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Rock Chip.... Help

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Old 01-06-2006, 08:10 AM
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So, you're saying that Langka is the best fix huh?

I'll have to try it out then. I have a few chips in my 04.

Thanks Team.





Originally Posted by TeamRX8
its worth repeating;

the one, the only, the best ...
Old 01-06-2006, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mkztg
So, you're saying that Langka is the best fix huh?

I'll have to try it out then. I have a few chips in my 04.

Thanks Team.
Thanks for resurrecting this thread. I'd seen it before, but missed a couple of the hyperlinks. One of these days---I'll repair the numerous chips on my venerable TG-- 54,000 vicious Interstate miles.
Old 02-02-2006, 01:06 PM
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FWIW i think the touchup paint works very well...



Old 02-02-2006, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
its worth repeating;

the one, the only, the best ...

Anybody have experience with Langka and the Mazda touch up paint? How long to let it dry before trying to smooth it out? The Langka site says that the time varies for different paints.

Thanks
Old 02-03-2006, 10:30 AM
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I bought the Langka kit for my MX-3 a couple years ago. The Mazda Blaze Red paint was just about the softest paint EVER used on a car (not to mention it faded so badly unless you kept it waxed every couple weeks), and after years of driving the front end was riddled with paint chips.

Anyway, the Langka kit really works. I was concerned that it would take off the existing paint, but it really does only remove the touch-up paint, leaving it flush with the rim of the chip. I had too many chips on the hood to count and while you could still see the touchups up close, it looked so much better with the Langka than the ugly, sloppy "overpainting" that was caused by the brush. I only had to wait 2 hours at the most for the Mazda paint to dry enough to re-apply.

I can't find my old kit, so I think I'll be ordering a new one. I found two deep stone chips on my driver's side fender that looks horrible and I need to fix them ASAP.


Originally Posted by Hyperborea
Anybody have experience with Langka and the Mazda touch up paint? How long to let it dry before trying to smooth it out? The Langka site says that the time varies for different paints.

Thanks

Last edited by Olorin2; 02-03-2006 at 10:46 AM.
Old 03-11-2006, 10:10 PM
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I finally did buy the "Blob Eliminator" from Langka and I have to say, it works quite well. I need to pick up a small artists paint brush to apply the paint better. (the toothpick isn't working out for me for some reason)

I just got a small 2 oz bottle and so far I think this will last me a few years.
Old 03-11-2006, 11:08 PM
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Where did you get your touch up paint?
Old 03-29-2006, 09:45 PM
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I got the touch up paint from the dealership, you might be able to find it at Pepboys, just get your paint code and take a look at what they got.



Originally Posted by Raptor2k
Where did you get your touch up paint?
Old 06-09-2006, 12:33 AM
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I think that the prep work before the actual application of the color is what seems to be lacking. Any one know what mazda uses as a base coat? Grey, white, etc... also is a color sprayed on the base before the color (silver before a metallic). Trying to apply any color on a black surface like the yellow bumper is never going to work. Applying the yellow after a white, silver, or grey base coat might. The Metallic Blue (mine), and the Green must be a nightmare!
Old 06-11-2006, 10:56 PM
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i think the difficulty isn't just that the touch-up paint is hard to use, but that the process itself is time-consuming and kind of a pain in the ***- esp since it is difficult to get it to look right.

a good friend of mine once told me that the authorized body shop of his lexus dealer does "touch-up packages." in other words, for a pre-set price they will clean up ALL the minor nicks, scratches, and crap on your car in one shot. and, you get your car back in just a day or two.

have any of u guys heard of similar packages from other body shops?

since, i've joined the ranks of having rock chips, i think i'm going to look into having these repairs taken care of professionally and then spend the $125 on an rx-8 car bra for when i'm cruising the canyons with our club members and can do so without worrying.

on a side note, a friend of mine who used to work in the aircraft parts/ materials industry told me that they actually do make paints that are virtually scratch-resistant. but, even tho car companies know about these high-grade paints, they refuse to use them because (a) they cost too much and (b) they want to cultivate viable market for body repair. after all, if a car never broke down in any way, there's less $ to be made. <shrugs> such is the way of life i guess...

would appreciate if anyone w/ experience w/ touch-up packages from body shops in the Los Angeles area PM me and give me some feedback/ recommendations.

cheers!
Old 09-18-2006, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by valpac
true, rock chips happens.

but if you want to reduce the amount you get, dont follow too closely.

when Im on the highway, I am constantly looking for "clean air" and f' in trucks!

just my own habits, which are somewhat effective
I do the same thing.
Usually 8-12 feet between me & the ahole in front of me that doesn't even have flaps.
Unless I'm overtaking them that is.
Old 01-06-2007, 02:32 AM
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what was the code for the paint from mazda? thanks
Old 01-06-2007, 08:47 AM
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Hey rotormotor, off subject real quick. Do you ever go to any of the local meets for RX8 owners? I too live in San Diego, and I am going to be back home the 13th if everything goes well. I am in Iraq right now, but if you do go let me know. I am looking for other 8 owners in the area.
Old 02-11-2007, 10:43 PM
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Clear Bra

Hi,
I am a new member in here. I have the Invisible bra on my RX8. Works great!!!!! Sometimes it also good to pay liitle bit more for the installation and have it installed properly and from best quality film. Its really important.

