I wouldn't worry about the endlinks unless you are driving hard on r-compounds. I also think it may have to do with the fact that I have a stock rear sway (per B stock rules), so there is likely more force on the front endlinks (as compared to both stock bars or even both RB bars) during cornering.

The RB bar is something like 208% stiffer than stock. Its great to be able to get the extra 'spring rate' and it definitely makes the car faster in slaloms. I wouldn't be surprised to see someone be successful at the nat'l level with it, if it suits their driving style. But overall, I'd have to say no RB sway for B stock.

 

We're classified a little different here in ontario, what is B stock classified as? I am in SGT3 for solo1 and running a more solo 2 suited tire falken azenis but other than solo, I do lapping days too, wondering if the stock endlink will hold up.

 

From SCCA: --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stock– This category includes mass-produced, common vehicles that may be “daily drivers,” cars used for normal, everyday driving. Stock Category cars compete in their “factory” configuration with a minimal number of allowances (these are not requirements) such as:

- Removal of spare tire and tools
- Front anti-roll bar(s)
- Suspension / wheel alignment using factory-approved adjustments
- High-performance DOT-approved tires (including R-compounds)
- Shock absorbers or struts (2 external adjustments maximum)
- Competition-type seat belts (no shoulder belts in open cars)
- Brake linings (pads / shoes)
- Air filter element (the “throw-away” part)
- “Cat”-back exhaust systems
- Wheels – standard diameter, width and offset (within ¼”)
- Roll bar / cage
- Gauges, indicator lights, etc.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For all the SCCA Solo rules and Classification sheets, see: http://www.scca.com/Solo/Index.asp?I...0&x=050|070&~=

 

Are you talking about road course or autoslalom? Most of this discussion above centers around what the ASN Canada FIA (Or whatever its called) calls Autoslalom.

It would still be BS up there in Canada for the autoslalom/auto-x.

Have you seen: http://www.autoslalom.ca ? There's an even in Aug I'll be in Toronto for.

--kC

 

Just get the RB endlinks if you don't want to break stuff. They're very easy to install with a decent drill.

 

The problem with RB endlinks is it's a one way street. Once you drill your control arms there's no going back. Every sway bar you put on from then on needs to be drilled for them. Ask me how I know.

 

I have the RB bar with Agency Power end-links. This setup solves the problem of drilling out the hole on the suspension and you can adjust the end-link. The Agency Power endlinks are very noisy on the autocross course, as in every time I hit the brakes a loud clink is heard. I am looking into other end-link options, as well as maybe the Mazdaspeed bar which is apox. (don't quote me) 120% stiffer than stock while the RB bar is apox. 200% stiffer.

 

Got an extra zero there... The MazdaSpeed bar is at best about 18% stiffer, almost no difference over stock.

 

haha, nah, not running slaloms pure road course, tried running between pylons once but like road courses a lot better so I join solo sprints which runs on a few road courses around southern ontario (shannonville, mosport and toronto motorsports park).

 

I should have explained the stock bar would be 100%, Mazdaspeed 120% (or 20% over stock), RB is 200% or 100% stiffer than stock. All are apox.

 

So basically no aftermarket sway bars do anything for the car to help control body roll but still keep it neutral WITHOUT having to drill or destroy stock end links?

What's the bet for the first upgrade then MS springs/shocks?

 

What class do you want to run in? Sounds like you're interested in STU. Maybe go with the Mazdaspeed all around and see if you like it. I'll have more info on the Racing Beat swaybars in a couple of weeks....

 

I autocrossed on the RB bar for about 6 months with zero end link issues. Am currently abusing them with a drilled OEM bar, even with some interference issues with the shock body under heavy braking I have yet to break one. Would over-torquing the nut on the endlink possibly contribute to premature failure?

 

My first set of OEM endlinks lasted about 6 months after the RB bar went on. That was probably ~ 10-12 events + an Evo school.

 

Update:

Since I wrote this, I put together a cheap single exhaust consisting of a magnaflow muffler, cut off stock aftercat pipe, a cheap turndown, and another cheap piece of pipe. With this modification and a focus on doing better with my driving, the car was much looser and I finished about 6 tenths off the national level runners in terms of pax.

It was also a cooler day, which reduced traction as well. I ended up with the fronts on full stiff and a quarter turn out of stiff on the back. Rear pressures higher than the fronts. 40-42.

Its still a work in progress. Thanks for all your ideas. Focusing on my driving was very helpful. No more mods planned until after nationals though I almost bought a pair of konis for the front, and I am contemplating tire sizes as I might make the shift over to Hoosier.

I heard that the Peru-winning Solstice was wearing 285's on basically the same size rim, what do you all think about that?

 

I just for some reason broke my driver's side rear endlink. Think it was probably from driving around downtown and it's many potholes

 

Anybody out there break stock end links with the Whiteline sways?

-Kabong

 

If you get a good suspension system, you can compensate for that by softing the front for mor maneverability.