Thanks for the help guys, i pulled out the pulley to inspect it for damages and put it back in after it looked perfectly fine.

Weird - the problem seems to have rectified itself so i'm guessing there was a problem with my installation... lol

 

Just installed my Agency Power Underdrive Pulley, and just wanted to say thanks for all the informations on this post. Everyone helped answer my questions and made the install quick and easy.

First Impressions:
I dont know about the HP gains, but all i can say is that i smile everytime i t hit 5000 RPM and get thrown back in my seat. the car zips through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears. I COULD NOT BE HAPPIER whit this mod.

Ill Effects:
None noticed so far. did notice that when starting up warm, the car idle's low and have to keep rpm's up till it stabalizes. also, when starting the car, lights dim (RR LED footwell lights) but no big deal after start up.

for the money, this mod is worth it!

 

heh - so that didn't happen before you got the pulley ?

 

Now go on ebay and get the light weight alt pulley that usually goes for $38 and you're done.

 

How much weight/power does the light weight alt pulley free up?

 

come on..........search
and i guess about a pound and 1 or 2 hp

 

Stock only weighs 5.5 oz, is 3 oz going to make a difference?

 

Oh, good call, I misread the post. You are talking about the alternator pulley...

I don't know how much it weighs

 

If I remember correctly from when Staticlag & I installed mine, it was about 1.5 lbs difference.. If that?

 

thats the difference with the UD pulley, not the alternator pulley

 

my bad.........no attention to detail, the alt pulley will give you .2 hp

 

has anyone installed the AP pulley without an impact wrench or torque wrench?

 

You dont need an impact gun for the Agency Power pulley. You don't really need a torque wrench either, but a torque wrench is highly valuable if you want to tighten your bolts correctly.

 

I installed mine tonight. Right away it squeeled a little bit, but after a couple of minutes, it went away. No CEL or any other lights on. (I did the brake tap) You think I'm ok? I took it out for a spin and just drove. I didnt tear around in it, or go WOT. I feel like I"m walking on thin ice. Not sure if I did it correct. You think I'm ok?

 

Sounds like you're good. It takes a couple drive cycles for the e-shaft sensor to make corrections but I found by the 2nd day I was able to drive the car like normal.

As long as you reset the sensor and made sure your belts are tight you should be fine.

 

I don't think its supposed to be squeeling. I think that happened to me when I had that mod, and it was due to over tightening the belt or something like that.

 

It only squeeled a little bit from the very first start. I wanna say a minute 2 at most. Now it doesnt squeel anymore when I start it. No CELs or anything like that either. I'm going to assume I'm good?

 

should be good to go. check the belts after a few driving sessions to make sure they havent loosened up

 

I didnt go a back to back pull when I had my agency pulley put on but, I went from 185 to 190. I believe it does add some power but it seemed to add more at the power band and not down low. It wasnt long after that, I think I may be having problems with the ignition system but not sure yet. I have places above 6k where there are gaps in the dyno line. When I get the money, I am going to replace the sparkplug, wires, and if that doesnt do the trick, going to have the coils checked again as well. The last time it was making gaps, I had the coils checked and they were still good. It did help when I changed the sparkplugs and did a run just after that but, the gaps seem to come back not long after so it may be the coils or wires or both. Good excuse to upgrade the wires, any suggestions to what wires are best quality?

 

gaps in the line on the dyno are because of the dyno rpm pickup. Not because of your ignition

 

I didnt know that. My dyno looked a little like wesleys in that there are gaps at the higher rpm range. Seems like everytime that happened, the run was low. I had one run that the best power was just over 170. We both have our cars tested at the same place but, I dont know Wesley personally at all. I have never met him but looking at his posted dynos, some of mine were the same(with the gaps). When I replaced the plugs, it did not do it as bad, if any, and the power read out was more consistent so that was my best guess. Any other information would be helpful for me about this car and the ignition system as well. I love the 8 and want to be more knowledgable about it as well. I know the basics now and have been learning more and more. Its a great car and is getting better the more I understand it. The rotary bug had bitten me pretty bad but, just need someone to help me understand it better. Thanks for all the past, present, and any future help.

 

I just installed the AP and Greddy pulleys on my 05 and I have a hard CEL that wont seem to go away.

Did the brake trick and also the odometer trick and it's still there.

It comes on right when I start it and when I get up in the 6-7k range it starts to blink but then goes back to solid when I shift.

I know I could disconnect the battery but I have heard that my remote for unlocking it wont work after I do this and I have to get it towed to a dealer and reprogram the key.

Should I just drive it and let it work itself out?

 

Just cause you DC your batter you won't lose your key FOB controls I dont know what moron told you that and the Brake Dance resets the Eccentric Shaft not the CEL codes only DCing the Battery will do that unless you have you go get the codes cleared yourself.

 

just pull your room fuse on the kick panel(left foot)...leave it out for 60 sec and it resets everything...

 

Thanks I'll try and pull that fuse out and see what happens.