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I'm doing my engine build and prepping to run no thermostat. Racing beat says this on there website.
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Mazda uses a "bypass" type water thermostat. If you intend to use the water pump in a racing application this thermostat must be removed and the hole below it plugged. A 2" NPT pipe thread tap and matching plug will accomplish this task.
My question is which outlet are they talking about? Heres a diagram.Sorry for the large size. Not sure how to adjust.
I already explained it to you in an earlier discussion. You need to open it up, take the t-stat out, and look down inside. That is the bypass path that needs to be plugged. The t-stat housing will need to be removed to do that; part 15-176B on the diagram.
For racing you can still do all that, but may need to experiment with different hole sizes in the plate. That’s probably a good place to start though. I still question how effectively a t-stat blocks off the bypass on the Renesis, but haven’t been able to explore it further with my car still not running yet.
I've had the T-stat out the whole engines out its not a laziness thing. I'm looking at it right now and I must have less than half a brain because I am still unsure.
Would it be worth to just gut the thermostat like a cat but leave the outer edge and rubber gasket? Or would such an opening create a priming issue for the coolant flow? Or is that a scavenging issue? Not sure of the term.
Where do the main radiator hoses attach? One big connection is the inlet from the radiator to the water pump (bottom one - #4) and the other connection is the outlet back to the radiator (top one - #5) t-stat housing cap. The flow path (#1 on your picture) down inside between the two is the bypass passage; when t-stat is closed fluid recirculates through the bypass passage back to the pump inlet rather than back to the radiator. The coolant is recirculated this way until the temperature rises enough to open the t-stat. When the t-stat is fully open it protrudes down and seals off the bypass path and coolant then flows fully between the engine and radiator instead for full cooling.
If you want to get rid of the t-stat you have to block off the bypass passage. Otherwise it will always be recirculating hot coolant through it.
I think God sent you to teach me patience; thank you.
I think God sent you to teach me patience; thank you.
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While I appreciate you taking time out of your day to answer my questions I'm sure there are others that can answer them if my self or my questions are so trying.
Sorry that it made you feel that way. Apparently you took it as sarcasm, but I can assure you that topic is important to me and it was a sincere compliment to both you and God. It took a lot for me to get there from where I was before and I couldn’t have done it on my own.
I’ve been trying to help you understand, but up until your prior post was working on the assumption that you have some basic understanding on how a coolant system works. I’d urge you some caution going forward as modifying and tinkering with things you don’t understand can have expensive, if not catastrophic, consequences. I’ll do my best to help you understand if you’re willing to accept it.
Honestly, I could not fathom how that section was closed so I did not think it was the bypass tube. I didn't consider the thermostats actual movement or that it could move that much to block off that artery. Nice write-up Team, and thanks for the picture Adax.
07-05-2019, 12:31 PM
Running no thermostat question
