Exedy Stage 1 Clutch, Exedy Flywheel, F1 Counterweigh
04-16-2010, 09:43 AM
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch, Exedy Flywheel, F1 Counterweigh
I have 100000 mile on my 04 rx8, need to replace clutch. I saw some other owners had to replace it within 40k miles i guess depends on how you drive. Total cost about $1000 for Exedy Clutch, Flywheel, Counterweigh and Installation. I'll post the Feed back after 500milles brake in period. Thanks for Reading my Blog
Last edited by outhid; 05-13-2010 at 12:59 AM.
04-21-2010, 03:31 PM
#2
Tailgaters beware
I have 100000 mile on my 04 rx8, need to replace clutch. I saw some other owners had to replace it within 40k miles i guess depends on how you drive. Total cost about $1000 for Exedy Clutch, Flywheel, Counterweigh and Installation. I'll post the Feed back after 500milles brake in period. Thanks for Reading my Blog
Let us know how the Exedy does...
BTW The clutch that I am replacing after 5000 miles is the F1 Racing stage 2. I won't know for sure if the clutch is the whole problem until the Exedy goes in and the shop tells me what happened with the F1. Could be the dealer was pissed that I talked them down to about half price for the install and didnt pay for a OEM clutch. Originally they wanted $1150 for clutch and install, I paid $200 for F1 and $300 for install after bargaining. Not going to the dealer the second time around.
04-22-2010, 03:51 AM
#6
Yep I had to change my clutch after about 45000 miles. I put in a ebay p o s and now 5000 miles later I have an Exedy Stage 1 in my garage waiting to go in.
Let us know how the Exedy does...
BTW The clutch that I am replacing after 5000 miles is the F1 Racing stage 2. I won't know for sure if the clutch is the whole problem until the Exedy goes in and the shop tells me what happened with the F1. Could be the dealer was pissed that I talked them down to about half price for the install and didnt pay for a OEM clutch. Originally they wanted $1150 for clutch and install, I paid $200 for F1 and $300 for install after bargaining. Not going to the dealer the second time around.
Let us know how the Exedy does...
BTW The clutch that I am replacing after 5000 miles is the F1 Racing stage 2. I won't know for sure if the clutch is the whole problem until the Exedy goes in and the shop tells me what happened with the F1. Could be the dealer was pissed that I talked them down to about half price for the install and didnt pay for a OEM clutch. Originally they wanted $1150 for clutch and install, I paid $200 for F1 and $300 for install after bargaining. Not going to the dealer the second time around.
what is happening.
400 bucks is the going rate for a knowledgeable clutch change.. dealer or not.
beers
04-22-2010, 02:20 PM
#8
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got my Car back today, It drives like a factory car and I didn't notice any different, only the clutch engage faster when I release the clutch pedal, for $10000 this is an expensive month for me.
Well, next month i'll put it on dye no test to see how much horse power I get out of this.
If you are around Knoxville TN Area and need to get clutch work done I recommend Euro Asia Automotive on Kingston Pike, Omar the owner was very nice and gave the best price and took only 1 day to complete the job. (865) 249-6331
Thank you for checking out my blog
Well, next month i'll put it on dye no test to see how much horse power I get out of this.
If you are around Knoxville TN Area and need to get clutch work done I recommend Euro Asia Automotive on Kingston Pike, Omar the owner was very nice and gave the best price and took only 1 day to complete the job. (865) 249-6331
Thank you for checking out my blog
Last edited by outhid; 04-22-2010 at 02:31 PM.
04-22-2010, 04:47 PM
#13
Do reductions in parasitic driveline losses result in more power available to the wheels?
If weight were removed from the dyno rollers without recalibration, what would be the resulting measurements/numbers?
If weight were removed from the dyno rollers without recalibration, what would be the resulting measurements/numbers?
04-22-2010, 05:31 PM
#15
But, I can tell you that I reduced my 1/4 mile e.t.'s by .3s with a swap to a 9.25 lb. flywheel several years ago. That would translate to a very vague and broadbased equivalent of 15 h.p. at the rear wheels with the average RX-8. I said equivalent.
As RPMs rise, the benefits of a light flywheel increase and become more evident to people. That is an aspect of mathematics which is realized.
Whether or not this translates to measured rwhp increases, I am not sure because I consider the point moot.
At the same time, MM used to argue with me on the efficacy of lightweight flywheels....... until he finally adorned his ride with a BHR unit.
04-22-2010, 07:15 PM
#16
I don't think anyone, but an extreme minority of people, would argue that a flywheel in the range of 10 lbs. or less provides noticeable increases in acceleration and those who have done the swap generally do not want to swap back. How noticeable the gains?
But, I can tell you that I reduced my 1/4 mile e.t.'s by .3s with a swap to a 9.25 lb. flywheel several years ago. That would translate to a very vague and broadbased equivalent of 15 h.p. at the rear wheels with the average RX-8. I said equivalent.
As RPMs rise, the benefits of a light flywheel increase and become more evident to people. That is an aspect of mathematics which is realized.
