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SCCA Street Modified RX-8

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SCCA Street Modified RX-8

Old 12-10-2018, 08:28 PM
  #51  
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Haven't felt like posting anything in a while. But I wrapped up the fuel system, so figured I'd put up some pictures.

Flow-through fuel rail with 6AN fittings on each end.



Feed line is 6AN through a 10 micron filter mounted in the trans tunnel, and 6AN all the way back to the pump.





Simple plug to defeat the pressure relief valve in the S2 pump assembly.



Bulkhead fitting with a 3/8 barb inside the pump assembly and 6AN on the outlet. The barb connects right to the barb fitting on the pressure side of the pump. The stock siphon mechanism is preserved.


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Old 01-02-2019, 08:35 AM
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I made some progress over the holidays. Because I can't seem to be bothered to take pictures of incremental progress, some of this isn't really well documented.

Engine is back in for the (hopefully) last time before I turn the key for the first time. I made a battery mount, finished all the battery wiring, and powered up the car. Everything works, the fuel pump primes and builds pressure, no leaks that I can see or smell. I finished up the oil plumbing, though I may shorten one hose. Sensors are in place for fuel pressure, oil pressure and oil temp to connect to the (eventual) aftermarket EFI. The DBW throttle even works without the engine running, which may be of use if I go with a Megasquirt ... could use the stock ECU to do the throttle and the Megasquirt for everything else. Not sure.

Mostly I spent a bunch of time cutting and fitting intercooler pipes until I was happy. I wanted to minimize the number of silicone couplers in the intake tract so I had a buddy TIG weld it all together for me.



The piping is a lot easier to manage without all the couplers everywhere.





I got the clutch fitted, reinstalled the transmission and finally got to install the driveshaft that arrived months ago. Everything fit together as expected. I bled the clutch and tested its travel... it seems to fully release but it's definitely close to the floor. I may need to modify the factory clutch pedal, or at least just adjust the plunger to get a little more release, but I won't know until I can start it and test the driveline with the engine running. It's already been reinforced as I guess it's pretty common for them to break.



I didn't like the way the Fab9 kit had the oil drain at the block set up. They call for you to drill and tap the block in an area between two internal strengthening ribs. The problem with this is the block casting is angled there, so it's very hard to thread in the (3/8 NPT) fitting they want you to use. And the hose to the turbo is so short it's a pain to install. And everyone seems to have issues with it leaking. I saw this stripping out pretty quickly, so I turned an AN fitting to TIG weld into the block, now installing and removing the turbo oil drain is easy.





Not much to do before I can turn the key. I managed to booger up the one O-ring I had for the (Ranger) dipstick tube at the (custom) oil pan, and nothing I have in my stock will work. I need to make a plug for the stock dipstick tube (in the valve cover) since I'm not using that with this pan. I need to figure out the hot side radiator hose connection, now that the intercooler piping is done I can work that out, plus one more hose for the overflow and another one for the heater core return. Oh, and there's no exhaust, just a dump pipe off of the turbo. So, that's gonna be loud.
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:49 PM
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Hey John, looking really good. On our XP RX-7, we just added a 17" two stage Burns Muffler and dumped it under the car straight down and have almost no problems with sound.

Is that the tranny you bought from us at Nats?

Mark

Last edited by Hi Flying 8; 01-11-2019 at 11:43 AM.
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Hi Flying 8 View Post
Hey John, looking really good. On our XP RX-7, we just added a 17' two stage Burns Muffler and dumped it under the car straight down and have almost no problems with sound.

Is that the tranny you bought from us at Nats?

Mark
Mark,

It most certainly is! Thanks again.

Your XP car has an REW, right? With the four cylinder I'm hoping it will be a little easier to manage sound and EGTs, so I bought a 3" in/out, 6.25" diameter round Borla that is about 17" long and I'm hoping it will be enough. I only have everything tacked into place right now but the muffler lives right next to the gearbox and dumps under the tailshaft area.
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:32 AM
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Not much interest in this thread here, but here's a small update. I have a bunch of small stuff now that needs to get wrapped up. And a couple big things - engine management (I'm thinking Haltech at this point), tuning and aero. And the inevitable long arduous debugging period that will probably consume me for the rest of the year. But it's complete enough that I put it on the scales to see where things stand.

