I was at walmart today and the mobil1 5 qt jug was $21 ($4.20/qt) the rotella t6 was $19.50 for a gallon (4QTS $4.87/QT)

 

Damn that is a good price, compared to the usual $29.00.

Oh and here is what we deal with in Texas. All the talking about not being in traffic jinxed me. I left work early to go to my sons football game and got stuck behind an accident on the interstate. Can you say heat soak?

 

iat 183??
Damn.
Thats opens up another can of worms.
Ambient 116? Thats hot.
OD

 

Yeah the radiant heat is a bitch. The ambient was as high as 122F. Once everything gets heat soaked the only way to cool down quickly is a long straight at a steady speed with the heat on. Texas heat is no joke.

 

Recently since I recieved my Cobb AP I have been monitoring my Coolant temps, sometimes they jump up to 212 degrees under full throttle. So I just ordered Mazmarts REmedy water pump and thermostat combo... hopefully it helps...

Scott, I know exactly what you mean... Its not quite as bad here but I feel for ya...

 

would like to share my experience in fighting with overheating. I track my car occasionally. And here's my findings:

Track temp 36c - 42c

with MS bumper + aluminium radiator + 95% distilled water + RB air duct
Oil temp normally 95c - 108c (2 oil coolers)
Water Temp reached 117c!!! in 1.5mins, can't finish 1 full 5.6km lap.

with MS bumper + aluminium radiator + 95% distilled water + Remedy water pump
Oil temp normally 95c - 108c (2 oil coolers)
Water Temp reached 116c in 5th lap which is about 14mins of hard 9k rpm driving.

with MS bumper + aluminium radiator + 95% distilled water + Remedy water pump + vented bonnet + relocate battery
Oil temp normally 95c - 108c (2 oil coolers)
Water Temp reached 108c in 3rd lap.

with MS bumper + aluminium radiator + 95% distilled water + Remedy water pump + vented bonnet + relocate battery + K&N Typhoon 2 intake + removed intake under tray
Oil temp normally 95c - 108c (2 oil coolers)
Water Temp reached 104c in 3rd lap.

So, I find that we need to open up the bumper to get as most cool air to the radiator as possible AND open up the space after radiator to vent out the hot air as fast as possible. The stock battery and intake blocked the hot air from radiator for going out.

 

don't remove the undertray, you want everything from the bumper to the radiator sealed as tight as possible. After the radiator you want to open things up. But airflow is tricky and opening things up under the car will usually cause more problems. My understanding is that the air/heat from the radiator and under the hood should be venting out past the engine and transmission which cool them. In fact beat rush has an under engine tray which is sold as a cooling mod. It has some vents but it main job is to keep is to keep the air under the car from getting terbulant, coming up into the engine bay and reducing air flow past the motor/trans. The series 2 added a similar panel which tells you something.

RX8dorifto: what aluminum radiator do you have? Not all aluminum radiators are better then stock.

 

very good comparative data--thanks for posting. I take it the ambient temps where very similar?
Totally agree on dont remove anything from under the car. I have found that blocking some of the air vents in the undertray can have a little affect, but dont block them all.
As the battery tray doesnt block the radiator nearly as much as the airbox, i wonder why it had such a bigger improvement?
Again good post. Temps still could use a little more work ?

Synthetic oil will run cooler than conventional, but once more (and thanks for keeping the thread on topic) oil temps are not that big of a concern. Sure it helps some, but the percentage is small in comparasion.
OD

 

good data logging (how did you collect the data, what tool?) and interesting, but without data starting from stock, how does it help those without your specific mods, as in radiator, bumper, etc.? Little (and not so little) mods can cause big differences... just saying...

 

I was looking at some logs that I took on Grungepup's car which was completely stock at the time and even his coolant temps reached 212F just doing a couple of runs to about 8500RPM. He will be getting an oil temp gauge soon and I will get some oil temps data on a stock car to compare to mine.