Whether or not this translates to measured rwhp increases, I am not sure because I consider the point moot.
At the same time, MM used to argue with me on the efficacy of lightweight flywheels....... until he finally adorned his ride with a BHR unit.
But, I can tell you that I reduced my 1/4 mile e.t.'s by .3s with a swap to a 9.25 lb. flywheel several years ago. That would translate to a very vague and broadbased equivalent of 15 h.p. at the rear wheels with the average RX-8. I said equivalent.
As RPMs rise, the benefits of a light flywheel increase and become more evident to people. That is an aspect of mathematics which is realized.
Whether or not this translates to measured rwhp increases, I am not sure because I consider the point moot.
At the same time, MM used to argue with me on the efficacy of lightweight flywheels....... until he finally adorned his ride with a BHR unit.
04-22-2010, 08:44 PM
#17
Yeah, I didn't think we were disagreeing either, but I am wondering if he will see any rwhp gain from the flywheel. Maybe not with THAT particular unit but I do wonder if the gains are able to be measured, how light of a flywheel does it need to be before they become measureable?
04-24-2010, 05:18 PM
#18
Tailgaters beware
I think I really didn't need a new clutch to begin with, it may have been that the peddle broke. I didn't find out about the peddle problems that occur at 40k miles until after all of this was done. My clutch engaged real good before my peddle all of a sudden dropped to the floor at an angle. I then had it towed to the dealer.
The problems I'm having since the F1 install are as follows...
1. a squeaking sound that sometimes goes away (might be the pilot bearing is what I've heard, maybe they didn't grease it)
2. Idle goes up and down while car is warming up with the clutch peddle in the up position, but car in neutral. If you press in the clutch it idles fine. (seems like the clutch is not aligned good so is rubbing on one part do motor is compensating while warming up) Maybe from not turning the flywheel?
3. If you try and shift while in high rpms 8200+, the peddle sticks to the ground until the inertia is gone (about 3 seconds) and then finally pops up and engages.
4. Chatters like an old buick with a bad transmission when you engage smoothly from a stop.
When the trans was rebuilt my dealer said I had about 500 miles left in my stock clutch, and wanted to do the clutch for $1150 with the tranny rebuild. They said it would be cheaper to do, since the tranny is already out. Then 2 months later when the "clutch" broke, they said it would be $1150. So where was the "cheaper with tranny already out"?
Last edited by Rocketman1976; 04-24-2010 at 05:22 PM.
04-24-2010, 05:27 PM
#19
Tailgaters beware
Yeah, I didn't think we were disagreeing either, but I am wondering if he will see any rwhp gain from the flywheel. Maybe not with THAT particular unit but I do wonder if the gains are able to be measured, how light of a flywheel does it need to be before they become measureable?
But I am not sure if that is a problem with Rotarys and their power improvement since they use RPMs, more so than engine mass, to help in creating power.
If I could get some of your opinions on that I would appreciate it.
Last edited by Rocketman1976; 04-24-2010 at 05:55 PM.
04-24-2010, 06:23 PM
#20
Engines do not lose torque from light flywheels. To sum it up, I always say "Flywheels are for people, not engines." What happens is that flywheels deal with time, meaning that a heavier flywheel delays the onset of engine RPM reduction as the clutch is slowly engaged, due to the storage of inertia/kinetic energy. This provides a greater margin of error before engine stalling for the average driver, and this margin of error is considered when the OEMs determine proper flywheel weight (or, more accurately, polar moment of inertia).
As we reduce the flywheel weight, this margin of error is reduced and the driver must exercise a heightened awareness of the friction zone when engaging the clutch to prevent stalling. (The friction zone is the time from when the clutch starts to engage to the time it is fully engaged.)
After installing a lighter flywheel, place the car on a level driving surface and let the engine idle. As you slowly raise the clutch pedal to engage the clutch, do NOT give the engine more gas as the idle control/anti-stall circuit in the PCM will take over and prevent the engine from stalling. Once you have mastered the art of engaging the clutch without stalling the engine in this fashion, you can then start the process of refining your gas pedal finesse and begin to target about 1,500 RPMs as a take-off point. Try and leave from a dead-stop without going over 1,500 while engaging the clutch at the same time. Once you have mastered THIS, you will be driving your car as smoothly as you were before the flywheel swap.
BTW, I have used this technique to master driving my own light flywheel and light clutch combo and not only can I take off from a dead-stop as smooth as I did when it was all OEM stuff, I can also shift through the gears so smooth you don't feel the shifts (without excessive clucth slippage, either.).
Be patient, take your time, and you'll have lotsa fun with that light flywheel.
As we reduce the flywheel weight, this margin of error is reduced and the driver must exercise a heightened awareness of the friction zone when engaging the clutch to prevent stalling. (The friction zone is the time from when the clutch starts to engage to the time it is fully engaged.)