2526lbs is not bad and 25lbs lighter than I had projected when I started this whole mess. Interior is complete less the driver's seat, which is 8lbs (Sparco QRT-R). There's no muffler or piping other than the downpipe off of the turbo, but if the exhaust is more than 10lbs I'm doing something very wrong. It's probably two gallons down on fuel from where I'd normally run it, so 12lbs.

I'm estimating now that I'll probably need 20lbs of ballast, which is not a bad thing. It's annoyingly front-heavy, but that was expected as a lot of the weight came off the rear (diff, power plant frame, exhaust, trunk junk, rear seats) and the middle (gearbox, PPF) and the front weight that was added (intercooler) is way out in the nose. Crossweights are obviously way off, it's sitting on wood blocks for springs and the right rear tire is flat. At some point I'd like to convert to the smaller NC brakes and put together a setup with lighter calipers and rotors but it's not in the cards for this year. Engine management and aero are going to eat up the last of the budget for this year.

Just waiting on my factory computer to get back from having the immobilizer removed and I can fire it up... or try at least.





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Old 01-11-2019, 11:47 AM
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Yea we're REW. The build is looking really solid and I'm really interested in seeing it-probably in Lincoln.

Hey, I haven't seen your brother for a while. Did he move out of Co.?
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Old 01-11-2019, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Hi Flying 8 View Post
Yea we're REW. The build is looking really solid and I'm really interested in seeing it-probably in Lincoln.

Hey, I haven't seen your brother for a while. Did he move out of Co.?
Nope he's still in the Springs... he just sold the Elise a couple years ago because he wasn't autocrossing anymore and is looking to retire soon. He spends most of his free time playing hockey and traveling. He's doing well.
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Old 01-20-2019, 12:34 PM
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Deep annoyance overtook me when I got my ECU back ... and the immobilizer was still active. Long story short, there was a new release of the tuning software that the shop uses and the update flipped the polarity of the immobilizer. So basically the guy got my ECU, coded it for an active immobilizer, and sent it back. He is sending me one of his test ECUs that he verified works, so I should be able to try to start it soon. Still... annoying.

Still lots to get done anyway. I got started on making the rear upper shock mounts. I got this idea from Tamra and Drew, and used the same spherical bearings they did. This eliminates the factory rubber donut mounts for the rear shock shafts. I shortened the housings by a couple inches as well to get the desired bump / droop numbers relative to static ride height.

Factory rear shock hat:



Top cut off:



New top plate mocked up, with the hole for the bearing cup cut out:





Not my prettiest welding, but whatever.



I turned some simple pieces to adapt the 0.550" Penske shafts to the spherical bearing. I know people say the Grizzly mini-lathes are useless but if I can whip stuff like this up in an hour, it's totally worth having.



Next job I've been putting off is re-making the lower front crossmember. This piece braces the back of the subframe to the unibody and spans the width of the unibody rails. The stock one ran into the 2.5L engine's oil pan. I cut the center out of it and replaced it with a section of 3/4" x 1.5" x 0.063" rectangular steel tubing, then braced it with another couple of pieces of tubing. It's way stiffer than the stock piece and only weighs a half a pound more.









Needs a prime and a coat of paint and it'll be good to go back on the car.
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Old 01-26-2019, 06:20 AM
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The RX-8 lives, for the first time in at least two and a half years.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNg43DdwjYA
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:57 AM
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Awesome work John! Hope I'll get to see it at an event this year
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:08 PM
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Alive, with Haltech



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Old 02-19-2019, 06:34 PM
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It would probably have more power if you run all four coils! JK
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Old 02-19-2019, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Hi Flying 8 View Post
It would probably have more power if you run all four coils! JK
Probably!

The coils are disconnected during the ECU configuration process.
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Old 03-02-2019, 04:12 PM
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Got some work done today. I made a couple bosses to mount my splitter support rods to the splitter.





I took an idea from Robert Thorne's SSM car to use gas struts to support the splitter, so it can deflect upwards when it hits the ground. The bosses above mate to a pair of clevises which screw to the struts.



I made a tab out of some box section steel and welded it to the crash bar. The cylinders are extended using chromoly rods that I tapped and threaded to a rod end.



With the cylinders extended the splitter is level with the ground and easily supports my weight.



Each side can compress individually without binding up. The rear of the splitter is mounted to the subframe in a way that it can pivot.



