cavemancan

Get a compression test before you start to celebrate dude. It's peice of mind that the issue is not the engine. Not to mention the test is cheap with MazdaPro's...Like $60 to $80.

Besides this...anything to report when you were cleaning ****? Was the throtle body really dirty? What about the crank position sensor. Jebus man...Would you at least give more information other than your happy...This could help someone else out if they ever read this.

Stop being lazy!

scolon

iTrader: (2)

My phone logged me out after I finished typing this so here I go again starting all over >=(

Last weekend I reset the fuel trims as recommended by chino which seemed to help out the car a lot. It ran smoother throughout the rest of the week.

Today I was able to knock out the stuff you suggested. All of this stuff I've done within the last year but I guess it was about that time again.

The MAF sensor was basically clean. I sprayed it with electrical connector cleaner because it dries quickly. Then I sprayed the connections for the sensor for good measure. Finished that in 10 min.

I then removed the throttle body. It was slightly dirty but nothing horrible. It had black residue on the flap and barely any on the wall. I sprayed it with TB cleaner and wiped down any residue I could. Unfortunately I could not find a brush to use even though it wasn't really needed this time. Still I would recommend one to clean it. I also sprayed the connections for the TB with the electrical cleaner.

Since I had the TB removed, I took the opportunity to inspect my intake. I dismantled half of it to ensure the screens were still intact and straight which they were. The pipes of the intake were still clean with no signs of dirt so it seems the filter is doing its job well.

After reassembling the intake and TB, I finally got to the E-shaft sensor. I disconnected the lines and inspected them. They looked clean so I sprayed them with the electrical cleaner just to be sure. After allowing them to dry, I reconnected them.

I jumped in the car and pumped my break until the oil pres. Gauge did a sweep. I started her up, allowed her to warm up, and then took her for a casual 5-10 min drive. Tomorrow ill be at FIU so the fuel trims so be set by the time I get there.

A compression test is on my list of things to do. Unfortunately the start of the semester has left me w/o funds and so therefore I will have to wait until earn back money before I can go. My warranty is ticking down so it is a top priority (8 years is coming up soon). I don't want to miss out on a "new" motor.

Question: Does the warranty start on the date of manufacture or the date of original purchase?

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

original purchase

cavemancan

scolon

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks the for the clarification

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

called mazdausa today, got good news my warranty expires end of november this year not this april

chino0314

iTrader: (12)

Mines expired :'(

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

That sucks...but hey, you know what you need to do for supporting mods to the car to keep it strong, so i wouldnt be too concerned

cavemancan

Warrantee?














115,000 miles

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

list of items i have left to buy:
6 port motor
6 speed transmission
6 port pcm
factory gauge cluster/speedo
.....

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

Auto-X on March 25th at Homestead-Miami Speedway anyone? Im down for sure

Bamsterman

If I can get my RPF1s and Koni's/or coilovers in time, then YES!!

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

why not come either way? that way you'll be able to get a good idea of the before and after getting those things lol

scolon

iTrader: (2)

where's the link?

sweetness

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

Registration hasnt opened yet, but ill get the company site pasted in here a little later when im actually awake lol

Chris113113

My transmission just blew this weekend so depending on how that repair goes, I'll see about the autocross. $3500 farther away from upgrades. And after I get back I have to take it up to the dealership and get the engine tested for recalls.

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

$3,500? you crazy...get a good used one on here with low miles in working order for like $800 shipped. (ive seen them go for $500 +shipping with like 45k miles)

cavemancan

Speak to Swoop on the forum. He has one in VERY good condition and willing to sell very cheap. Send him a PM and tell him I sent you.

I was about to buy it but it's a long story since my current used tranny still has warrantee. Besides I may rebuild mine to make sure it does not have anymore issues.

Later!

P.S. He lives in Orlando...You can save shipping!

Chris113113

I just called up to the garage, and apparently the guy is a good friend of my dad's. And apparently my dad went up and paid for the transmission himself cash, sooo... That's good! I should be back up and running by the end of the week, and then hopefully I can go talk to Mazda about my engine.

scolon

iTrader: (2)

Saves money for compression test.....front endlink snaps

Bamsterman

I swear...I every time I come close to having "extra" money, SOMETHING ELSE COMES UP!!!! Ugh! Being an adult with bills sucks. Lol anywho, if by ANY chance someone knows someone interested, I'm selling a set of BMW 128i M Sport wheels. I know they wont fit an RX8, but thats why I'm saying if anyone knows someone. Lemme know! I need me RPF1s!!!

DungeonKeeper

all I know is that I dont know.

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

Also, who's down to go to the Grand Am (Grand Prix of Miami) at Homestead-Miami Speedway in April?

cavemancan

I talked to Swoop and he asked me if I was going and I told him I wanted to. So as of today the answer is yes.

scolon

iTrader: (2)

I want to....i'll have to see though.

New update on the car. It runs fine except sometimes when at idle it will fluctuate or just stall. I got a code for the ESS. So i took it out and cleaned it all off and then reset the fuel trims. Still occasionally has idling problems.