I am an international student from Poland studying in St.Louis.
The company that installed the Bra for me in STL did really great job.

this is the link:

http://www.ultrashieldofstl.com/

Enjoy.
Old 02-11-2007, 11:05 PM
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Can I ask how much you paid for it?
Old 02-11-2007, 11:20 PM
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$500
Old 05-22-2007, 11:02 AM
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Couple quick questions about the bra. Do you have to remove it ever? Wash or wax? I can't see trying to wax right up against the seam....

Once installed properly, does it have the same gloss as a freshly waxed car would? It looks slightly more dull in most of the pics I've saw.

When rocks kick up and hit the bra, it doesn't scratch it or cut through it at all? I would figured over time (2-3 years of rocks) it would get a little tore up.

I'd basically be buying this to, yes prevent rock chips, but also to prevent love bugs from eating through my paint twice a year. The worst part is that my nearest dealer is over an hour away.

Last edited by firebirdude; 05-22-2007 at 11:09 AM.
Old 05-22-2007, 02:47 PM
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Ask Astral, he's had the clear film installed when he first purchased his 8.
Old 06-14-2007, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by firebirdude
Couple quick questions about the bra. Do you have to remove it ever? Wash or wax? I can't see trying to wax right up against the seam....
Yes, you should wax it and wash it. Wash it like the rest of the paint. You don't have to remove it. Depending on your wax, you typically want to be careful not to gunk up the wax in the seam. Zaino leaves no residue, so sealants like that are much more forgiving.

Once installed properly, does it have the same gloss as a freshly waxed car would? It looks slightly more dull in most of the pics I've saw.
Yes, it looks slightly more dull. If I had to do it again, I would go with VentureTape, which is the glossiest, has no orange peel and now has clearcoat (the one big reason against going with that before). Latest generation 3M ScotchGard is better than before though, less orange peel (pretty major orange peel on my previous-generation application).

When rocks kick up and hit the bra, it doesn't scratch it or cut through it at all? I would figured over time (2-3 years of rocks) it would get a little tore up.
Only really bad rocks, once in a blue moon, will penetrate thru the clear bra. Usually they just scuff up the clear bra. If you shine a bright light directly at my clear bra (2 NE winters), you can see the whole plastic area pitted.. but even in the sun and regular light, you can't really see it and underneath the paint is there.

I'd basically be buying this to, yes prevent rock chips, but also to prevent love bugs from eating through my paint twice a year. The worst part is that my nearest dealer is over an hour away.
Yes, that's another good reason to get it. However, you should apply a good coat of wax, which will help with the bugs (natural wax has better protection against acids in the bugs).
Old 06-16-2007, 12:02 PM
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I found a very comprehensive, detailed write-up that does not require the purchase of expensive products. Just time, patience, and elbow grease. I haven't tried it yet, but I have hundreds of chips on my front end from almost 70k miles of mostly highway driving. I will probably never finish, and it may be best for me to just get the front bumper painted, but for those who only have a few chips, and can keep up with the chips, here it is:
http://www.carcareonline.com/viewarticle.aspx?art=8
Old 06-28-2007, 08:48 AM
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Hopefully a reasonable thread to ask in.

I am a new 8 owner, I have been looking around for options, I was pretty excited about the 3M clearbra, unfortunately, I haven't been able to locate a dealer/installer within a few hundred miles of Chattanooga where I live. Are there any other good options?

3m's site doesn't list a dealer in Atlanta, which I have a hard time believing is accurate, anyone got a lead to an installer in the Atlanta area?
Old 06-28-2007, 09:45 AM
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VentureTape
Old 06-28-2007, 12:09 PM
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Tried using the Langka system a couple days ago. I don't know about this.... I used the pre-paint prep solution. Lightly used the factory colored paint. Allowed to dry for probably 6 hours. (I live in Florida, that should be more than enough time) Stretched the provided cloth across the provided card as shown in video and then applied Blob Eliminator. The second that Blob Eliminator touched the touch-up paint, it just melted away. I don't think I made even a single complete pass with the cloth and all the paint was gone. In and out of the chip. I don't see how their system is possible with this stuff....
Old 06-28-2007, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by firebirdude
Tried using the Langka system a couple days ago. I don't know about this.... I used the pre-paint prep solution. Lightly used the factory colored paint. Allowed to dry for probably 6 hours. (I live in Florida, that should be more than enough time) Stretched the provided cloth across the provided card as shown in video and then applied Blob Eliminator. The second that Blob Eliminator touched the touch-up paint, it just melted away. I don't think I made even a single complete pass with the cloth and all the paint was gone. In and out of the chip. I don't see how their system is possible with this stuff....
I had a similar experience. Try more drying time, give it 2 days just to be extra sure, and see if it behaves any differently. I haven't tried more drying time yet.
Old 06-28-2007, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by firebirdude
Tried using the Langka system a couple days ago. I don't know about this.... I used the pre-paint prep solution. Lightly used the factory colored paint. Allowed to dry for probably 6 hours. (I live in Florida, that should be more than enough time) Stretched the provided cloth across the provided card as shown in video and then applied Blob Eliminator. The second that Blob Eliminator touched the touch-up paint, it just melted away. I don't think I made even a single complete pass with the cloth and all the paint was gone. In and out of the chip. I don't see how their system is possible with this stuff....
FBdude - make sure that when you apply the touch up paint, you apply more than what is needed to fill the chip. You want a little blob so that when the blob eliminator (hence the name?!) hits the paint, it will blend into the rest of the paint without removing it totally.

The cool this is (well sorta), if you mess it up, you can start again with no repercussions other than lost time.

The langka site has a 5min video. You should download and watch that a couple of times first (if you haven't already done so).


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