I also finally got around to making misalignment spacers for the rear sway bar end links.



I did a rough cut-out of the air dam but haven't started riveting it to the splitter. I ended up using some conveyor belt material I got from McMaster. It's a little more rigid than I hoped it would be, but it's also super cold out today so maybe it'll get a little more pliable.



I still have some engine bay clean-up to do and the final wrapping of the harness, but it really runs sweet with the Haltech, after just a bit of closed-loop O2 learning. The cooling system also bled itself while I sat here and let it idle. Fans kicked on as expected. Oil pressure and temperature are good and no odd noises yet . I need to make a clutch stop so I don't over-travel the twin-disc clutch, so the only driving I've done is in and out of the driveway. But by the end of tomorrow it'll be ready to go for a shakedown drive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSzxMieiBuk
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Old 03-02-2019, 08:05 PM
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This is an awesome build. Hopefully I'll be able to make it to one of the Pro's or Championship Tours to see it in action. The power to weight along with that massive contact patch should certainly make it a competitor in SM once you get it sorted out.
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Old 03-04-2019, 05:47 PM
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I'm curious if the coolant expansion tank is working like it should with this engine. With the Renesis, the full and low lines of the expansion tank are above the highest point anywhere else in the cooling system. This ensures that there is no air in the system. With your engine, you have a coolant line that seems to be over the top of the expansion tank - so I think that line is likely full of air. You might have to relocate the expansion tank to a higher point unless there's something I'm missing.

Awesome build though! I've been following along here and on the sandbox. I'm building an REW-swapped RX-8 for a similar purpose (mostly TT/time attack, but some local SM), and I'm taking some inspiration from what you're doing.
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Old 03-04-2019, 07:06 PM
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The coolant expansion tank, as well as the rest of the cooling system (except a few custom pieces) are from the NC Miata. The cooling system of the NC is much different than the system from the Renesis, and so far it seems to work great.
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by John V View Post
Got some work done today. I made a couple bosses to mount my splitter support rods to the splitter.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hNZ4LaWdoeSzESw7c9JPCyFUYCcXgukSj2lBXHpBovrBzIbca3 dJMKVtwWIfDI5_R_7q2MF5KGPfrWiBLJqzUzv8bynP-TlRAdFQe6ytLdqwDrb7tFDLTRZc4Ru8WXkSvVuRUfUKsi31u4n HZ1IWDCjLW2xnh-bB1Gheexj0y_cwlQQ7xe_jF8NSx2D9IeV-N3I6t-txpWHOARv9q6UIq6X3sjQFhSE-1cn81XBxronzKouuMKh2XixbzRLqx1C0Ubd1eGu2NHG4ACel70 raxDKlmdybZl4ETWybINQarlsAGVxMBAOCF7m7xvAu_4BRTyAQ jQPRLg9PytE1NPhRs4htf7ukjVF27E6WjcyKp-tB-AliBJuxnCgKom3K-nbJ6hsy8I4c7eUG72iFdKvjuOa25qSevsa-uKv5F-YAxU4fuEmEGrIM5R54wZHYTgDm-UyGmOPnWh7z5lhEDiuNMp2wqADVsZLLb60wNwWUYSc093W1MA5 DlF9bHiyapZGwdf9dDHK-ffkYp-jvV1cHICDU9Ni4Ju_3S5Ijdjrfc3-u9wEiYwx4Mbtya84HiyQeJgvU_46Ixxvetr8O-reygxtaxrl9y6pGXGuF2iydhoI7c-RnG_5prB83Nch9MCqHVpQnybBg1LbX6CDCUtw1VBBNBXJSvW-P7_Hkh-YU5zBfvPrMs8QYOuhxzy_9oUoJYIi1mODQSdc1MRq0mHQJqWuS =w1036-h777-no

