I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but speaking to some people they have warned to ensure I use the right material for the connector pins. They forwarded me the attached guide, but does anyone know what the OEM female connector material is so I can get an appropriate pin.

Cheers

Andrew

 

my guess is tin or silver is the way to go. I don't think the std connectors have any gold. but they may be tin which wont work with gold if you get them.

where are you getting the connectors from?

 

Thats what they are warning about. They think the OEM plug has 2 tin and 1 gold connectors. But if you look at the coil they are all the same.

 

Over 3k miles on my MSD coils setup, three dyno days and five autocross (not to count the every ones in a while 130+ mph runs on I-4). No problems or issues. See video of one of my dyno and last autocross.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0K-xzxDpNb8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEubwwsXhmE

 

The GM OE connector is tin across all 4 pins.

I've got about 8k miles on my GM setup, which should be identical to what MSD is calling for since they advertise it as a drop-in replacement on the LS2.

 

I ordered 4 LS2 coils and the D581 connectors. The D581's came with about 8" of wire. In order to connect the coils to the OEM female connector, I need a pin on the end of the wire. Someone is telling me that one of the contacts on the female connector is gold and gold/tin dont work.

So my question is, what have you been using as a pin?

Cheers

Andrew

 

I took some pics of my MSD 8247 install!!! But I had to buy a 100$ set of 8 MSD 32079 Ls1/Ls6 universtal plug wires because I needed longer wires for the relocation. Now I have the four extra super long ones that are long enough for two more sets of plug wires (need to buy the boots though)!!! I guess I'll put them in the for sale section...

 

Grouch. Do those wires fit nice and snug, or did you have to modify them to fit the coil properly?? If so, I will take them off your hands.

 

That plastic bag in the pic with the black rubber boots in them are the correct boots to fit our coils. So basically those straight boots are cut off, or the wire is cut to the length you want. The new boots are crimped on with the special little black tool you see in the pic. Then the plug boots are 90's which is what we want, and the coil side boots are very flexible 135 degree boots and have terminals that fit perfectly.

So there's enough wire here to make 8 more plug wires for an rx8 coil relocation, and enough plug boots to make 5 more wires for an ls2 set (you can buy just the boots to make the last three)

 

How much for 4 wires and boots?

 

Ray, I take it you will be making some soon then?

 

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. I am now gathering the parts necessary to build my ignition kit. I have come across a vendor offering Delphi LS2 coils for a very good price.

I believe there are some extra harness cables that were bought from Ray so we could do the coil mod to our track cars. I may have to stop by the shop once my coils make it in. Also, I think there is plenty of plug wire and boots readily available too. This project may come out a lot cheaper than I was expecting!

 

ROAR's not wasting any money on anything...this is for my personal car. I'm sure Rob and Adam appreciate your generosity...I am doing this on my own. Besides those coils and harnesses are sure to be used very soon on the build up of the #62!

 

I've decided to hold on to these as a set of spares or two sets of spares for this car or maybe a future car since they're uncut; I'd rather not cut them yet. I'd recommend buying the MSD 32079 set for 100 bux even on ebay or maybe from Charles who is an MSD dealer. This way you can have yourself three sets of plug wires for about 35 bucks per set. You can keep one or split the rest with someone.

This set comes with 8 really long wires with a 90 plug end on one side and a straight plug end on the other, and comes with the crimp tool and 9 coil boots. So it's only three coil boots short of three full sets of wires! I'm guessing your coils are relocated so you'd probably want to cut your own wires. It's really quick and easy and then you have the advantage of routing them whichever way you want.

 

That set you mentioned looks like it's even cheaper and comes with more parts! What exactly is the difference? Are the wires shorter? I guess what would be ideal for us is to find a universal set for a 4 cylinder with long enough wires and the ls2 boots!

 

Has anyone got the Yukons working with a Microtec or Int-X?

 

The guy doing mine at the moment is saying he is having all sorts of issues getting the dwell to work > 4000 rpm.

 

Probably using the wrong trigger edge.

 

OK I am getting out (no probably way out) of my league here, but from what I have just read and if I have interpreted it correctly are you saying that they may have configured the trigger edge as a falling instead of rising (or vice-versa)? Or do I have no idea what so ever?

 

Exactly. I suspect they have it set to rising edge.

 

Results are in from my LS2 (Yukon ones w/ heat sinks) coil modification:

Just took a 100 mile trip down the highway. Cruise set at 76 mph. Had a decent wind from the side, but no wind to decrease fuel consumption.

Result: 25.2 mpg!

Great mod! And it drives better, sounds crisper, and just goes better.

 

Hey guys, I figured I would put this in this thread for now but I just did the LS2 swap but I rerouted the the original coil wires back through the OEM harness to the front of the motor and did all the splice work. I followed Pettit Racing's coil relocating procedures almost all the way due to the fact that I was installing a custom d581 coil harness. Well, I finished the reassembly late last night and when I went to start it up this morning it cranked for about 2 seconds and then nothing. Now it won't do anything, and the immobilizer dash light flashes once I try and turn it over.

I was thinking maybe I didn't reconnect something properly or maybe a bad ground...I just wanted some of you wiring gurus to throw out some ideas. Thanks.

 

Sounds like you may have wired the power backwards? Check the fuses?

 

I sent you a pm, but yeah it does sound like a power issue. BTW, which fuses should I take a closer look at?

 

Ign fuse would be the most likely...