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Yeah, I know that about intakes. Mine came with an AEM/Mazdaspeed intake. I've been told that it's a 'good' one, but I totally understand that it may make near as no difference.
Thanks.
The AEM intake is one of the good ones, assuming it is installed correctly. It probably does not give you any ponies, but it may help with cooling, LOL.
The AEM intake is one of the good ones, assuming it is installed correctly. It probably does not give you any ponies, but it may help with cooling, LOL.
That was my hope! With the battery in the trunk, the AEM intake and the hood vents, I would have thought I'd be in good shape!
That was my hope! With the battery in the trunk, the AEM intake and the hood vents, I would have thought I'd be in good shape!
Had a call from one of the race teams in our Rx8 race series yesterday . He is doing exactly this and told me they did some trials recently to test if the changes made any difference. The tests were done on a cool day but he found a 4 degree C lower temp by fitting the AEM and removing the stock plastic setup and another 4 degrees by fitting the vented hood . The two combined made 10 degrees C difference . Not yet tested on a hot day though.
I would love to see how they vented the hood. The singular kit looks meh and a little too far back for my liking, but I don't wanna just test some holes in my hood.... That being said I do think it needs it. I might hit the junkyard tomorrow and start hackinf
That was my hope! With the battery in the trunk, the AEM intake and the hood vents, I would have thought I'd be in good shape!
Which vents we're you going to do? There was one guy on here who used a Jeep set that turned out very well .I really think just a long narrow strip up front would do it... That being said I think it will also look like ****
Which vents we're you going to do? There was one guy on here who used a Jeep set that turned out very well .I really think just a long narrow strip up front would do it... That being said I think it will also look like ****
I have the Singular vents on my hood. I should have done some testing to make sure I was putting them in the right place. Instead I trusted their claim that they did that testing. I still have no evidence either way, and my temps are still high.
Also, 04sunlight, I got a VM with Windows7 running. You were totally right - that got my Cobb to connect. Let me know how I can send you my map. I’d really like to try a lower fan temp next weekend. At least that would probably help while idling and when cooling off after a session. Thanks!
Last edited by Mr. Pockets; 09-21-2018 at 06:40 AM.
Use the access port software to move it to you computer then send me that file. If you need more info shoot me a pm, I am working from home today so i have a little more time than normal
Use the access port software to move it to you computer then send me that file. If you need more info shoot me a pm, I am working from home today so i have a little more time than normal
Right, but I need you to PM me an email address or something. It doesn't look like I can attach a file to a PM.
Use the access port software to move it to you computer then send me that file. If you need more info shoot me a pm, I am working from home today so i have a little more time than normal
What do you want them to turn on at? I'll send this back tonight after I get home from work
Thank you so very much! If you PM me I can send you an email address.
At what temp do you have yours turn on? I think I've heard 185F being used? I don't expect it to help on track, but it should help while idling, and when I get back to the paddock after a session.
Are you guys that run the Cobb aware that the high speed fan turns off at 6mph regardless of temperature ? You need to change the VSS parameter in order to change that . Well worthwhile setting it to around 60mph IMO.
Are you guys that run the Cobb aware that the high speed fan turns off at 6mph regardless of temperature ? You need to change the VSS parameter in order to change that . Well worthwhile setting it to around 60mph IMO.
Was not aware of this, good to know. After updating my Rad and taping up around it to force air (really just the bottom between the undertray and rad) I had 0 issues this weekend. It wasn't overly hot but ***** out 30min sessions and the gauge didn't even move. I didn't bother watching my cobb because i don't have a decent mount for it. I was on summit main if it means anything to you all
The coolant system pressure also matters. A few psig pressure loss can drastically cut the boiling point of the glycol mixture. We run on the high end of coolant pressure in my car experience (~ +13 psig IIRC). Any leaks from cracked reservoir, gasket, and hoses will result in lower boiling points.
I've posted this elsewhere on the RX8club.com but coolant system health (clean coolant, clean heat transfer surfaces, at system pressure) is so very important for our rotary engines. Here's a chart of boiling point vs pressure. The rule of thumb is:
"For every pound of pressure exerted on the coolant in the system, the static boiling point of the coolant is raised by approximately 3 °F
".
Cool - I looked up the ingredients in water wetter (shown below). Interesting that Redline Water Wetter uses glycol ethers (to elevate the boiling point) which are water soluble and wash off race track pavements easily. The molybdate is in there to prevent galvanic corrosion (between dissimilar metals) and the triazole is a known corrosion inhibitor.
It was fine, but ambient temperatures were low. Saturday was in the 40s-50s all day, Sunday got up into the mid- to high-70s. I think the highest I saw was around 205degF.
I still wonder if I have air somewhere, and if anybody has advice for making sure it's bled out.
My coolant temps were 235-240 according to my Ultrascan at Laguna Seca in less than 70F temps. I don't know if that's a safe temp or not, but it made me nervous, I'd like to be under 220. I cranked the heater, which helps, but I don't really enjoy driving with it on. My cooling system is stock, but I just remembered that there is some kind of underdrive pulley on the car that the po put on, I've barely paid attention to it and don't know if it drives the pump, I'll look tomorrow. I do run Water Wetter with distilled water.
My undertray is there, but has about one third missing because the po had the car set up too low for street use and it was always scraping something. I'm going to try to patch it up, but if I can't save it and need to buy a new one, I think I'll spend the money on a bigger radiator instead. Costs more than twice as much, $100 vs $250, but it seems a bigger radiator would do more than an undertray.
Another thing I thought of that would at least look "racecar" would be a couple of holes next to the Mazda emblem on the passenger side of the bumper. It would be necessary to also cut holes in the same piece of metal that the air cleaner assembly intake passes through, so a couple of those flexible ducts that people use for their brakes could run through and be pointed at the radiator. Aircraft Spruce sells some nice looking aluminum flanges that would give the bumper holes a finished look. I've seen that on Miatas and Z cars, but I've never looked into how much it helps. Might work.
I thought of removing the grill also. It doesn't look like it would block much air, but according to stuff I've read over the years things like screens and grills block quite a bit of air. I don't think debris would be an issue, after all, how often does something fly up and hit the front of your car? I don't have screens on my headlights and I've never had one broken by debris. Anyone try removing the grill? Did it help with cooling? How about removing the a/c condenser?
Greasyman . Weather you fit a new radiator or not ...you must still fix the undertray ! Good cooling is all about directing the air to the face of the radiator and not letting it escape . The stock setup has lots of plastic ducting , undertray and foam around the sides of the rad to achieve that end .It's especially important on a rotary because there is extra heat to remove plus the rx8 has the rad at 45 degrees not upright . If any part of the ducting system is missing .... you are pissing into the wind with those other suggestions you mentioned. Removing the AC condensor will definitely help though.
^^ this. A properly functioning stock cooling system would never hit 230F in 70F ambient. 100F ambient, maybe, depends on circuit configuration and humidity.
Surely you can find a junkyard undertray.
09-20-2018, 07:29 AM
