Racing Beat Gauge Pod Update
Originally Posted by SilverEIGHT
Installed mine yesterday.
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I'd also like to say that OD could have installed it by himself in around 4 hours but with my "help"* we were able to stretch it out for a good 11 hours. Like I said, there is a story to be told. Yes OD, I'm gonna fess up.
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I'd also like to say that OD could have installed it by himself in around 4 hours but with my "help"* we were able to stretch it out for a good 11 hours. Like I said, there is a story to be told. Yes OD, I'm gonna fess up.
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Hope you didn't kink the capillary tube.
elf, the color and finish match perfectly. Fit could be adjusted a little as the width leaves about a 1/8" gap on the left side. Not visable in the pic. One VERY notable thing is that there is a good bit of road noise that emulates from the pod area now due to a limited amount of baffeling. So I plan to open it back up and put some sound dampning material in the cavity.
Nope, no kink that I know of. One thing is for sure... I should never be trusted with anything that represents tools or mechanical devices and should by law have to wear a bracelet that says, "WARNING - NEVER LET THIS PERSON HELP YOU"
Nope, no kink that I know of. One thing is for sure... I should never be trusted with anything that represents tools or mechanical devices and should by law have to wear a bracelet that says, "WARNING - NEVER LET THIS PERSON HELP YOU"
Originally Posted by SilverEIGHT
One VERY notable thing is that there is a good bit of road noise that emulates from the pod area now due to a limited amount of baffeling....
Dave
Silver is too modest. He shouldnt have to wear a bracelet.
Nothing like spending time with an 8--anyones 8, plus, good friends makes it even better. he will probably reveal the details but we think one of the things that may contribute to the road noise was that we installed the stainless steel oil pressure tubing(which is a much greater diameter tube that the little capillary tubing that is in the package). this causes a bigger gap in the shift boot assembly. Should be easily fixed. It is a great looking package.
The back of the gauges doesnt have much room--so be careful when you install and dont bend those mechanical temp lines much. Those tubes are easily kinked or broken.
Silver took lots of pictures(he is great at that--should see his camera---daymn!) and will be posting a lot off little helpful hints.
rotor on
olddragger

Nothing like spending time with an 8--anyones 8, plus, good friends makes it even better. he will probably reveal the details but we think one of the things that may contribute to the road noise was that we installed the stainless steel oil pressure tubing(which is a much greater diameter tube that the little capillary tubing that is in the package). this causes a bigger gap in the shift boot assembly. Should be easily fixed. It is a great looking package.
The back of the gauges doesnt have much room--so be careful when you install and dont bend those mechanical temp lines much. Those tubes are easily kinked or broken.
Silver took lots of pictures(he is great at that--should see his camera---daymn!) and will be posting a lot off little helpful hints.
rotor on
olddragger
OD, I'm in the process of putting the info together, feel free to check out the images and post any notes in the gallery on the GA RX-8 Club Gallery. Just add a comment. We'll decide what to do with it from there.
There are a lot of steps missing from the installation but it was hard to shoot and work at the same time. A lot of the installation came after dark so lighting was pretty bad. I scanned the installation instructions and included them with the images and referenced the images to the instructions.
There are a lot of steps missing from the installation but it was hard to shoot and work at the same time. A lot of the installation came after dark so lighting was pretty bad. I scanned the installation instructions and included them with the images and referenced the images to the instructions.
Last edited by SilverEIGHT; Jan 21, 2007 at 07:00 PM.
Hahaha....ya'll were there until after dark?
Wow, now I wish I didn't have to go to work yesterday. Then again, I'm sure doing my breaks and the break for lunch could take away a good 3+ hours of that 11-hour time
But it looks good, wish I could have seen the finished product in person, you'll need to come to Macon again so OD's daughter can take your center console apart again...or maybe I will next time....
Wow, now I wish I didn't have to go to work yesterday. Then again, I'm sure doing my breaks and the break for lunch could take away a good 3+ hours of that 11-hour time
But it looks good, wish I could have seen the finished product in person, you'll need to come to Macon again so OD's daughter can take your center console apart again...or maybe I will next time....
