Gearing Change Help.......
We are looking into the possibility of running the car in other forms of competition, and would possibly consider changing the gearing to match whatever we do (Solo I, drifting, etc.). This is just in the talking stage, but I could have SWORN that I saw a site, somewhere, that already had a ring and pinion set for the RX-8 somewhere.
Does anyone remember (or know) ANYTHING about this???
I have looked everywhere I can remember, but no luck.
Does anyone remember (or know) ANYTHING about this???
I have looked everywhere I can remember, but no luck.
Are you referring to the Fujita Engineering final gear set? The link is here.
http://www.pac-gate.co.jp/feed/rx8.html
Scroll down, somewhere near the bottom of the page.
http://www.pac-gate.co.jp/feed/rx8.html
Scroll down, somewhere near the bottom of the page.
Originally Posted by IZoomZoomI
btw correct me if i'm wrong but wouldn't shortening the final gear improves accleration but limit top speed? I think it would be a good idea, i don't drive 148 mph all day.
Not sure if that's worth $600.
Originally Posted by tpryor
Yes, it will, but not enough. It's a (approx.) 15% increase (numerically), which in second gear translates to about a 500 rpm difference at the same speed.
Not sure if that's worth $600.
Not sure if that's worth $600.
Well there's a video where the feed rx8 goes up against the autoexe 8 i think on the 200m and lost about a half of second. Not sure what the autoexe had but I know both of them got a good launch off the stage. I paid attention to the shifting the feed 8 definetly hit the higher rpms faster but still didn't manage to beat it. It was pulling around 10.4 on the 200 and the other was like 9.9.
Originally Posted by IZoomZoomI
btw correct me if i'm wrong but wouldn't shortening the final gear improves accleration but limit top speed? I think it would be a good idea, i don't drive 148 mph all day.
I know that back when I was building drag racers in the late '70s, we usually put in rear end gears that were higher numerically than the current ones. We often went from 3.XXs to 4.11s or so to improve 1/4 mile acceleration. Of course, this resulted in more wheelspin, but definitely improved times.
So I believe the higher the numerical value, the better the 0-whatever acceleration will be, but the lower your top speed.
My understanding is final gear ratio is expressed in terms of wheel revolutions to driveshaft revolutions. So a 1:4 gear turns the wheel once for every four driveshaft revolutions. Change that to 1:6 and for a given engine RPM it takes less work to turn the rear wheel but the rear wheel turns less. Think of a rope and pulley system as a good analogy. Adding an extra pulley reduces work (ie effort) by half but doubles the amount of rope you need to pull to lift the object the same distance.
I always thought a tall gear meant lower ratio which translates to a longer time/speed range spent in gear before hitting redline. Likewise a short gear means narrower speed range and requires quicker shifts. So if you're racing from a moving start you want a tall first gear (since you don't care about acceleration from a stop) but shorter gears for 2-6 so you can keep the revs in the powerband.
________
Cheap airsoft gamo
I always thought a tall gear meant lower ratio which translates to a longer time/speed range spent in gear before hitting redline. Likewise a short gear means narrower speed range and requires quicker shifts. So if you're racing from a moving start you want a tall first gear (since you don't care about acceleration from a stop) but shorter gears for 2-6 so you can keep the revs in the powerband.
________
Cheap airsoft gamo
Last edited by PUR NRG; May 1, 2011 at 04:23 AM.
Originally Posted by Omicron
I thought it was the other way around. But I guess it depends on how you define "shorter" or "taller" gears.
I know that back when I was building drag racers in the late '70s, we usually put in rear end gears that were higher numerically than the current ones. We often went from 3.XXs to 4.11s or so to improve 1/4 mile acceleration. Of course, this resulted in more wheelspin, but definitely improved times.
So I believe the higher the numerical value, the better the 0-whatever acceleration will be, but the lower your top speed.
I know that back when I was building drag racers in the late '70s, we usually put in rear end gears that were higher numerically than the current ones. We often went from 3.XXs to 4.11s or so to improve 1/4 mile acceleration. Of course, this resulted in more wheelspin, but definitely improved times.
So I believe the higher the numerical value, the better the 0-whatever acceleration will be, but the lower your top speed.
Originally Posted by IZoomZoomI
if I was to get a shorter final gear how would I adjust the speedometer to match the actual rate of speed?
I wonder about that, myself. When I did my flywheel swap I saw two connectors. One was for the reverse light circuit and the other might have been a speedo or gear position circuit. Since I have read that the maps are different depending on the gear selected, I assumed it was for the gear position.
Charles
Charles
Some people have posted that the ignition timing changes not only with regard to rpm but also with regard to the gear selected and load placed on the engine. I would assume the load is detected via the vacuum signal. I cannot remember if it was specifically stated that the PCM monitors all of this and is responsible for the adjustments or if it was merely implied. I am sorry I cannot provide any more details other than that.
Charles
Charles
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