Which air intake to get
#1
Which air intake to get
So i just bought a weapon r air intake and was womdering if thats a good choice. I read acouple things on here sayin it took power away. You think i should return and get a different one?
#2
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Yes, weapon-r is one of the worst offenders when it comes to losing power from aftermarket intakes. K&N being the other one it competes with at the bottom. Only way to get worse than those is with ebay no-name-brand stuff.
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WCS's pic was actually done by someone, and it's retarded. He was posting it as a joke. Look at the neck that they both go down to. It's still the restriction point, not to mention it's lacking any airflow control, etc...
Intakes are FAR more complicated than some people realize.
Racing Beat, AEM, and Mazdaspeed are the only ones proven to produce gains in power.
Intakes are FAR more complicated than some people realize.
Racing Beat, AEM, and Mazdaspeed are the only ones proven to produce gains in power.
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Another that gets overlooked because it's pricey.
Mazda RX8 Cold Air Intake System. Mazda RX-8 Horsepower Performance Parts.
Mazda RX8 Cold Air Intake System. Mazda RX-8 Horsepower Performance Parts.
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Several reasons:
1) The intake opening is inside our engine bay, which gets rather hot. Even the OEM intake pulls area from outside the engine bay. Hot air means less air, and less air means less power.
2) The length from the opening the filter / opening of the intake to the MAF is much shorter than OEM, leading to different airflow characteristics over the MAF, that the ECU doesn't expect
3) There is no design consideration to straighten the airflow across the MAF, unlike the OEM intake with screens, which compounds the problem present in #2.
4) Historical evidence from numerous members here report rough idle, stumbling idle, CELs ranging from bad MAF airflow to lean and/or rich conditions while the ECU tries to figure out what kind of airflow the engine is actually seeing ... and keeps getting it wrong.
1) The intake opening is inside our engine bay, which gets rather hot. Even the OEM intake pulls area from outside the engine bay. Hot air means less air, and less air means less power.
2) The length from the opening the filter / opening of the intake to the MAF is much shorter than OEM, leading to different airflow characteristics over the MAF, that the ECU doesn't expect
3) There is no design consideration to straighten the airflow across the MAF, unlike the OEM intake with screens, which compounds the problem present in #2.
4) Historical evidence from numerous members here report rough idle, stumbling idle, CELs ranging from bad MAF airflow to lean and/or rich conditions while the ECU tries to figure out what kind of airflow the engine is actually seeing ... and keeps getting it wrong.
#16
Several reasons:
1) The intake opening is inside our engine bay, which gets rather hot. Even the OEM intake pulls area from outside the engine bay. Hot air means less air, and less air means less power.
2) The length from the opening the filter / opening of the intake to the MAF is much shorter than OEM, leading to different airflow characteristics over the MAF, that the ECU doesn't expect
3) There is no design consideration to straighten the airflow across the MAF, unlike the OEM intake with screens, which compounds the problem present in #2.
4) Historical evidence from numerous members here report rough idle, stumbling idle, CELs ranging from bad MAF airflow to lean and/or rich conditions while the ECU tries to figure out what kind of airflow the engine is actually seeing ... and keeps getting it wrong.
1) The intake opening is inside our engine bay, which gets rather hot. Even the OEM intake pulls area from outside the engine bay. Hot air means less air, and less air means less power.
2) The length from the opening the filter / opening of the intake to the MAF is much shorter than OEM, leading to different airflow characteristics over the MAF, that the ECU doesn't expect
3) There is no design consideration to straighten the airflow across the MAF, unlike the OEM intake with screens, which compounds the problem present in #2.
4) Historical evidence from numerous members here report rough idle, stumbling idle, CELs ranging from bad MAF airflow to lean and/or rich conditions while the ECU tries to figure out what kind of airflow the engine is actually seeing ... and keeps getting it wrong.
#17
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1-4ish hp. It won't be much.
Yes, the stock intake IS actually that good.
Take a look through my newbie's guide to modding thread (in my sig). There is a section on intakes.
Yes, the stock intake IS actually that good.
Take a look through my newbie's guide to modding thread (in my sig). There is a section on intakes.
#20
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dynos show that the intake barely improves hp.
My baffles were removed and i didnt have my exhaust connected so my car was pretty loud when i put my intake on, so when i put my exhaust back on and it quieted down, i didnt notice and noise increase or power increase..
but the intake looks pretty!
#21
Ya but I just returned and doing some more research
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A thought...
even with the factory intake, you get a lot of hot air into the intake. I see 15 to 20 degree rises once the engine heats up, and the radiator starts to heat all the air behind the bumper.
The racing beat duct makes sure you get cold air. I am saving up for that one, with the factory intake. It is a little harder to install, but not bad.
Just my opinion...
even with the factory intake, you get a lot of hot air into the intake. I see 15 to 20 degree rises once the engine heats up, and the radiator starts to heat all the air behind the bumper.
The racing beat duct makes sure you get cold air. I am saving up for that one, with the factory intake. It is a little harder to install, but not bad.
Just my opinion...