Originally Posted by chickenwafer
any night pics?
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=124
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=169
My oil temp seems really slow to respond, like 20 min., and at full driving temp (non-agressive driving) seems to finally build up to 160º-170º. A good 10º to 20º less than my water temp. Olddraggers oil and water temps seem to run the same. So if his water is 180º, so is his oil. What are you guys finding and is you oil temp so slow to build up?
same thing with me, except in the NE my oil temps are below 160. One thing I am looking for is as the oil burns off does the avg oil temp go up? So in a way an oil temp gauge can be an low oil gauge. I thought that was the case but wasn't sure. It would make sense that if your down more than 1/2 qt the temps would go up because your asking less oil to do the same cooling job.
If it is that slow Silver I am afraid it either has a crimp OR the line has been compromized and the gas has leaked out a little. Does RB have a warrenty on the gauges? If so get it exchanged and we will reinstall it. I will come up to your place this time! You will have to use sharp tools to remove it as that line is inside the harness
. This is the one thing about this package i dont like. Those mechanical lines have to take too many big turns--from the back of the gauge to the transmission access--then down through it and then toward the front of the car, then again to loop around the rubber hoses in the engine compartment. I also cant remember --was there a piece of foam tape on the edge of the metal where the line goes down into the trans tunnell? Bolting the shift boot down sure puts pressure there.
Dont get me wrong here --not critizing RB. Its a neat package. I just like to keep mechanical gauge lines as straight as possible.
Low oil does not affect oil temps unless it is so low it starts to run hot. if that occurs the coolant temp will be also overwhelmed and that too will be hot.
Will---sorry you had to leave--it was a hoot! Course we were having too much fun to worry about the time?! Hows the pads doing?
olddragger
. This is the one thing about this package i dont like. Those mechanical lines have to take too many big turns--from the back of the gauge to the transmission access--then down through it and then toward the front of the car, then again to loop around the rubber hoses in the engine compartment. I also cant remember --was there a piece of foam tape on the edge of the metal where the line goes down into the trans tunnell? Bolting the shift boot down sure puts pressure there.Dont get me wrong here --not critizing RB. Its a neat package. I just like to keep mechanical gauge lines as straight as possible.
Low oil does not affect oil temps unless it is so low it starts to run hot. if that occurs the coolant temp will be also overwhelmed and that too will be hot.
Will---sorry you had to leave--it was a hoot! Course we were having too much fun to worry about the time?! Hows the pads doing?
olddragger
OD, there are 4 or 5 peices of foam under the lines and one peice above as per the instructions. I'm going to take the console out again and release presure on the hoses then pull the lines into the car just a little more to try to gain a little more flex inside the car. There should be a peice of white tape (applied by RB) that is exposed inside the car aftr you have put the shifter plate back in place. I going to make sure that is in the proper location before tightning. I need to pack some sound dampning in there anyway. If there is a bind or kink, I think this is where it may be.
If you come up here to help me, you will have to bring your barn!
If you come up here to help me, you will have to bring your barn!
Denny...The pads are great. Thank ya'll for the help. Guess I had to hog the jack and stands for a few hours.
Yeah....if you go to his place, give me a call. I'll bring my mom's truck and we'll toss the shed onto a flatbed trailer and take the whole works along
Yeah....if you go to his place, give me a call. I'll bring my mom's truck and we'll toss the shed onto a flatbed trailer and take the whole works along
I'm installing Nexus gauges with the RB Water temp adapter. The instructions state that I need to ground the adapter when using electrical gauges. The gauge works fine without it being grounded. Why do the instructions say to ground it? I don't see how ESD would be a problem.
Nope, car runs fine. The RB instructions for the oil pressure/temp adapter have you swap positions of the temp and pressure sensors if you are using electric instead of mechanical, so that is what I did. I swapped them back and I'm still getting the same thing. The temp readings are fine in both positions. I'm using the standard pressure sender that came with the gauge and the instructions don't say that I need anything else. I just sent an inquiry to autometer so I'm waiting for their response.



jk