After installing a lighter flywheel, place the car on a level driving surface and let the engine idle. As you slowly raise the clutch pedal to engage the clutch, do NOT give the engine more gas as the idle control/anti-stall circuit in the PCM will take over and prevent the engine from stalling. Once you have mastered the art of engaging the clutch without stalling the engine in this fashion, you can then start the process of refining your gas pedal finesse and begin to target about 1,500 RPMs as a take-off point. Try and leave from a dead-stop without going over 1,500 while engaging the clutch at the same time. Once you have mastered THIS, you will be driving your car as smoothly as you were before the flywheel swap.
BTW, I have used this technique to master driving my own light flywheel and light clutch combo and not only can I take off from a dead-stop as smooth as I did when it was all OEM stuff, I can also shift through the gears so smooth you don't feel the shifts (without excessive clucth slippage, either.
).Be patient, take your time, and you'll have lotsa fun with that light flywheel.
04-24-2010, 11:17 PM
#21
My trans is only two months older than the F1 Clutch and was fine with the stock clutch so I am pretty sure I don't have trans problems.
I think I really didn't need a new clutch to begin with, it may have been that the peddle broke. I didn't find out about the peddle problems that occur at 40k miles until after all of this was done. My clutch engaged real good before my peddle all of a sudden dropped to the floor at an angle. I then had it towed to the dealer.
The problems I'm having since the F1 install are as follows...
1. a squeaking sound that sometimes goes away (might be the pilot bearing is what I've heard, maybe they didn't grease it)
2. Idle goes up and down while car is warming up with the clutch peddle in the up position, but car in neutral. If you press in the clutch it idles fine. (seems like the clutch is not aligned good so is rubbing on one part do motor is compensating while warming up) Maybe from not turning the flywheel?
neutral pos switch
3. If you try and shift while in high rpms 8200+, the peddle sticks to the ground until the inertia is gone (about 3 seconds) and then finally pops up and engages.
4. Chatters like an old buick with a bad transmission when you engage smoothly from a stop.
ppf alighnment.
When the trans was rebuilt my dealer said I had about 500 miles left in my stock clutch, and wanted to do the clutch for $1150 with the tranny rebuild. They said it would be cheaper to do, since the tranny is already out. Then 2 months later when the "clutch" broke, they said it would be $1150. So where was the "cheaper with tranny already out"?
I think I really didn't need a new clutch to begin with, it may have been that the peddle broke. I didn't find out about the peddle problems that occur at 40k miles until after all of this was done. My clutch engaged real good before my peddle all of a sudden dropped to the floor at an angle. I then had it towed to the dealer.
The problems I'm having since the F1 install are as follows...
1. a squeaking sound that sometimes goes away (might be the pilot bearing is what I've heard, maybe they didn't grease it)
2. Idle goes up and down while car is warming up with the clutch peddle in the up position, but car in neutral. If you press in the clutch it idles fine. (seems like the clutch is not aligned good so is rubbing on one part do motor is compensating while warming up) Maybe from not turning the flywheel?
neutral pos switch
3. If you try and shift while in high rpms 8200+, the peddle sticks to the ground until the inertia is gone (about 3 seconds) and then finally pops up and engages.
4. Chatters like an old buick with a bad transmission when you engage smoothly from a stop.
ppf alighnment.
When the trans was rebuilt my dealer said I had about 500 miles left in my stock clutch, and wanted to do the clutch for $1150 with the tranny rebuild. They said it would be cheaper to do, since the tranny is already out. Then 2 months later when the "clutch" broke, they said it would be $1150. So where was the "cheaper with tranny already out"?
04-25-2010, 09:44 AM
#22
Tailgaters beware
05-13-2010, 12:56 AM
#23
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't know if it's a common think for lighter Flywheel to happen, while I was driving at 75mph sometimes 80mph the engine light kept blinking to shot it down I'd had to stepped on gas to increase the rpm. Then the light will go off after 10 to 30 second. Exedy Stage 1 clutch and Lightweight flywheel, F1 racing 4.1 lbs Counterweight. Is it parts or installation problem Anyone have any Idea?
05-28-2010, 02:47 AM
#24
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Technically if you dyno a car with a stock flywheel, replace with a lightened flywheel, and redyno you will see an increase to the rear wheels. Same with lighter wheels. You didn't GAIN hp, but you wasted less in the drivetrain. Parasitic losses will go down as it takes less energy to spin the flywheel.
IIRC every lb of rotational mass removed is equivalent to removing like 3.3lbs of static mass as far as acceleration and braking are concerned. Less energy wasted and less energy to dissipate into heat while braking.
BC
IIRC every lb of rotational mass removed is equivalent to removing like 3.3lbs of static mass as far as acceleration and braking are concerned. Less energy wasted and less energy to dissipate into heat while braking.
BC
05-28-2010, 03:30 AM
#25
I don't know if it's a common think for lighter Flywheel to happen, while I was driving at 75mph sometimes 80mph the engine light kept blinking to shot it down I'd had to stepped on gas to increase the rpm. Then the light will go off after 10 to 30 second. Exedy Stage 1 clutch and Lightweight flywheel, F1 racing 4.1 lbs Counterweight. Is it parts or installation problem Anyone have any Idea?