intakes which is better
08-17-2009, 08:35 PM
#1
pure sex
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intakes which is better
i now have a aem cold air on my 8 it sounds good and every thing but i do worry that when it pours which it has been alot latley that it will mess something up by being sucked in and i was wondering which is better a short ram or a full cold air for both power and reliability i have seen a few of you guys out their who have some sick short rams out their and i also no that short rams are louder so pleas and thank you.
08-17-2009, 08:46 PM
#7
A short ram is not a COLD AIR INTAKE. It will pull in hot air from the engine bay. Not a good thing. Stick with the AEM it's the best one out there. AEM makes a sock that goes over the filter that's suppose to keep water out. And large debris. You should not have any issue unless your in a foot and a half of water.
08-17-2009, 09:21 PM
#11
dont worry about water.. I have mazdaspeed and Florida gets nasty rain storms, I drive in them daily in afternoons on highway going to work. Dont worry about getting it wet.
I just ASSUME after it stops raining, dont drive the car like you stole it. Keep the revs down and water wont get into the engine.
I just ASSUME after it stops raining, dont drive the car like you stole it. Keep the revs down and water wont get into the engine.
08-18-2009, 12:15 AM
#17
08-18-2009, 02:08 AM
#18
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Getting your filter wet doesn't pose any risk to the vehicle. You cannot hydrolock the rotary engine so even if you drove the motor through a lake you could start the motor provided everything else worked.
I digress...
I have gotten my filter pretty soaked a few times when it's rained really hard in Phoenix. What ends up happening is water is detected by the MAF as air and it causes the grams/sec readout to shoot through the roof.
With a wet filter I could see 350+ grams/sec on the MAF which for an N/A RX8 is physically impossible. What ends up happening is the PCM tries to add fuel to account for the air and it ends up running stupid rich and causing incomplete combustion.
This doesn't actually happen until I drive above 6,000 RPMs so even if your filter is wet just take it easy in the rain and you won't have any problems. Maybe take the whopping 5 minutes to remove your MAF and clean it.
No risk running the AEM.
I digress...
I have gotten my filter pretty soaked a few times when it's rained really hard in Phoenix. What ends up happening is water is detected by the MAF as air and it causes the grams/sec readout to shoot through the roof.
With a wet filter I could see 350+ grams/sec on the MAF which for an N/A RX8 is physically impossible. What ends up happening is the PCM tries to add fuel to account for the air and it ends up running stupid rich and causing incomplete combustion.
This doesn't actually happen until I drive above 6,000 RPMs so even if your filter is wet just take it easy in the rain and you won't have any problems. Maybe take the whopping 5 minutes to remove your MAF and clean it.
No risk running the AEM.
08-18-2009, 02:32 AM
#19
Getting your filter wet doesn't pose any risk to the vehicle. You cannot hydrolock the rotary engine so even if you drove the motor through a lake you could start the motor provided everything else worked.
I digress...
I have gotten my filter pretty soaked a few times when it's rained really hard in Phoenix. What ends up happening is water is detected by the MAF as air and it causes the grams/sec readout to shoot through the roof.
With a wet filter I could see 350+ grams/sec on the MAF which for an N/A RX8 is physically impossible. What ends up happening is the PCM tries to add fuel to account for the air and it ends up running stupid rich and causing incomplete combustion.
This doesn't actually happen until I drive above 6,000 RPMs so even if your filter is wet just take it easy in the rain and you won't have any problems. Maybe take the whopping 5 minutes to remove your MAF and clean it.
No risk running the AEM.
I digress...
I have gotten my filter pretty soaked a few times when it's rained really hard in Phoenix. What ends up happening is water is detected by the MAF as air and it causes the grams/sec readout to shoot through the roof.
With a wet filter I could see 350+ grams/sec on the MAF which for an N/A RX8 is physically impossible. What ends up happening is the PCM tries to add fuel to account for the air and it ends up running stupid rich and causing incomplete combustion.
This doesn't actually happen until I drive above 6,000 RPMs so even if your filter is wet just take it easy in the rain and you won't have any problems. Maybe take the whopping 5 minutes to remove your MAF and clean it.
No risk running the AEM.
08-18-2009, 02:33 AM
#20
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Wow, I can't say I've ever seen that happen. In my case it's always gone rich and even thrown a CEL for the MAF being out of range.
08-18-2009, 02:58 AM
#22
a.k.a. WhITeRE8
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Had racingbeat intake and duct for 2.5 years and loved it! Now I have AEM and I still love it! Can't go wrong with either one, but AEM would be better if you plan on going greddy turbo in the future.
08-20-2009, 03:00 PM
#24
I'm not trying to be an *** but your question makes me think you should do a little research on engine performance. You can not upgrade one part and get any kind of good results. If you get an intake you will get a wooop sound and worse gas millage. Engines are made to work with the parts they have. You can upgrade everything or nothing IMHO. If you want a real noticeable upgrade that will maybe even lower your 1/4 time by a whole second (not that I like drag racing its just a good point of reference) get really really good tires. Otherwise save your damn money for that FI and do it right.... like me =)
