Okay here's mine I guess

2004 Base Sport
2,845 lbs with 1/4 tank

Some motor I found out of some drift kid's car, leaks oil, decent compression
Sakebomb Marine Coil kit
Stock Tune
Stock Intake with stock air filter, some heat shielding.
Modified Alibaba header
TurboXS catted midpipe.
3" From collector to exit, Racing Beat exhaust. All V-band.
Ron Davis Radiator
BHR Motor Mounts
SuperPro diff bushings
Kaaz 1.5 diff

255 Bridgestones on 17x9 RPF1
AST 5200s from 100 years ago rebuilt by ProParts
560f
450r
Diftech front upper mounts, ProParts NC rear mounts.
Old Tri-Point bar, .250 wall
Stock Sport rear bar, looking at a Eibach NC 16mm soon.
Mazda Motorsports offset delrin front upper control arm bushings
Rear bushings SuperPro
Front lower is stock.
-3.5 f, 0 toe
-3 r, 3/16 toe in

 

By the powers of grayskull, it some how turns on.

 

Finally won my first Tour in the car (even if it's a Match tour...)


Looks like I have some things to work on - clutch slave seems to be taking a dump, and the front main seal is just gushing oil -_-

 

Congrats on the win and eventually getting a new motor too!

 

Motor has good compression I just need to do the seal, which is annoying but has to be done.

 

Gratso dude! I have heard of a few people brave enough to do the seal with the motor in the car. Will. You be one of those brave men?

 

I have the SST and know enough to be dangerous, so either i'll have a non-leaky motor by the end of the month, or a brand new one

 

"Some friends and a few beers." lol

Don't loosen that bolt too much without the clutch pushed in, otherwise you'll lose the whole shim stack. :O

 

I managed to find myself in a Mazda payout position at the Toledo Pro, and first time ever at a National event where I wasn't DFL! 😂

 

Hopefully it’s that simple. Not so unusual if it isn’t, but can’t blame you for trying to install a replacement first.

 

You'll hear the shim drop too if it goes wrong, so worse case you know before you even try to crank it over.

Subscribing for outcome and tips/tricks.

 

No, I’m saying the front seal for an NA engine generally doesn’t just go bad, that there is usually something else going on that manifests itself that way ... but not always. So maybe it will work and won’t be leaking again soon.

Well maybe it’s more common than I thought, never saw this attachment before, but usually I’m thinking either high mileage engine or e-shaft is moving around too much:

https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...rx-8-se-fe-pdf


.

 

Oh, I see.

Yeah, it's stupid. The increased oil pressure and opened oil channel mods are very helpful. I guess there's a block off somewhere that stays closed until the engine is warm and then opens up and allows oil to flow.

 

I know a few people who have had to do this, seems to be a somewhat common issue.

 

As far as I know the only oil restrictions are the thermal pellet in the e shaft and the oil cooler thermostats.

 

Yup. Thermal pellet.

 

Have no idea what you’re reference is to in that reply?

 

First autocross since replacing the front main seal, slave cylinder, and trans fluid, and adjusting the clutch.

All seems to be well, no more puking oil and I can shift at redline again.

 

1.) Did you almost catch that guy in front of you? Having someone in the finish chute when you come through is... Scary.

2.) Not puking oil is good. What's you go pro mounted to inside of the car?

 

Happens at Marquee events frequently.

GoPro is mounted to a 2 post camera mount that I modified to fit into the stock seat triangle trim, i'll take a picture of it when I get home.

 

Outcome seems to be good. The greatest difficulty was getting the pulley bolt off. It was bending my 1/2 breaker/cheater pipe like a noodle, so I ordered a 1" drive breaker and 19mm socket. Took a slight nudge with that to break it loose.

I measured the pulley boss depth before removing the pulley, held the key in with my finger when removing the pulley boss. Everything stayed in place. Removed the old seal with a flathead, used the old seal to tap in the new one - which was not that straight forward, by big sway bar got in the way of hammer taps. It might be a little too deep now but it seems to be sealing. Put rtv on the pulley bolt and torqued to spec.

You will need to reset the NVRAM after this as apparently any small change in that Eshaft position plate is enough for the computer to throw wild misfire codes.

 

NVRAM? I haven't heard of this before!

Where does the special tool go, btw?

 

All you need to know about NVRAM and KAM:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...memory-169443/

 

Ah! I didn't know it by that name. 40 pumps

 

The tool mentioned in the TSB just replaces the starter and locks the flywheel down. The other tool is a brake pedal depressor. That's it.