bse50

You would have to design the right "funnel" of the right varying diameters (inlet\outlet) etc. You can't do that given the difference in diameters (grille surface\intake pipe diameter).

b2fast007

already made design. Just cannot believe i was first to do it. do not know yet how i am going to tune it since a dyno is out. No air flow, will be a few months to build prototype.lots of molds to make of the space behind the bumper find the golden path to the intake inlet. was hoping to get more insight but i guess someone has to be the innovator

HiFlite999

iTrader: (2)

The ram air effect will be impossible to measure at anything like normal speeds. My airplanes had a ram air feature which bypassed the under-cowl air filter to take air directly from the nose of the plane. At 150 mph, opening the ram air increased the manifold pressure (and hence hp) by about 5%.

rickeo

iTrader: (1)

You'll lose power and it will sound ridiculous. Read the New and Potential Owners thread to find out why.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

That's not a ram air intake, or even a cold air intake. That's a hot air intake. If you think that because it says K&N on the side it will magically make everything better, I have a K&N branded cement bag you can toss in your trunk. It's good for an extra 5mpg and 20hp... really it say so on the bag.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

That was hilarious.

Slidin8

You sound mad bro

Slidin8

its because you didn't do your homework and bought an intake that costing you money and horsepower

just sell it, but an aem or a rb

you'll be fine, chin up

b2fast007

was not aware they raced lincoln's. I bet they corner great at 100mph on back country roads, mountain passes, and road circuits. everyone on the import tuning sites is an expert about everything. Get used to it do what you want its your car and money. Just make sure you research your purchases wisely no before and after dyno with visible font size no buy good rule with rotary engine. So where is the next sanctioned Lincoln race want to go watch.

b2fast007

sarcasm is very effective. it also helps to weed out the bloggers

b2fast007

eric embrace the losers. it won't take but a few more weeks to figure out who to not respond to. they stand out, view profiles of rude people, read their posts and you will see them for what they are.

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

You may read, but you don't understand. What they are trying to tell you is the K&N system draws warm air from the engine compartment and is more restrictive than the OEM intake. This causes a slight reduction of MPG and HP. The only thing that it does increase is the amount of noise coming from the engine. These results have been documented, on this site, many times over about 8 yrs.

The K&N panel filter used in the OEM intake does increase HP slightly. This is because it is less restrictive than a OEM style filter. But, it will let through particles that hurt the engine. The RX8 racing teams used Mazda OEM filters on their race cars due to this reason.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

reaper, it entirely depends on what you are looking to get for your money. If all you are looking to get is some extra noise and a change in the engine bay visuals that you find appealing at the cost of $198 + some lost horsepower, then by all means, you have achieved your desired goal.

Most of the longer term people here expect that people buy intakes to improve the car's performance, so they may have the wrong assumption of what your goals are. Many here (myself included), do not see the point of spending money to reduce the performance of an engine that is already thought of as weak and under-powered. Everyone is entitled to an opinion though.



Aside from goals and opinions however, keep in mind that you may not encounter it immediately, but you will probably start getting throwing a check engine light and may see a drop in idle stability. The K&N doesn't have a sufficiently appropriate design to keep the airflow straight across the MAF sensor, and the ECU will be struggling with the changing airflow profile. This part isn't opinion, and is intended simply to give you a heads up on what you can expect to deal with.


b2fast,

Our primary power problem is indeed airflow, but it isn't the pre-combustion airflow. It's the exhaust, and the restriction is at the engine. Until you can design around that "restrictor plate" of the small exhaust ports, gains will continue to be negligible. You are increasing the overhead room you would have on the amount of air the intake can flow however, so there is still value there for when you do get the exhaust ports opened up better.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

To dovetail on that, Mazda put serious thought and effort into the entire intake system, from the manifolds down to the filter. It is a very well designed well flowing system.

NA power will come from, porting, removal of the cat, tuning. You can make some minor adjustments to the stock intake system to improve its efficiency slightly.

reaper76

iTrader: (1)

Thanks to the guys in the last few posts. Your info was informative and at the same time not belittling. I appreciate that. I may return the filter set up and go with the other suggested. My car did not come a stock airbox. It only has a cone filter attatched to the stock intake hose. That said I was looking for a solution that had proper mounting. Again thanks

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

There are oodles of stock boxes you can buy on the forum and ebay.

I'd recommend getting a stock setup, replacing your spark plugs and getting the BHR ignition eventually.

Thats a good baseline to start from.

WreakLoosE

Hay Dood... You gotta have thick skin here and look before you ask.. our it will get kinda hot on ya real quick.. lol.. Any how, the Racing Beat REVI intake with the cold air duct or the AEM/Mazdaspeed intake are the way to go.. BHR ignition, and a good exhaust and you are off to a good start.

reaper76

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice!

reaper76

iTrader: (1)

The car has a full service history and had the ignition system completely tuned up before I bought it. The car has 88k on it right now on the original motor. I am now the second owner. I hope to get allot more life out of it!

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

I had a cone air filter too when I bought mine. That was the first thing I got rid of and I haven't looked back. Stock is arguably the best. If you want it a little louder and a little (possibly imaginary) more HP then remove the baffles from inside the stock filter box.

ashlizzard

[QUOTE=rotarygod;1146569]


...Hmm...covered the whole subject very accurately...and I'm all for people running on a bit when they know what they're talking about...do have a problem with this statement however..

"Also remember you can't measure ram air on a dyno. A lot of people only believe in dyno numbers. It's an incomplete way of thinking."


...Well...yes you can...why would you think you couldn't?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Necro much?

gwilliams6

The AEM/Mazdaspeed and Racing Beat CAI are the only ones that will give you a slight bump in hp. All the other CAI will cost you HP. A "good" CAI on a Renesis engine ("good" meaning actually taking in air from a cooler air location than stock setup, and of proper length and design not to mess with the airflow over the MAF ) can give you up to one hp improvement for every 10-15 degrees of cooler intake air. Many knowledgeable folks here will argue that point. I respect their opinions.

In my case I have used CAI on a few of my RXs and it has made a small hp improvement in my cars. I have the Mazdaspeed CAI on my 2008 40th Anniversary Edition RX8. Note: the location of the air filter on the Mazdaspeed/AEM CAI has some slight risk of possible water ingestion in flood conditions. (less risk with the filter sock, standard on recent models)

I agree reducing exhaust restriction will yield a greater improvement, but most of us live in states where emissions won't allow us to legally run catless straight open exhaust systems. BHR and others have great catless exhaust systems now and in development that promise and deliver better hp improvement than any current intake.

My non street-legal RX7 had free flow exhaust and a Racing Beat built ported and turbocharged (specially built w/ low compression rotors and special apex seals so it could run high boost and stay together) 13B Rotary engine and with lots of other mods (intake,ignition,fuel system, cooling ,tranny,diff. etc ) was a beast with 400+ hp.

Follow the advice of experienced folks here and return to the stock box for the safest good choice.