Koyo Radiator
06-25-2007, 04:03 PM
#34
It might be more trouble than it's worth. Don't forget you have two heat exchangers that are currently sitting in front of your stock radiator which will add some PITAness (tm) to the job.
The intercooler should provide you enough extra cooling while you're driving around during the day that you really shouldn't worry about overheating. This thing is always working, regardless of whether or not you are under boost. If you bought the radiator you should send it back and save your money.
As far as adding a turbo is concerned. If you really want a bunch more HP, you're going to need a lot more work done on your car than upgrade the radiator to handle that amount of power. Just wait a few months and get the 8psi pulley/tune and you'll be making close to 300 rwhp... that's enough for me.
The intercooler should provide you enough extra cooling while you're driving around during the day that you really shouldn't worry about overheating. This thing is always working, regardless of whether or not you are under boost. If you bought the radiator you should send it back and save your money.
As far as adding a turbo is concerned. If you really want a bunch more HP, you're going to need a lot more work done on your car than upgrade the radiator to handle that amount of power. Just wait a few months and get the 8psi pulley/tune and you'll be making close to 300 rwhp... that's enough for me.
06-25-2007, 04:08 PM
#35
LOL !!!!
alright, I dont think you have any idea what you're talking about buddy.
Stock cooler sure is good enough for regular street driving, but for people who track/autoX, or simply just wanna go *fast* all the time. stock cooler not going to cut it.
I had mad water boiling problems with my stock cooler before, and yes Im one of those *I wanna go fast* kind of people. switched to koyo rad couldnt be happier.
The job is not hard at all, might take a bit longer for first timer. worst part is just the hose, its really hard to get them off.
alright, I dont think you have any idea what you're talking about buddy.
Stock cooler sure is good enough for regular street driving, but for people who track/autoX, or simply just wanna go *fast* all the time. stock cooler not going to cut it.
I had mad water boiling problems with my stock cooler before, and yes Im one of those *I wanna go fast* kind of people. switched to koyo rad couldnt be happier.
The job is not hard at all, might take a bit longer for first timer. worst part is just the hose, its really hard to get them off.
Last edited by nycgps; 06-25-2007 at 04:10 PM.
06-25-2007, 04:11 PM
#36
So please be more specific so I can properly address your statement...
=)
EDIT: Thanks...ninja-edit skillet FTW
06-25-2007, 04:20 PM
#37
In fact, a cooler intake charge under load will put more heat into the cooling system because the denser charge will yield greater heat output from the combustion process (probably a marginal difference, though).
Especially the air/water type exchanger which will saturate and act like an air heater in front of the rad most of the time, not to mention the blocking of positive airflow through the rad.
06-25-2007, 04:22 PM
#38
LOL !!!!
alright, I dont think you have any idea what you're talking about buddy.
Stock cooler sure is good enough for regular street driving, but for people who track/autoX, or simply just wanna go *fast* all the time. stock cooler not going to cut it.
I had mad water boiling problems with my stock cooler before, and yes Im one of those *I wanna go fast* kind of people. switched to koyo rad couldnt be happier.
The job is not hard at all, might take a bit longer for first timer. worst part is just the hose, its really hard to get them off.
alright, I dont think you have any idea what you're talking about buddy.
Stock cooler sure is good enough for regular street driving, but for people who track/autoX, or simply just wanna go *fast* all the time. stock cooler not going to cut it.
I had mad water boiling problems with my stock cooler before, and yes Im one of those *I wanna go fast* kind of people. switched to koyo rad couldnt be happier.
The job is not hard at all, might take a bit longer for first timer. worst part is just the hose, its really hard to get them off.
06-25-2007, 04:26 PM
#39
Uh, charge cooling has little to no positive effect on coolant temps.
In fact, a cooler intake charge under load will put more heat into the cooling system because the denser charge will yield greater heat output from the combustion process (probably a marginal difference, though).
Especially the air/water type exchanger which will saturate and act like an air heater in front of the rad most of the time, not to mention the blocking of positive airflow through the rad.
In fact, a cooler intake charge under load will put more heat into the cooling system because the denser charge will yield greater heat output from the combustion process (probably a marginal difference, though).
Especially the air/water type exchanger which will saturate and act like an air heater in front of the rad most of the time, not to mention the blocking of positive airflow through the rad.
06-25-2007, 04:31 PM
#40
This is good to know, but in over a month of driving around here in Florida (and driving hard) I have yet to have to add any fluid to the radiator or the intercooler. Which leads me to believe that the car is running plenty cool, considering some days the ambient temps have reached 90+ consistently over the past couple of weeks.
Let the counter start ! I want to know how long your motor will last.
and when it blows up, please dont blame Mazda.
06-25-2007, 04:38 PM
#42
Originally Posted by Bastage
Which leads me to believe that the car is running plenty cool, considering some days the ambient temps have reached 90+ consistently over the past couple of weeks.
06-25-2007, 04:41 PM
#43
I know that the pettit kit has heat exchangers, but is it really enough to cool it down ?
We will find out.
That does not mean its running ok. Sure its running now. but usually mechanical breakdown = owner's fault.
You cannot have cancer in 1 day, it builds up and kill u out of nowhere.
Last edited by nycgps; 06-25-2007 at 04:43 PM.
06-25-2007, 04:45 PM
#46
The OEM temp range is already dangerously hot as it is shipped (the OE thermostat doesn't even open all the way until 205°F!), so by the time you have gauge deflection, you are already saturated.
Optimal power and engine longevity is found between 185°F and 205°F, give or take 5°F.
06-25-2007, 04:52 PM
#47
Nope. The temp gauge doesn't even start to move until it is over 230°F.
The OEM temp range is already dangerously hot as it is shipped (the OE thermostat doesn't even open all the way until 205°F!), so by the time you have gauge deflection, you are already saturated.
Optimal power and engine longevity is found between 185°F and 205°F, give or take 5°F.
The OEM temp range is already dangerously hot as it is shipped (the OE thermostat doesn't even open all the way until 205°F!), so by the time you have gauge deflection, you are already saturated.
Optimal power and engine longevity is found between 185°F and 205°F, give or take 5°F.
06-25-2007, 04:55 PM
#48
GO GET ONE now before its too late.
the stock is junk and when it really *moves more than middle*, your motor is already running way too hot.
Even I am going to get one, and Im running stock motor with Koyo Radiator.
I like Mechanical ones better than electric. each of their own I guess, oh get a good one tho, dont go for cheap stuff. and while you're at it you might want to upgrade your Radiator and Radiator hose at the same time.
06-25-2007, 04:55 PM
#49
The OE gauge is there to tell you that you've already crossed into dangerous territory and have mere seconds before engine damage. Especially if you live in a hot climate. The difference between "overheating" and "engine death" is just 20°F of coolant temp and in an arid environment, there is a huge difference in cooling efficiency from 100°F to 110°F ambient.
Either an aftermarket temp gauge, or run a CAN scanner on your in-car PC would be useful.
Either an aftermarket temp gauge, or run a CAN scanner on your in-car PC would be useful.
06-25-2007, 04:57 PM
#50
Bastage - you really can't know if you have an overheating problem unless you have a proper temp gauge installed . You are probably OK for cruising around town with the odd boosted run but give it stick for any length of time & I doubt your stock cooling system would cope . If you ever take it to the track I would advise fitting a temp guage and watch it closely .
edit : not too closely though - important to stay on the track
edit : not too closely though - important to stay on the track
Last edited by Brettus; 06-25-2007 at 05:10 PM.