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FeTajuFRRj5HUuD-XTTG71vcjJSMyVKXw361eUO7cBffNkUQqieofTCzoG5qYydY6q uNuBAeRrPakbeMW1polnbvCYdDPcR5OSboBBFPddxuqQY1fGJz zEQfpCcDLbBKfeK-AmC_NMRKL2hBrBRE0fycXp6RUkcF9-gcr1FI0GiocQsPpTpfBIVDTI8YA7r3xhym0vCZnE88sAX_B-hCxaNyVA49mSomO_AHn0wJFW4g9VSf8NzOXnr9-vp9e5DmpI0H1fRaHjQreJzssqsLBCfu5X-xKqVBFG1AjGzPzJmLdDqeUr7G2fMcy1coJXZ-4_-aWf_EeYCxUzRR7UXW58HJjgG5seIc6C54-f2GLHcPiLScSoGf1kiusyNoqeV8jgErSroAluulJUySOvLEjSW iXRbZbplzhDhcwQcXaXuiuAeKBUwiGACRGvjLhRFzmzEc9WEwj UfkVPdZTypppZEqWKqZU6Lqs-CXg0y9f4JdFqd6nabigpM4yg_fg5jbuo0ZHre-orL4_aE6xH2enprxL5oz0gnFghC9yHbDYWyhi3qr53Qz1kB1mt Pm-qUw1bXSGRnBaqwTwUTwFatrr5775o3PaLB5NjjNXhYpQnRDA0n-_D9CC67KjngtOmc2-lX3-tPZdk6grULreFjJalbkpHOgf5pYIlWyM3OZtwKleyYQNQYgAue NiDZb0X3QIYz19V40rTIhLfTTP81vil7u=w1036-h777-no

I took an idea from Robert Thorne's SSM car to use gas struts to support the splitter, so it can deflect upwards when it hits the ground. The bosses above mate to a pair of clevises which screw to the struts.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tAg2CXcwu3ySgkgy8upTAqsU9mNJ3FMKQUhndFVtCBvAFlT08w R6zKiH2r5oE_XzVvhLkOR18_SVS0KVxzi5qMrfWeaYkAPz4S3-On4QOV0Wwke9GdzO6aloCudo2CT8CK1QIwZWQOM8asAGA3doiP oYjZEtrMShXV4V-Gi5bpume3efyepNSoT6WfzT3kU3vDLqAFHK-Vozi1-1c2dra4H7ADOhojJCVxh5D71_gJSqVxp7KKMzA1kDMXP9gRoaR TSX71KCbfOyhrbo-XKgjwAqzfb5RVpTq3uD5T5x_qyDh2NIpz0GT1p5fszLIF4kajE zeglgUUCDGDjByuLTH2QsxMqJvwkmdroTQulFspdl_-blMFznLKJZcfkfvtsWqLvkMhbgpVSW0KbcpAq6elXxPT3AZQ_2 QtWGv5962QEbwnHoLMraWhWai03_myzKq2bdLxid-0kCSK5xOkC-I1Fn5RBKH03jJ9dvRuNy_m1QM-D_J19cCGGr-3mseKYYlBgYFOwxl3nVjksMwEHFDYu3cs5_W5HXy3Z_PTabr29 bAR053pyjkDs1Xwb7BW5iMRfW0kqutO4gs0ZOjO60zLU_l2V4A VnTqwPHGudGXEn7ZTr6Z7MmZTtQ7kuM8inuy5mAMLuSA7G8g-ettPcVo2lASRcks9ptMCX3fe8FCrvr_Oq5CfWei435q-OVjCjJaxEMcvKqBz6hn_YVA0C0Xegu=w1036-h777-no

I made a tab out of some box section steel and welded it to the crash bar. The cylinders are extended using chromoly rods that I tapped and threaded to a rod end.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/au6HvRGNm3rLmMxz5Ez-H2J8HjAG7uZh88N5YMICFCiW_fs59AU8bbpeASUtQPHVR31k59 OBddEQ0XgXMLQFtKlZTzxtskY8mUZV5vVWNiVtzPmPvQ7Qvsvy ljJObTHT4hUPRQV6m9bH67yMcdoIgpbVM-HeLj55QTM3RLCfnbFSwq-QtyTO8TVA62sP_IQPU9-zpPaMSRREDDsZfNwdsMMmyaQ-wHW53B_1CV-XxjuBjxs9QcIkrER5neVo4axDNQDlVMI0xWpWahELrXzLEG2UN GuspaszCLusPFyK4RFV67UhbuRHsG3N_hZoqXI8JtnT-50aZIZwNJFtcv5uyZ8fKt5G4WxYyhkWtuuyqyExcI2Fcy9q2lx rs4PncCAJhokfZEb8jRaeSAxKz9eJBe6ig9-ZSNh0GybU810gObUyAv2ADb1J4iMVTSj2XM56xBv_FjUiKTJPb xnI2uh9LBHvC3E9pagALciocGEkSntMDJ3BAVBsTEsWyuRrRu2 DaoApFlM-kHdcehUlCjfR0n1ThIEzcW20PIoo_zVJ1nfljkdhfpWaMF9ENR OKAW31zLULsXpTiK39KRvXoEnccvRN49EpqldT00T_tFYxBMjW vHBED7YeMX-L-NURMgq2hMzfTm6OZYyYM4sMoDLBiXbfJEQDlCNS68hETICf_yx N7Qk1JhgwyX8ePU5dYqK7-n_MaLhfp7Y_7eNkan-Rjtw1=w1036-h777-no

