Racing Beat Header Update
12-19-2008, 03:35 PM
#377
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...with shoelaces untied
12-19-2008, 09:19 PM
#378
I don't buy Kool-Aid
Cons:
-Not a 15 minute install like on a 1st gen or a miata.
-It's not visible enough to show it off.
Pros:
-Absolutely beautiful design and craftsmanship, there are details that are very well thought out.
-Lighter than the stock manifold, sorry, didn't weigh it.
-Haven't driven it much or heard it at WOT from the outside but I think it might be quieter than the stock manifold. I also have the RB race pipe installed.
-Included hardware and instructions are well done. Follow the instructions the first time. Don't be stupid like me and think that you can take shortcuts. Their instructions work! (Hey, I'm a guy, I don't ask for directions either)
-Fitment on the car is like any other RB product, like OEM.
-Value. Having fabricated headers in the past I was more than happy to pay the price for this one.
-----------------------------------
No, I don't have a dyno or flow testing. RB usually gives conservative numbers and I'm sure that certain mods will allow more or less gain.
-Not a 15 minute install like on a 1st gen or a miata.
-It's not visible enough to show it off.
Pros:
-Absolutely beautiful design and craftsmanship, there are details that are very well thought out.
-Lighter than the stock manifold, sorry, didn't weigh it.
-Haven't driven it much or heard it at WOT from the outside but I think it might be quieter than the stock manifold. I also have the RB race pipe installed.
-Included hardware and instructions are well done. Follow the instructions the first time. Don't be stupid like me and think that you can take shortcuts. Their instructions work! (Hey, I'm a guy, I don't ask for directions either)
-Fitment on the car is like any other RB product, like OEM.
-Value. Having fabricated headers in the past I was more than happy to pay the price for this one.
-----------------------------------
No, I don't have a dyno or flow testing. RB usually gives conservative numbers and I'm sure that certain mods will allow more or less gain.
12-20-2008, 10:50 AM
#382
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
RB always under estimates their HP.
12-21-2008, 06:21 PM
#386
I don't buy Kool-Aid
Search 4yearstosupercharge he talks about it in his thread and many others had the same issue. Not a big deal just that the oem o2 is like over $100.00!!!
12-21-2008, 06:23 PM
#387
I don't buy Kool-Aid
12-21-2008, 07:01 PM
#388
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Its a bitch if you dont have a lift. I would not do it unless you have a extra o2 cuz the oem one tends to not come off the oem/exhaust manifold header what ever you want to call it
Search 4yearstosupercharge he talks about it in his thread and many others had the same issue. Not a big deal just that the oem o2 is like over $100.00!!!
Search 4yearstosupercharge he talks about it in his thread and many others had the same issue. Not a big deal just that the oem o2 is like over $100.00!!!
There are different methods for removing the o2 sensor. Our 5.5 year old sensor came loose with a little bit of grunt on an open end wrench, didn't even have to spray it with PB Blaster. The other option is to get an o2 sensor socket set from Autozone or other store that loans tools.
No before and after dyno or gps runs, but seat of the pants it feels at least equal if not better on the low end. It's hard to tell since the low end was significantly raised by the race pipe, LS2 coils and tuning.
12-22-2008, 04:33 PM
#389
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Location: 30° 0'2.66"N 90° 9'7.46"W
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If it wasn't the hardest install, but any job if difficult if you don't have the right tools. You WILL need impact wrenches with long extensions, flex knuckles and a torque wrench and a cheater bar. I recommend a half-inch drive.
As far as the O2 sensor removal, it should come loose, fairly easily if you us a long enough wrench. Remember torque = force x distance, the loner the wrench, the more torque you can apply to loosen the sensor.
12-23-2008, 10:05 AM
#390
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BTW, remember to check the vacuum connection to the air injection control diaphragm after you finish the install. It can come loose as you are moving the lower end of the air injection pipe to fit the headers in place.
If the vacuum line comes loose, you will get a MIL/CEL .
If the vacuum line comes loose, you will get a MIL/CEL .
12-23-2008, 10:06 PM
#391
I don't buy Kool-Aid
I don't see a lift being that helpful over jack stands. You need to get under the car, into the wheel well and under the hood. If you are using a lift you still need some kind of jack to lift the motor a bit. Jack stands work fine. The install isn't bad, just follow the instructions.
There are different methods for removing the o2 sensor. Our 5.5 year old sensor came loose with a little bit of grunt on an open end wrench, didn't even have to spray it with PB Blaster. The other option is to get an o2 sensor socket set from Autozone or other store that loans tools.
No before and after dyno or gps runs, but seat of the pants it feels at least equal if not better on the low end. It's hard to tell since the low end was significantly raised by the race pipe, LS2 coils and tuning.
There are different methods for removing the o2 sensor. Our 5.5 year old sensor came loose with a little bit of grunt on an open end wrench, didn't even have to spray it with PB Blaster. The other option is to get an o2 sensor socket set from Autozone or other store that loans tools.
No before and after dyno or gps runs, but seat of the pants it feels at least equal if not better on the low end. It's hard to tell since the low end was significantly raised by the race pipe, LS2 coils and tuning.
12-23-2008, 11:34 PM
#392
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I agree that a lift makes a lot of jobs easier. I'm not so sure on this one. I pulled three transmissions this past year (a slow year) all on jackstands even though I have access to a lift. The header install is not even in the same realm of a transmission r/r.
My point is that no one should be discouraged from buying/installing a header just because they don't have access to a lift. The install is not that big of a deal.
I'm not looking for a pissing contest over a stupid point. The header, transmission and everything else can be done without a lift - without breaking your back. Trust me.
01-14-2009, 01:53 PM
#397
Even on a lift, then install was tuff. Getting your fingers in and around the header was tricky. It took 2 hours with the right tools, but I had to remove one of the temperature deflection wings that Mazda added to the new motor mount to get the header to fit.
01-14-2009, 03:30 PM
#400
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Untouched part:
Trimmed part:
Installed:
And an update on the header noise level: our particular car is without a doubt quieter with the header than the stock exhaust manifold. If anyone is concerned about the noise of a race pipe only, just get a header too!
Last edited by dvcn; 01-14-2009 at 04:46 PM.