wow, great info guys....hope that helps RX8r

 

Thanks for the insight.

The negative cable disconnect has done the trick. I have had (3) drive cycles since reconnecting without any type of CEL.

That said, I found it odd the NVRAM & KRAM resets did not provide the same results as the battery disconnect.

I thought they basically provided the same effect, but I guess not.

 

YES!

Did the Agency pulleys come with directions?

 

yea,

something in the r flash changed the nvram reset... it is bat cable removal now..

beers

 

No directions provided from Agency.

 

The agency pully was not easy, its been 3 hours and its not done yet, also i think i fucked myself as well, looks like its going to mazda.. The pully is woobly when i start it.. so, i have to tighten the bottom it looks like... well... seems liek the bottom helix screw is stripped.. well.. the allen key part is anyways, so i cant turn it.... what do i do?

 

If you get get a pliers or a needle nose Vise Grip on the outside of the bolt to loosen it to get it out and replace it with a good one.

 

hm... thanks.... its pretty tight now though... i wasin the process of tighting all of them so the wobel would stop, and im pretty suire it stripped...so.. i think its gonna need more then pliers or vice grips..

 

Jeez, you must've been torquing the heck out of it.

Is the belt wobbling, or the pulley itself? Did the plate behind the pulley become misaligned when you took off the old pulley? Are you sure there isn't something lodged behind the pulley and the E-shaft?

Are you sure you lined it up correctly when putting it on? Because its keyed to only go on in one way. If you placed it on the wrong orientation thats what could be causing the wobble. And no amount of tightening could fix that.

 

Note in this picture:



That it IS only keyed to fit on in one way (the two smaller holes).

Another:

 

Allen Head Bolts?

Did your Agency pulley come with those? I re-used the stock hex head bolts, which were quite close to the inner pulley face. So close in fact, I had to buy a 1/4" drive ratchet because the 3/8" drive socket was too thick.

 

yup - comes with those bolts

 

Mine did not.

 

mine arrived this week - maybe they didn't have them to start with .

 

here's something for all of us to think about. I have two Rx8's...one with flywheel, intake, exhaust, pulleys..and another base model 8 with exhaust and intake.....and, the one without all the sh** pulls on the other. No joke. We have dragged several times and the base model with intake/exhuast pulls on the GT with flywheel/pulley/intake/exhaust/grounding kit..etc. wtf.

We have the same size aftermarket wheels/tires, and we do our best to launch and even out speeds. The GT version launches better, but the base model is gaining ground in 3rd gear.

 

Weight?

 

the pully is spinning, and its on the way in the pic, i was with one of my dads mechanic Friends, he left, cuz it was till wobbling... told me to weight to tighten em and finish it tomorrow, so i procedded to tighten them 1/4 turn at a time, came back to the bottem one and the tool... slipped right off.. i wasl ike.. F*ck... so i just left it... him and another buddy are coming over today with the proper tools to check if its stripped and prolly fix it.. i hope i gots no problems, ill let you all know how it goes.. Thanks for the help

 

Turns out that the wholes dont match up.. there was/is no chance of me getting the pully in there.. so its going back to stock...

 

Interesting... is the small keyed hole just missing?

 

nevermind, what turn out is that it didn'y line up right, so the bolts got stripped, but why it didnt turn out is the back part had a lip on the AP pully, we just filled that down with a file and it fit on fine, unfortunalty 2 of the bolts stripped, no ******* autoshop thats open has them, right when they hear the bolt is from a car "nope! we dont got em!!" .. well.. look and mabey you do, and its sunday so half of the good ones arnt even open.. sigh... take down itsa 45 minutes job.. thats a lie unless your a good mechanic whos done this more then once on more then 1 vehicle..

 

I believe it was stated after the intake is out and battery is disconnected the swap is about 45 minutes or so. All depends on how smooth a person can pull those items before swapping the pulleys.

Disclaimer: "If a person is not used to projects like this it will take 3 hours."

When I do work that includes critical items I take pictures so I can review them.

Little things like how the main shaft pulley goes on matters.

A shop manual is beneficial too

 

Thanks for posting your experience Skiptomylue hopefully it will save someone the same trouble.

 

no problem, the reason we got the lip that had to be filled was becuase it wasnt origanlly seated straight, well, it was, it just wasnt turned the 180 degrees.. it was on the wrong side.. even those all those holes appear to line up.. becarefull.. if you get the screws in, and the crank is still wobbly.. and you take the screws out, you'll prolly have to file the back part down, i shoulda grabbed some pics to show you the kinda "lip" im talking about... sorry.. all im waiting on now is my buddy to pick up some of those same screws from work and we are in the clear

and i was being sarcastic when i said take it down that it only takes 45 min

 

I understand, I like disclaimers though.

 

So the only real diff is the flywheel & pullies ? - this would explain why it launches better - why the other catches up could be due to it having a stronger motor from scratch.
Perhaps ????