With the cylinders extended the splitter is level with the ground and easily supports my weight.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SEzWMg7o5Ox_eYRmgM3vC72iO0IaL4meEosiVp8rsNF0Eu3vY4 R4ZAqH-LqEaK6qFIwyhmNPBch_54jTImjjSGc7f_eexp7uI3lGxI2ZFbQ cjNpNQ5RqxzgmUXmLvJfXHs8Y7fk3T3OlZ0HYAZnuIVAZKXjUw A9uHccd5DquP-sxEnNy9Y9FseYRqaC7W8EyclU_q66DGfEq2r34dp9xz3wtAAGB QpmT7q8pncTH86ezoHLPMo0zfQitVqLSU9rw42N-3uqhnSHTjPUhCKN4FDWB0oZZ9SHlOpDnn6OsZHcNROhX_-LRtC4fXN8NrgzmvJ_d7SvNz5zCIhVNdpoZM2npALW2SvgatxLk e0D_gGYrAzIJ3Vy0KtUBhtjy30kuwz-JaWS7p5-zPqd3zxXWbDLuHNUGwkxdg2NEipbmIAJFXZ-hogIpBYOaAu68a9qbtJrXCcFAFIzo6BJ3KZSz4dyLLsGYEJBEb o8KApcbqGiRDk3mCo6vpiutDTXDdj4xOTXHhU2Nm0Lo52inC-QAR7b5n9qz49PtjWEq3Ky0B-lGpnFtiZXG4r-sAqdVio9QIGfI8AnoNifLUvIoJqi-_uSEm_35o-25_6SZY_4XVGcOURjQ6WH5f6VzfQic743nWYaJvEPwSolLV75O htRayHTpYt-LMwGZar39BCIHB_TE4QVm3kRrZfRCv5Nv2mcfK4kEeAWPsmPeO E1lLkwUeuMp=w583-h777-no

Each side can compress individually without binding up. The rear of the splitter is mounted to the subframe in a way that it can pivot.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4cRO4TXyX0jYMh7L2hhf5vMi4kK5J12K55Cp08N9_bfKFSzEze KNNQu_hRyf_NqPAfUZ2vw59R02TgfIDZpMmRcZK9paBJTSF0Mn ZDnfBIfJD4w5c2dPaznjjfGnQZhyKgPXEG1_z2ai1KtwNL4-cXEygIUy7eoBk9kaupslNgv5IbpTTBGSfUQ5QZ02MrOe-PYgKCCtWxgJTaQIEMzlQO6DJUKgg4_1LBUHUaD1S8DLgEdC_ds ViF4YwtlBmP7GIyMNMkeXFUTGYOv6cEg3TfC4PI7nWfkis2J6q plxGDbsBN82NFSEzC1VHT36OmH3FaLf3v8lnSvfDOklsRmCFaI zh0GRscSTytHxC-JUB0ZBjp49MdW_24C8ZOMCvQs5y7LCaRtBvqYqO2O2aOtnR65F zeRvlzaot9fyEr0rpdjXRcg2pCRbsuQnVnZnJxymcZSAzpaXLD XYYxs8yYPX-_8wBStFgtE0cklpWSN-wxXFfvDdKxn3leG_MEWw_glvLlp_1wWpvO8G0ayREyVKMoyhhg _lPbxe3I4b1VTHoZJ4Q5zGwRk3hmsnXpLEfZgqJ2gRcpubJZVb 7ltxVHJ8QwAszCW6yniOp6rjfMCjcdikGkh4hxYt2PEGdnoanj rJeXSzioCedWvdkP4wvT_qwHwDsCsFju9P7OL6Doi3kmRexTm0 msLk4kL0CE2bmqdjFGbN0tsXieMbDlGPLhN01azB=w583-h777-no

