new Cam. Maybe even some new valves, since the ones that come stock with the car are pretty brittle, and don't handle the extra HP your new CAI is going to add.
Putting Octane Booster in your gas tank *up to 103 Octane...* has been proven to increase 5 to 10 HP on the dyno. Very cheap extra HP if you're going to the drag strip.
With those starter mods, you should be getting to the mid to high 13's easy.
Are you joking, smoking, or doing both? :P
#16
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
You need to enable that hidden VTEC option in the ECU. It adds another 30 hp to the Engine.
Get in your car, close your door.
Turn your key to on , do NOT start the engine, then off, repeat this for 3 times. (leave key in ignition)
Then open and close your door for another 3 times.
Turn your key to on again
Then turn your radio on (if you dont have stock head unit, put it back on) and tune it to AM 1480
Turn it off.
Then Turn your key to on and off again,
Get out of the car
Close the door,
Press lock on your remote
Go into your house, find that packet of Koolaid you brought when you were 5, mix it with warm water, add ice, drink it
Congratulations ! You just enabled that VTEC function in your ECU !
Now you can proudly tell the Honda guys that you just got another 30 hp by ...
VTEC JUST KICKED IN y0!
Get in your car, close your door.
Turn your key to on , do NOT start the engine, then off, repeat this for 3 times. (leave key in ignition)
Then open and close your door for another 3 times.
Turn your key to on again
Then turn your radio on (if you dont have stock head unit, put it back on) and tune it to AM 1480
Turn it off.
Then Turn your key to on and off again,
Get out of the car
Close the door,
Press lock on your remote
Go into your house, find that packet of Koolaid you brought when you were 5, mix it with warm water, add ice, drink it
Congratulations ! You just enabled that VTEC function in your ECU !
Now you can proudly tell the Honda guys that you just got another 30 hp by ...
VTEC JUST KICKED IN y0!
#18
Boostin'
Porting would cost you $500~$700, and the access port would cost you $600 with MM's tuning. That's a good bit less than FI, porting is pretty unproven ground until I can get my motor together and dynoed. Even mine wont stay NA unless by some ridiculous miracle I got 300+ HP (not happening).
I think the most you could hope for NA if you just had money to waste would be 250~260 HP tops. If you are realistically looking for more than about 220 HP, you'll need FI.
I think the most you could hope for NA if you just had money to waste would be 250~260 HP tops. If you are realistically looking for more than about 220 HP, you'll need FI.
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=88
Its always been hard to make a LOT of power being n/a. Most guys go the nitrous route..
#19
My 8 looks like a Smurf
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
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We only charge $299 for porting alone( no rebuild ).
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=88
Its always been hard to make a LOT of power being n/a. Most guys go the nitrous route..
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=88
Its always been hard to make a LOT of power being n/a. Most guys go the nitrous route..
#20
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
rtjhe:
why must you CONTINUE to always create multiple threads about the same thing?
Do you realize that is against the Forum Rules ?
Hopefully a mod / admin will assist.
why must you CONTINUE to always create multiple threads about the same thing?
Do you realize that is against the Forum Rules ?
Hopefully a mod / admin will assist.
#22
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
We only charge $299 for porting alone( no rebuild ).
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=88
Its always been hard to make a LOT of power being n/a. Most guys go the nitrous route..
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=88
Its always been hard to make a LOT of power being n/a. Most guys go the nitrous route..
#24
Rotorheaded Geek
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Manchester,NH
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I've heard from creditable sources that there isn't much that can be done as far as porting the Renesis engine due to the proximity of the water jacket. There is power in the N/A as shown by Eric Meyer and others but it takes time and often a little engineering.
PS: if ya want some real N/A power, P-Port the engine :p tho some re-working of the EFI system would be in-store or a switch to a nice Weber downdraft.
PS: if ya want some real N/A power, P-Port the engine :p tho some re-working of the EFI system would be in-store or a switch to a nice Weber downdraft.
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