Based on experience! From what I have seen their are a bunch of "issues" with the plug n play set up that comes w/Greddy kit.

Keep in mind that the Renesis 13b was not delivered as a turbo powerplant therefore a bolt on kit w/piggyback(bandaid on a bullet wound) management is asking something of the engine that the rather knowledgeable engineers at Mazda did not design for. Have a look at a Renesis rotor cut in half sometime and see for yourself that the guts are simply not as beefy as the 13b RE or REW. The apex seal grooves are not as deep, the rotor face is not as strong.

Getting down from my soapbox now and leaving you w/this: Properly managed
would include preparation for forced induction which would mean that stock heat range plugs would be for a stock configuration.

 

Changing the heat range on the plugs is a bandaid solution for an engine management issue. If the plug is the hot spot in the combustion chamber (something that is very difficult to acheive in a rotary motor because the plugs a recessed), than you have other, bigger problems.
The MSP rotors are beefier than the REW as ar the seals. Don't divert the argument with other bad data.

 

I am going to disagree w/ you because I believe that you are wrong. I will no doubt get an argument from you about that too. Enjoy your toys Jeff!

Charlie Shatzen
Mazcare Inc

 

No argument there. OBviously you believe I am wrong.
However, you have yet to actually provide a cogent thesis for why you are right.

I constantly hear people spout off age-old nuggets of tuning folklore like colder plugs and higher fuel pressure without any supporting info.

Of course, in many circumstances having colder plugs would be of some benefit. I know in my MX-3 they were, but that was because I read the plugs and they could tolerate going down a range.
The RX-8 plugs that I have seen on turbo vehicles beyond my own have mostly been fouled to some degree. This would be a bad candidate for colder plugs, even if the motor was detonating under boost. The answer would lie elsewhere.

There is much more involved in tuning than just throwing old ideas at new cars. I'd hope that someone who professes to be a professional would know that.

 

Cogent? Have a nice day and good luck to you with your projects. I hope they all work out beautifully for you and your little dog.

 

Fortunately, the dog has gotten pretty good at hepling me determine my stainless stock from my mild steel. So, of course - my projects always work out beautifully. I don't let them depend on "common wisdom". Concensus is not science.

 

Whoa calm down now. I was just wondering if I needed new plugs. I figure I'll just see which setup works better once it's installed. What do recommend as far as boost controllers and bovs? I'm looking at the Greddy profac 2 B and the the type S bov, any other suggestions? Also, when I go to change the map on the emanage, what will I need? I've seen the emanage tool and the CanScan. Which one will work better? I want to get the most out of this kit once I'm done with it. Any opinions are welcome.

 

The E-Manage tool is required to upload MAPs to the E-Manage.
The Profec B is great and simple. Good choice. The Profec E-01 is cool because of the display and programming options, but it might be overkill.
The Type RS BOV might be a better choice. I am using an HKS SSQ BOV.
You will want to use the hottest plugs you can. Start with the stock plugs. If you have any pre-ignition issues, you should check your A/F first. You will want a stand-alone WBO2S if possible. You can use the CANScan for this instead, however.
If A/F is good, you should wire your E-Manage for igntion control and pull about 2° per pound of boost.

 

Funny ... all the sudden I get images of Fabio kicking sand in the face of some fella who's just trying to enjoy a bit of sunshine on his little bit of beach.

Did ya even bother to look at the first posting of "your" thread? Guess ya don't recall typing that , huh?

Great common wisdom by the way... we should all be so wise and gifted.

 

Oops. You are right. I thought this was my dyno thread. Too many to keep track of.
I'll retract that part.

 

Ok thanks for all the info. How do you like the SSQ? I looked at getting that one also, but seems everyone is using a Greedy one. I like the way the SSQ looks. Do you have any sound clips or pics?

Jamie

 

By the way, do I need both the CanScan and the Emanage or the CZ?

 

There is a video clip around here somewhere where you can hear my BOV. I can't rememeber where it is at the moment.

The CANSCan software allows you to read the factory ECU. The Support Tool from Greddy allows you to program your E-Manage that comes with the turbo kit.
They do different things.

 

Oh ok, so I need both of them to tune it right?

 

Yes - or you can get a wide-band O2 sensor like the LM-1 instead of the CANScan. It will be more accurate, but it is less useful.

 

So the CANScan would work better? I'll probaly end up getting it. Is there anything else you think I'll need to get some more power out of this kit?

Jamie

 

I wrongly assumed that a man of science ( you are a scientist right?) would pay attention to little details like where you might be posting or what thread you did not start. I lay awake at night dreaming about the sound of your blow off valve.

" Mmmmmm, that's hot. There's not a man alive that wouldn't be turned on by that."

H. Simpson

Sorry moderators, I just couldn't resist.

 

Nope. I get a dozen thread updates an hour and some (like yours) have titles dangerously close to others.
Still waiting.

 

And that is exactly what I am talking about.
I bet he is a great guy and full of knowledge. I know nothing to prove otherwise.
However, why would you do anything just because someone said to?

I'm not telling anyone not to swap to colder plugs. I'm telling you to question whether or not that is a real solution - the best solution - to a problem that may or may not even exist.

If you have a motor that detonates, you need to question why. Simply swapping to colder plugs because that worked for someone somewhere is ludicrous. In the Renesis, it is far more likely that your A/F is lean or your timing too advanced for boost than your plugs are too hot.

 

The way I see it, if I start having problems I'll try the colder plugs and if that doesnt help then I probaly dont need them. I'm not going to try to fix it unless it has a problem to begin with. I'm going to try the colder plugs to see what the difference is, I'll let everyone know what differences there are.

 

if it is someone that is infinitately more knowledgable about the subject than i am (like charlie is), i might. i would at least take it into serious consideration and research the problem to see if it might be a solution.

 

Deference to someone with more experience shows wisdom.

 

Inquisition and observation of someone with more experience shows wisdom.
Deference to anything simply shows accedence.

 

ok have to step in.
Deferance to ANYTHING referrs to absence of intelligence. Deferance to wisdom is trust. Wisdom is obtained through intelligence, objectivity and experience. Trust is gained through honesty and good intentions.
Jeff , I'm sure you are a good guy and I have read many threads and responses you have written. You have helped a lot with the growth of this forum and that is good. Out of that respect let me give you a little advice-- If two are more people are trying to tell you something, you need to listen. And as you are very aware--this is not about sparkplugs.
olddragger

 

I knew it.

This was about synthetic oil all along.