DIY: AEM Twin-Fire CDI Ignition Install
02-09-2007, 05:39 PM
#54
Marietta8 has been using the HKS Twin Power without issue. He claims there's no gain on an NA car, but has seen it help with FI. If true, I would expect that it might benefit N0S as well. In fact, it's being boxed and sent to me shortly. It's an allowed mod so I picked it up for peace of mind.
Have you tapped into the coil ground wires and tied them into the the battery ground? There are people claiming that this eliminates the coil frying problem. I haven't done this, not sure it's even legal for STU, but haven't had any coil problems either
Have you tapped into the coil ground wires and tied them into the the battery ground? There are people claiming that this eliminates the coil frying problem. I haven't done this, not sure it's even legal for STU, but haven't had any coil problems either
02-09-2007, 05:48 PM
#55
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Hey CRH, I am actually partially installed on my twin fire, just gotta get motivated to get the parts needed for the interface that MM had to make. I already have the coils mounted, the twin fire is located in my battery box. all the wires are ran.
i know they arent great pics, i took em wed night in the dark.
hopefully i will have the parts i need and the circuit built to at least test it out by the time you get down here on the 25th
i know they arent great pics, i took em wed night in the dark.
hopefully i will have the parts i need and the circuit built to at least test it out by the time you get down here on the 25th
02-10-2007, 02:41 PM
#59
I can't seem to find the part no. for the new OE coils, anybody?
technically I can add the HKS DLI II but not cut into the OE harness, what the DLII will allow is for me to cut into the HKS harness instead, which I can then modify for added coil grounds or even dfifferent coils
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...29&postcount=1
technically I can add the HKS DLI II but not cut into the OE harness, what the DLII will allow is for me to cut into the HKS harness instead, which I can then modify for added coil grounds or even dfifferent coils
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...29&postcount=1
Last edited by TeamRX8; 02-10-2007 at 02:53 PM.
02-10-2007, 10:13 PM
#63
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
N3H1-18-100
nope, that's the old number
found it: N3H1-18-100A-9U
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/new-oem-ignition-coils-101317/
you have to use the -9U on the end as there's an "A" revsion on the old coil number too and all three still register in the parts distribution network
$21 ea through Motorsports, w00t
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 02-10-2007 at 10:21 PM.
02-11-2007, 11:04 AM
#67
it lets me go all the way to checkout payment; $39 for the two old ones and $21 for the new one, but you're right that what gets sent & charged later could possibly be different, but not always, the only guarantee is to order the correct part #
02-11-2007, 12:12 PM
#69
Motorsports online order screen, supposedly tied into the system, I tried to do an inventory check and that sysem was currently down, they may come back as 0 inventory, I'll check again later, I have seen superceded parts still available in the system numerous times though
02-11-2007, 02:59 PM
#70
I had one that failed and tested abnormal on the pri.
I had another that failed slowly..and seemed to throw codes, but tested normal until it quit completely.
These coils are the most inconsistant that I have seen on any car i have ever worked on.
For $20ish per coil....I would change them like the spark plugs
I had another that failed slowly..and seemed to throw codes, but tested normal until it quit completely.
These coils are the most inconsistant that I have seen on any car i have ever worked on.
For $20ish per coil....I would change them like the spark plugs
05-25-2007, 09:30 PM
#74
Something just occurred to me -
Isn't the best path to ground for the coil going to be the plug?
Then, why are we worried about the ground of the coil? All it does is give a reference to the trigger signal. As long as it is ground, there should be almost no current across it.
Its the power source to the coils that should be under scrutiny.
The path for the most current is from the positive terminal to the plug (I know electricity flows from negative to positive, but the path is the same) and the plug to coil interface is pretty massive - save the gap that the spark must jump.
On the power side of the coil, each coil is few through a 20ga wire that is bundled with all the other coil wires to a single 20ga wire that runs all the way through the harness and back again.
It seems to me that wiring the plus side with 18ga and then tying them together through a 12ga wire directly to a power source would be the way to maximize current through the coil.
Isn't the best path to ground for the coil going to be the plug?
Then, why are we worried about the ground of the coil? All it does is give a reference to the trigger signal. As long as it is ground, there should be almost no current across it.
Its the power source to the coils that should be under scrutiny.
The path for the most current is from the positive terminal to the plug (I know electricity flows from negative to positive, but the path is the same) and the plug to coil interface is pretty massive - save the gap that the spark must jump.
On the power side of the coil, each coil is few through a 20ga wire that is bundled with all the other coil wires to a single 20ga wire that runs all the way through the harness and back again.
It seems to me that wiring the plus side with 18ga and then tying them together through a 12ga wire directly to a power source would be the way to maximize current through the coil.