 

I removed the "Intake undertray" to let the radiator fan blow out the hot air directly onto the bonnet vent. The the undertray under the car. Am quite happy with current water temp as the boil over point with stock radiator cap should be around 114c.

I logged my water temp with OBDKey + Racechrono. You guys may go to my Youtube channel to see my vids http://www.youtube.com/user/eddychin

 

Great info. That racechrono looks nice.

 

Im really hoping that the REmedy water pump and thermostat will help a decent amount, but its really hard to pay attention to my Cobb AP when the damn cable is long and just laying on my lap while im driving. Anyone have a setup that eliminates this? Besides the GOODbox?

 

Well my scangauge II works for this mounted on the steering column but the Goodbox has eliminated that. I also have the Hymee and on the laptop is the best view but it's a pain to lug around so I am looking for a netbook. I don't even bother using the cobb to view data. For the price you would think it would come with at least a windshield mount.

 

I agree... damn... I guess maybe I should just create a Data log from it and view it myself at a later date? Well I want Live data too... ugh...

 

Well--guys ---seems like a NEW option may become available soon for the RX8. Beta testing being done.
Its as I have said for a couple of years now---long overdue.
The Electric Water Pump.
My connection tell me they are having VERY good results to date. Testing is incomplete at present.
Stay tuned---this may be the absoulute BEST YET. For many reasons
OLDDRAGGER

 

^ now that's something I've been looking for for a long long time....hoping

 

Not sure if this is what you want - But if you are looking for virtual ODB2 Gauges - This **displays and records** any of 41 OBD2 parameters available to it in my car. No holding in your lap lol. Built in custom screens aplenty - or create your own gauges - you decide what to display and record (or not) - and a whole lot more (see here --> http://www.dashdaq.com/). Little pricey but does lots for you and it can be a great GPS system too if you don't have NAV.



Here's one of the dozen or so screen designs and showing how I have it mounted (in that little hole next to the glovebox). Displaying IAT (intake), ECT (coolant), Speed LTFT, STFT, SparkAdv, EGT (CAT).

 

The dashdaq is pretty nice unit. Do you have any pics of how you mounted it in that little whole?

 

I used an old cell phone mount, the holes conveniently fit those on the back of the unit, and the part that stuck in the the dash hole had a threaded end that I put a nut & washer on by reaching in with the glovebox open.

The cable coming from the back of the unit is what connects to the ODB2 (hidden behind the hinge), the other from the side is for the (optional) GPS receiver antenna I have on mounted on the dash window corner area. The unused connector hole is for the analog signal input that can be hooked to almost anything.

 

I haven't done much testing with mine...other than it has some good features for track ....you can shut down the car and run the fans and water pump until the car cools off

I haven't had any problems with temps since..but I installed a big rad and the pump at the same time....

Time will tell..but it pushes a lot more water than the stock pump at low RPM's especially

 

Cool.

 

Details? Geesh, you guys are holding out on us.

 

Great mounting setup on the DashDaq. If anyone is interested, we have them up for sale and in stock with Zeitronix ZT-2:

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...32#post3687532

 

As for cooling the engine, there's a few things that can be done. As an example of what we use on our road race NA cars (same concept for turbo cars):

1. Underpanel with open slits (motion of cold air rushing through bottom helps suck out heat)
2. Double/Triple core radiator with external pressure tank and extra overflow tank
3. Properly shielding anything that will need to maintain cooler (pipes, lines, etc) with yellow reflective film or thermo-tec reflective fims. Or shielding parts that produce a lot of heat turbo, manifolds, etc.
4. Lower temp thermostat
5. Oil cooler & transmission cooler (reduces heat on those area in which transfer less heat to rest of motor components)
6. Good ventilation (hood, fenders, front bumper, and ducts) <can be mounted with naca ducts and use duct pipings to direct cool air where necessary
7. Good fluids that help reduce temps (such as Redline water wetter)