That's good news SilverEIGHT. The bad is that examining my kit, the oil pressure fitting seems to be missing from the kit. I mean the thing I've circled in red in the attached photo. Thanks to the original photo submitter! It was really helpful to check kit contents :-) Oh yeah, FYI, I got the metric gauge kit.

Tom.

 

I thought mine was not included also but later found it after purchasing a replacement at SUMMIT.

 

I have a ton of crap going through the area by the windshield washer fluid, not sure if that hole was drilled through or not.

There's also a way through the firewall by the driver side footwell, without drilling. I have a few wires that way. It's tight though.

 

I've been through the kit at least 5 times now thinking the same thing. I sent a note to RacingBeat about it. I'll wait to see what they say. Either that or I'm blind :-)

Tom.

 

Gottit... I'll look in those two areas. The footwell one sounds like the right area. My car is RHD. Hopefully, its gonna be close to the clutch and not the throttle. I'll let you know what I end up doing.

Tom.

 

I just got mine installed to but kept with the guages sent by RB. I have an automatic so I ran the cables"with a steel line for the oil" by the head unit and drilled a 1 inch hole above the foot feed.

 

Anyone know where to get a replacement for the oil pressure gauge that comes with the RB kit. I need a fluid filled 2 1/16" version to eliminate the needle flutter. Summit Racing does not have one in the small size and I'm not having much luck on line.

 

have you tried autometer?

 

I looked but can't find info on DerWankel gauge pod...did I miss the boat on that one?

 

derwankel has left the building.. for the loss of everyone.. the project was turned over to someone else.

dont know who..

beers

 

Yep! They do not have the small gauges in liquid filled.

 

Good info. Found a nice link for it.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=atm-3236

 

I was going to route mine through the same holes that my turbo stuff goes through (passenger side footwell) but the hole to the washer fluid bottle area is too small, so I ended up following the racing beat directions through the transmission.

It really isn't too bad, once you're under the car looking at the driver side of the transmission, you'll see there's already wires and crap going through that area without issue. The exhaust system is what will cause problems, and that's on the other side of the transmission, so not an issue.


Almost everything looks good for the racing beat pod install, but there is one issue - the oil temp gauge always reads zero. I waited till the coolant reading showed 190 degrees F and oil still read zero. Everything is hooked up correctly too

 

I went down the transmission also in the end. Just couldn't find a suitable access hole that was suitable. I had a little more noise coming up through the transmission in the beginning but I re-opened it up again and stuck some more padding in. That seems to have helped a lot. Its as quiet as it was before now. Although, quiet is something my car is not...

Love the kit. I find the middle gauge could be a bit brighter at night time but that is my only complaint. In fact, this gauge already saved my ***. At Honjyo circuit in May, my oil temp was hitting 140 Celsius (284 Fahrenheit) after about 8 minutes running. The stock dummy gauge showed all was normal! Not a good thing. It was then, I knew I needed a second cooler asap. Installed the RE-Amemiya cooler and things are looking a lot better now. So, loving the gauges! Actually, started a blog a while ago to record some of this stuff also. If you are interested try: http://roxy-rx8.blogspot.com/

Cheers,

Tom.

 

Update:

While driving to lunch today, I called Racing beat to tell them my oil temp gauge wasn't working. They said they'd call me back after they do some research. Meanwhile I continued to drive. After about 15 mins on the road my oil temp moved! The lowest setting is 140F, so it climbed till I arrived at Olive Garden - at that point it was around 160F degrees. Which seemed low to me, because I had boosted on the highway, going over 120 mph. Anyway, I got back from lunch and the temp showed around 170F. I drove home and it stayed in that range. Eventually hitting 180F.

Does it take this long for the oil to warm up, or are the gauges slow? I'm running 10W30 royal purple btw.


The second thing I noticed ...

I didn't hook up the coolant temp because I already can read coolant from the odb2 system. So I ziptied it to the engine bay area. I figured I could read under hood temps with it. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to work because the temp slowly rises and stays up high. When I parked the car coolant was reading 180F. So I popped open the hood, and turned on a giant metal fan that blows a lot of air. Additionally I opened the house door so cold A/C air was flowing. The engine bay area was not even slightly warm, and the sensor was cool to the touch. Yet the coolant gauge still read 170 degrees. It took almost an hour to go down a significant amount.

So is this normal? Does the coolant sensor need to touch liquid to function normally?

 

As for the Oil Temp gauge Mine does take some time to begin moving. But once it does I think it's accurate. During the winter/ spring it was around 160 and now its around 180-190. ( RP 5w-30 ) The real test will be this weekend. 3-day HPDE @ Pocono.

 

Okay, today I started up my car just to test - I installed the water temp gauge even though I don't need it due to odb2.

This time around, oil temp started to move within a 5 minutes or so. Last time it took 15-20 mins to start moving. Maybe these things need to break in before they work properly....

Anyway, this is the first time the coolant sensor was in place, so the numbers might be off since it's the first time in use...

Here's a break down of odb2 sensor (left) vs racing beat gauge (right):

--- Started up the car, and started driving.
145F - 125F
150F - 130F
160F - 138F
180F - 160F
182F - 168F
188F - 170F
190F - 173F
--- Radiator fans kicked on
181F - 178F
179F - 179F
--- Parked the car...
181F - 181F
--- Reved it to 4k, so it warms up more...
190F - 190F
--- Radiator fans kick on
190F - 193F
188F - 193F
182F - 193F
181F - 192F
--- turned car off
184F - 190F
182F - 182F
179F - 181F

 

it looks like it can give you a rough idea, but any sudden temp changes aren't reflected for ~5 minutes. So I don't know if the gauges supplied with the kit are all that useful besides giving you a general idea of what your car was doing 5 minutes ago..

 

That sucks...

 

Sorry for being lazy but where does the odb2 system get its coolant temp from? Could the difference be do to where the RB coolant temp sensor is installed?

 

those are normal type of temps from the location you are at. mechanical gauges are thought to be the most accuate. i dont like routing the mechanical lines through the trans as they have to be bent so much. i think it could hurt the gas flow in the gauge lines
olddragger

 

On my way home last night (on the highway in the heat), I noticed my odb2 reading the normal 182 range, when the racing beat pod read 220 F.

The two were quite far apart for a while, so it's definitely not a "5 minute lag" as I thought in my earlier post. You might be right in that the sensor's location play a large role in this. It might just be that the odb2 sensor for coolant is located right after the radiator, and the racing beat sensor is located before. So it's not so much that the racing beat reading is incorrect, it would actually be more correct since it's the general temp of the coolant and not just the stuff that was recently cooled down.

 

Anyone ever find 2 1/16" fluid filled gauges? I'm still looking as my oil pressure gauge is still fluttering.

 

i have the same thing...it looks and works great

 

Anyone else had a leak of oil from under the blue RB oil filter housing?

Not huge amounts but needs sorting.

Common or has mine been fitted wrong?
new seal/tighten it up more?

Fitted to a UK car