I also finally got around to making misalignment spacers for the rear sway bar end links.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A136B_NLjDVSKnDuItrHtNLeO5ol0hnptr2ug72i6gw_EPFUa9 hf3vH8iEH8x3Php2Pkt7UwimEdPB41E7LjVUMv4HyXwO4DDEQq rC-cBFb9P888WqVpOtMdq_sT_Q7zO783QtYIzlSxe-YKukNVB0U31aAS3zAlWBv3XQVQrrHC21FQuMuCPlCitKYRgAPZ-Yz7RtsoIE1bPn7ybShICE06vDUvL4kr4qBDrteyaNHz0nn-MQN4oTCxLPmzDwL2_zeoQWRMkbwr32zT_tgtqEWcD5rpzPP-cYelggiz-lajpXt3oIznQzk1-DmiyxCvklqLh6MCV8SP8mGg02D0lgmDHP7dyJ2VJMm2-WP0YINbmsU-fEt9Bh_VAsWIlIopajCWvOk9gLFQSC8BiAiuxEXcywU9DfS2qi eEktZlErXVaCQVEzR0NJNJhT9MhqlYBFJ6D81lpmWrmRNnl1yR NR9RmDtfgz9cgun4a6qe-58J4l7vv6p1CM1Bp-yElRIjjTrGNIpVSzZx2n9_S4IfsG-ZJKI5SeqYGKuB1QKAldosHqXfFlM7eKEF79EA497WnLhFgU9P9 SU3F4jovWEIwUUUuDOcmQBTdYVpOxLeLIHgsypT8fqRv3O6kMr y6sgGFMERZjjV9_T3Qoos6Oh0089ZwVpMkrHMy5-U-UvGnWzLAoEYYuOEI8qmwTLa2Mzg9VDJO7IUAmlPXTnVthVpY5Z r=w1036-h777-no

I did a rough cut-out of the air dam but haven't started riveting it to the splitter. I ended up using some conveyor belt material I got from McMaster. It's a little more rigid than I hoped it would be, but it's also super cold out today so maybe it'll get a little more pliable.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E2gJk703wRr8X55S7whfTVvV469yk3o7wAmVOUCLkPbSXIFDDJ P6TMeNaeFCo1IRLMJu77mu-FW24iZax2mGDsVYXOdYybmNy6NWSKLquMjbiyUeEdulgpJQYtz 0yPogUtYzVSM4A8cIq-kb5xzZc6Y6CbL4Ai5u8K-uyPF4hop656vXybPk_tNw4gvgDNn3MnOLVcJ8uxiPRaG0B8ezs 9Fjpo-5wfQ2KeBFQvbgm2vzo0tp-ZDaRDz7KBhvK5QSGlozkLUlUh7lSdJBpfcHAmu6OhgZ143V-4Syj4G_p-Z_bQvttS6Yg3zQvz4svY1tqkTxhQw03QbL7NTMQ_-kF-MwCPRZcaHxJy8CpyWI7VYBU1KEGEPNIA91EOg2T0jSfOfJlIsl wKIz_KJV33fuJfKlx1hN1hiJelpMxzkE8Qx0-jDTitWGH_uhsVpsk97z2min8vTOFqPVot3nf5xsJM-Jbl9PDvxtky7kOxtRSvD5YgdKKRLUOVrmpPivfM0gpVVa3DcQq ZBBoOs0U3mMru_MHqozvks1UptKSZCZmaLZ14JjErZ1x-NGdDThWumgRWWPaJK2L_83nF4cQUOk8SQ6SQCrXV6k587M2C6R 1BQcRcFMfwEyRR3KxLYbtbtf0aXTLwrF2JxlonBSP8B-DuMtYsx9Pq1_coRGaHtwny42pL4CYbkbeCzyoLVX7BybxxcHKN EkWoRCCVrUihIngKW3=w1036-h777-no

