How to get the most horse for the money
If all you have is 1200 to spend on the 8 to make it faster forget about it. the 8 is not and never will be a straight line dragger. Go trade in for a mustang. Spending 1200 on an 8 for power won't give you "more speed down the straights." only turbo will do that and thats a hella lot more than 1200
I'd mod all the roads you travel on so you're always driving downhill. If that's not in your budget, always travel south. Based on my limited map-reading ability, south appears to be pretty much straight downhill.
Or you can peruse the subforum you posted in and check out thousands of opinions on dozens of mods. You may be interested in nitrous, which has conveniently been stickied at the top of the "Major Horsepower Upgrades" subforum https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/rules-nitrous-use-109820/
Or you can peruse the subforum you posted in and check out thousands of opinions on dozens of mods. You may be interested in nitrous, which has conveniently been stickied at the top of the "Major Horsepower Upgrades" subforum https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/rules-nitrous-use-109820/
1) Save up a little more and get some good, light weight wheels.
2)If you are ancy and want speed now, you can get a ZEX nitrous setup (kit and remote control bottle opener) for $700. Install will be $400-$500 if not done yourself. If you went this route and intend on using spray often, i would get a midpipe also. Just swap OEM in and out for emissions or get a shady cat to pass you (not that i would know anyone like that).
2)If you are ancy and want speed now, you can get a ZEX nitrous setup (kit and remote control bottle opener) for $700. Install will be $400-$500 if not done yourself. If you went this route and intend on using spray often, i would get a midpipe also. Just swap OEM in and out for emissions or get a shady cat to pass you (not that i would know anyone like that).
ok, heres my serious advice, search and find a used catback for about $500 (Greddy, Borla, etc) for a 1-2hp gain. Cold air for 5-7hp gain for about $400, and use the remaining $300 to find a good performance chip. I think thats your best route for most horsepower for $1200. Or run a 55hp shot of nitrous as suggested. Those are your two options that I can think of at least.
Best gains....
Cold Air Intake = ~250
RP Supercat = ~300
Biggest difference...
AFE Short Shifter = ~230
Put the rest of the money into suspension
Just enjoy the driving...you won't get much power out of it
Cold Air Intake = ~250
RP Supercat = ~300
Biggest difference...
AFE Short Shifter = ~230
Put the rest of the money into suspension
Just enjoy the driving...you won't get much power out of it
nitrous or lightweight rims.
im pretty sure nitrous isnt a maintainence heavy item. but i dont really know anything on the topic. also, for ever 1lb you reduce off unsprung weight (like the rims) it is equal to 4lbs off the rest of the car.
so lets say our rims weigh 22 lbs each. and you go to some rims that weigh 17lbs each. thats 5x4(for unsprung weight) x4 (for each tire). = 100lbs off the car. you will feel the difference.
im pretty sure nitrous isnt a maintainence heavy item. but i dont really know anything on the topic. also, for ever 1lb you reduce off unsprung weight (like the rims) it is equal to 4lbs off the rest of the car.
so lets say our rims weigh 22 lbs each. and you go to some rims that weigh 17lbs each. thats 5x4(for unsprung weight) x4 (for each tire). = 100lbs off the car. you will feel the difference.
If you have an Auto, trade it in and throw that money at a manual. I'm guessing you already have a manual though.
Cheapest effective power upgrade: Rip the interior out and remove the AC system. That will affect acceleration more than $1200 in performance mods (other than nitrous,) and help handling to boot. If you don't want your car to be just sheet metal inside and want to keep AC, things are a bit more difficult.
I'd spend the money on going to the track and getting driving lessons. That will improve your ability to drive fast (and give you a chance to do so legally and safely) more than $1200 in parts will.
The 8 is pretty highly engineered. No easy gains.
Cheapest effective power upgrade: Rip the interior out and remove the AC system. That will affect acceleration more than $1200 in performance mods (other than nitrous,) and help handling to boot. If you don't want your car to be just sheet metal inside and want to keep AC, things are a bit more difficult.
I'd spend the money on going to the track and getting driving lessons. That will improve your ability to drive fast (and give you a chance to do so legally and safely) more than $1200 in parts will.
The 8 is pretty highly engineered. No easy gains.
Well my 8 is pretty quick N/A and I would recommend the following if you only have $1200
Racing beat duct
Racing beat flash
cat delete pipe (with resonator) or a good 2nd hand catback system
K&N drop in air filter + take out the 2 mesh screens in the intake
Agency power underdrive pulley
premix at 200:1 or more
That will make a noticable difference - just don't take on any STIs or EVOs
Racing beat duct
Racing beat flash
cat delete pipe (with resonator) or a good 2nd hand catback system
K&N drop in air filter + take out the 2 mesh screens in the intake
Agency power underdrive pulley
premix at 200:1 or more
That will make a noticable difference - just don't take on any STIs or EVOs
Last edited by Brettus; Oct 19, 2007 at 11:03 PM.
I wasn't even considering a real power gain. Only 'effective' power gain due to lessened weight. That's why I grouped it with removing the interior.


