RB two-piece rotors are made from specially formulated alloys and high carbon cast ion and are proven in the race tracks that they are highly resistant to wear, warping or thermal cracking under extreme heat cycles than OE or others.

Since our disc material is different from OE or other rotor manufacturers, the same racing pads you used to know or install (typically Carbotech or Ferrado) and work well on these rotors may not function satisfactorily on our rotors. One of the most common issues is the pad deposit which is a substance emitted from the pad under high heat and transferred to the rotor surface that can cause vibration, pedal pulsation and hot spots on rotors surface resulting in thermal cracks or pre-mature brake failure.

ItÂ’s your own protection and responsibility to ensure that you use the true racing pads that used by professional racers like Hawk, Mintex, Raybestos (Porterfield), Cobalt or Pagid that can really take the heat without pad deposit concern. Nothing comes without a cost, professional racing pads prices are usually 20-30 percent more than Carbotech or Ferrado which are more popular to weekend racers.

To help you offset the cost burden for Corvette C6 applications we are offering a 20% discount on Hawk pads (street or motorsports) if ordered together with our two-piece rotors.

Please be aware that pad deposit comes from pad and stays on rotor, not originated by rotor but it can easily cause rotor to fail, which is beyond what we can guarantee.



(Click to enlarge)

We have sold thousand sets of high performance rotors (one piece, two piece and brake kit), so far we received two reports on RB rotors performance issues resulting from the pad deposit (build up):

First customer used RB one piece rotor for his front EVO and he used Ferrado 2500 pad:
http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sho...d.php?t=155348

Second customer used RB two piece rotor for his front STi and he used Carbotech XP10 pad:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=936395

Both cases were well discussed on their forums and we did not disagree to their discussion, although we would also like to see how we can help them out, as we believe an open discussion is the best way to find out the truth. By reading the two threads you would probably agree that:

On both issues, customers used other pads than what we have endorsed which is Hawk.
We found no similar or more instances in those threads, in fact there are people complimenting on our brake performance.
Brake is a rather complicated system to optimize the performance especially for highly demanding braking requirement; unless an analysis is done similar to the one in here:
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/showthre...=30353&page=20

When there is a problem the driver tends to put the blame on “rotors” and center the discussion around it, which not only is unfair to the rotor manufacturer but also can mislead the readers.

We have also consulted a racing pads expert dealing with NASCAR professional racing teams and his comments on brake pad deposit (build up):



Quote:
"There are several reasons that an unusual pad build up can occur on a rotor. It is important that the rotor be machined well with good parallelism, flatness, and run out. From our experience the RB rotors meet this standard and this should not be a concern. Some pad compounds are more prone to leaving build-up on rotors than the other. This especially occurs when the pad is used at temperatures outside the operating range the pad was designed for. It is important for racers to have an idea of what temperatures their brake systems are operating in at any given event and choose an appropriate pad for that temperature range."

Our two-piece rotors are machined with high precision and dynamically balanced which cannot be achieved by a brake shop. Resurfacing the rotor not only wouldn't solve the problem, as it will come back, but also the rotor precision integrity will be impaired. Turning the rotor surface is not recommended.

Always consult your racing pad suppliers and make sure the pad you choose is appropriate for your braking temperature range. If you do experience an abnormal deposit, talk to your pad suppliers for their recommendations, clean the deposit on the rotor rather than resurfacing it.

We also like to reiterate that RB two piece rotors have been made from the same racing metallurgy (different from stock material) with proven success:
http://forums.racingbrake.com/viewtopic.php?t=49

Anyhow, I'd think if you are going to go down the path suggested by RB, you will need dedicated rotors for street and track, imho.

While there is a difference between "pad deposit" and "pad transfer film", the fact is that the only way disc brakes work is with pad material being transferred to the rotor, at some level. The problem with running dedicated race pads and street pads on the same rotor is that the street pads typically will not be able to, in effect, scrape the transfer film of the race pads from the rotors, when switched. Ultimately, the street pads are likely to get big time squeal and shudder, due to the uneven pad transfer film that can develop. On the other hand, if you run race pads on the street, you will eat rotors up, because you won't get up to operating temps and will be stopping by simply grinding the pad against the rotor...

I guess you could use a dual purpose pad that you are happy with, on stock rotors (like the Carbotech XP's). Given the speeds acheived by stock '8s on course, this should work for most. Or have two sets of rotors (which is what I did with my Z06, seeing as oem rotors were $24/each...no shxt) and run bed/run one set of race pads/rotors for track days and another set for street.

In either case, this whole pad question is just one piece of the puzzle...personally, if I was going to track my RX8, the first thing I'd do for the brake system is install some ducting directly to the spindle/center of rotor, before I started "optimizing" my choice of brake pad.