New endurance racer build
04-01-2008, 09:59 PM
#27
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Clutch and flywheel are in, rear gear is changed, Alum. radiator, Hawk brake pads, pullies, and swaybar installed. Hoping to test mother's day weekend.
04-02-2008, 09:11 AM
#30
dont use hawks man use carbotechs they transition so much better and the braking for the 8 is one of its strong points.
Did you seam weld or rivet?
We do have a better waterpump available---wasnt sure if you are aware--you probably are.
oil filter relocation also can be used as a stealth cooler and increased volume
dont use washers on the lead plug
better ground for the coils other than oem---it sucks with that pigtail they have.
olddragger
Did you seam weld or rivet?
We do have a better waterpump available---wasnt sure if you are aware--you probably are.
oil filter relocation also can be used as a stealth cooler and increased volume
dont use washers on the lead plug
better ground for the coils other than oem---it sucks with that pigtail they have.
olddragger
04-02-2008, 10:30 AM
#31
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+1 on the carbotechs. I've scared a few driving instructors pretty good with those 
I had a lot more confidence with them than the hawks.
Out of curiosity, whats the price range for a build like this, minus the cost of the car itself?
I had a lot more confidence with them than the hawks.Out of curiosity, whats the price range for a build like this, minus the cost of the car itself?
04-02-2008, 03:07 PM
#33
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Koni Challenge Regulations Section 6-3.2 Air bags and related components must be removed. Steering wheel locks must be removed.
Reason is i got stuck some months back in a project to have a push button start/stop, without the need to turn the ignition over and disengage the steering lock
04-02-2008, 03:28 PM
#34
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I haven't done it yet on these cars but did on my Miatas and the FC I used to race. Easy enough to dissasemble the lock and remove the lock pin. The ignition switch (electrical part) is just a module that attaches to the key cylinder. Hardest part is getting the two screws that look like rivets out. An air chisel works well for this.
The Hawk pads are mor for the ease of getting it done for now. They are what we have used forever in the Miatas and had good luck with them. I'm friends with Danny and the guys at Carbotech so that might come latter.
The door bars are a tricky thing on the 8. We need to keep the rear door operational So you would have to make a "S" bend in them. That arrangment is very weak and to me the double tube X is just as strong. I am also going to fill the door with foam and skin the inside with kevlar.
As for cost I would guess in the $30k range. I'll let you know in the end.
The Hawk pads are mor for the ease of getting it done for now. They are what we have used forever in the Miatas and had good luck with them. I'm friends with Danny and the guys at Carbotech so that might come latter.
The door bars are a tricky thing on the 8. We need to keep the rear door operational So you would have to make a "S" bend in them. That arrangment is very weak and to me the double tube X is just as strong. I am also going to fill the door with foam and skin the inside with kevlar.
As for cost I would guess in the $30k range. I'll let you know in the end.
04-02-2008, 03:38 PM
#35
The door bars are a tricky thing on the 8. We need to keep the rear door operational So you would have to make a "S" bend in them. That arrangment is very weak and to me the double tube X is just as strong. I am also going to fill the door with foam and skin the inside with kevlar.
As for cost I would guess in the $30k range. I'll let you know in the end.
As for cost I would guess in the $30k range. I'll let you know in the end.
http://dgemotorsports.com/content/ro...s/2004-rx8.php
Last edited by ULLLOSE; 04-02-2008 at 03:50 PM.
04-02-2008, 07:00 PM
#39
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I realy don't think that would do much in terms of a side impact. The cage is far from done also and there is a jacking point extending from the center of the X down through the rocker that you don't see in the photos.
04-02-2008, 09:22 PM
#40
it will limit the upper bars movement without also pulling the lower bar with it, which I assume you'll bracket the seat mounts to as well so that it would all tend to move together in the event of such an event
but just so we're clear, I don't see anything wrong in the way you did it, and yes I do see the jacking point
but just so we're clear, I don't see anything wrong in the way you did it, and yes I do see the jacking point
04-02-2008, 10:03 PM
#41
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SECTION 6 - MANDATORY SAFETY EQUIPMENT/MODIFICATIONS
6-1 Roll Cage - All cars must be equipped with a roll cage made from a minimum of 1.750 x .090 DOM
seamless steel tubing and constructed per normal industry standard on any car built after 2001.
The roll cage must include a horizontal bar between the main hoop upright, at shoulder height, to
facilitate seat bracing/mounting. The roll cage structure may not extend forward beyond the firewall.
KONI Challenge cars present a variety of different scenarios when it comes to roll cage
construction.
Just trying to help out a little bit...I don't want you guys to get it all put together and go thru tech and be turned away. I see this happening to another KONI entrant already...no names though.
Last edited by I8U; 04-02-2008 at 10:15 PM.