I still have some engine bay clean-up to do and the final wrapping of the harness, but it really runs sweet with the Haltech, after just a bit of closed-loop O2 learning. The cooling system also bled itself while I sat here and let it idle. Fans kicked on as expected. Oil pressure and temperature are good and no odd noises yet . I need to make a clutch stop so I don't over-travel the twin-disc clutch, so the only driving I've done is in and out of the driveway. But by the end of tomorrow it'll be ready to go for a shakedown drive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSzxMieiBuk
Which rear bar is that?
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by RE-Vision View Post
Which rear bar is that?
Rear bar is a stock yellow dot with extra holes drilled (and flattening of the bar over those holes) to enable more roll stiffness if needed.
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Old 03-17-2019, 07:21 AM
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Wrapped up a few things yesterday. I finished up the alignment and re-scaled the car. I cut the hood and riveted on the hood vent. I washed the car and installed most of the graphics, though I've still got a few yet to go and I don't have any of the official SCCA decals (except the Tire Rack banner). The red numbers are the same color as my old BMW which was intentional



I shouldn't have worried about the cooling system, it bled itself after a few hot/cold cycles and now seems to be working properly. I am using a stock NC radiator right now, I kind of hope it is sufficient but if not, Goodwin racing sells a nice upgraded radiator that is bolt-in for an NC.

I drove it up and down my driveway a bit, accelerating to 40MPH and standing on the brakes to bleed the air from the ABS unit. The Haltech gets better and better as I let it self-tune, but it already runs really well after a little cold-start tweaking. I got into maybe 2psi of boost without really trying and the car feels sprightly. No rubbing or anything but I do think I'm going to have to do a little more fender clearancing work (where the rear bumper attaches to the quarter panel forms a sharp tab that I'm worried about), which will mean finding a way to attach the leading edge of the bumper.

Oh, and I'm still waiting on wing parts from Ciro.

Stuff left to do... I think I am going to work on the rear spring perches a bit. I don't like the way the spring seats on the stock steel spring perches, using a delrin adapter for 2.5" race springs. I may just fab up a plate to weld on there with a ring to center the spring. I've run the fuel tank just about dry, so I'm going to go pick up 10 gallons of E85 today and see how well the ethanol content modification table works all on its own, then continue the low-load tuning with E85. I need to build a bump steer rig, because Brett set up the rear toe arms to be adjustable for bump steer and I haven't even checked that so it's probably way off. And I've got a small exhaust leak, I think at one of the V-band clamps but I'll need to check it out. A buddy was over and recorded one of my laps up and down the driveway.


Tuning trip is set up for March 30th, Peter Florance at PFTuning will work his magic on the car and I'm sure we'll find all sorts of problems, but that's how these things go. In between now and then the only thing I really need to get done is a thorough nut and bolt of the car. Pretty excited!
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:02 PM
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Awesome progress, John! I've been pretty low on motivation for a long time now, but this is helping.

I was pretty unhappy with the 2.5" spring solution too, even with my own adapter that didn't go smaller than the spring ID, and the best fix was switching to inverted 2812s (obviously not ideal).

Last edited by Kennetht638; 03-18-2019 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:13 AM
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Thanks Kenneth. I came close to doing an inverted rear shock setup but I would have needed to buy new rear shocks. I bought a set of NC shocks for a good price right after I bought the RX-8 in 2017 and I wanted to use them. I think ultimately an inverted setup is the right answer, but I'd want to reinforce the upper shock mount to handle the load and that's more work than I have time for.

As it sits I have a helper spring, a coupler, and a 2.5" chassis spring in the rear, and I can't lower the rear any more than I have it right now unless I go to a shorter (5.5"?) rear spring. If I re-engineered the upper spring perch I could solve that problem and keep the spring located.
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Old 03-19-2019, 01:24 PM
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Great build man!
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Old 03-19-2019, 02:27 PM
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I have an upper spring perch design for a 2.5" spring that is just like the one from trackjunkie's build thread (plate that welds onto the tophat). I reverse engineered the shape of the tophat and 3D printed iterations with different 2.5" hole locations until the shock was centered for the full range of travel. PM me if you want the DXF file or more details. I had mine CNC plasma cut from 1/8" steel and it was pretty cheap.
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Old 03-20-2019, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by SportRotary View Post
I have an upper spring perch design for a 2.5" spring that is just like the one from trackjunkie's build thread (plate that welds onto the tophat). I reverse engineered the shape of the tophat and 3D printed iterations with different 2.5" hole locations until the shock was centered for the full range of travel. PM me if you want the DXF file or more details. I had mine CNC plasma cut from 1/8" steel and it was pretty cheap.
Thanks! I should have a set of plates in a couple days. I appreciate you sending me the info.

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