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New endurance racer build

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Old 04-01-2008, 09:57 PM
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Some more progress...




Old 04-01-2008, 09:59 PM
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Clutch and flywheel are in, rear gear is changed, Alum. radiator, Hawk brake pads, pullies, and swaybar installed. Hoping to test mother's day weekend.
Old 04-01-2008, 10:09 PM
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nice progress
Old 04-02-2008, 12:12 AM
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Lookin good!
Old 04-02-2008, 09:11 AM
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dont use hawks man use carbotechs they transition so much better and the braking for the 8 is one of its strong points.
Did you seam weld or rivet?
We do have a better waterpump available---wasnt sure if you are aware--you probably are.
oil filter relocation also can be used as a stealth cooler and increased volume
dont use washers on the lead plug
better ground for the coils other than oem---it sucks with that pigtail they have.
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Old 04-02-2008, 10:30 AM
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+1 on the carbotechs. I've scared a few driving instructors pretty good with those I had a lot more confidence with them than the hawks.

Out of curiosity, whats the price range for a build like this, minus the cost of the car itself?
Old 04-02-2008, 10:54 AM
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I am surprised to see a lack of NASCAR style door bars... Even the club racing guys are using them, more room to live in a side impact, and it is easier to get in an out of the car.
Old 04-02-2008, 03:07 PM
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Koni Challenge Regulations Section 6-3.2 Air bags and related components must be removed. Steering wheel locks must be removed.
i would very much like to learn about how your doing this, if it can be done without destroying the ignition cylinder assembly.

Reason is i got stuck some months back in a project to have a push button start/stop, without the need to turn the ignition over and disengage the steering lock
Old 04-02-2008, 03:28 PM
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I haven't done it yet on these cars but did on my Miatas and the FC I used to race. Easy enough to dissasemble the lock and remove the lock pin. The ignition switch (electrical part) is just a module that attaches to the key cylinder. Hardest part is getting the two screws that look like rivets out. An air chisel works well for this.
The Hawk pads are mor for the ease of getting it done for now. They are what we have used forever in the Miatas and had good luck with them. I'm friends with Danny and the guys at Carbotech so that might come latter.
The door bars are a tricky thing on the 8. We need to keep the rear door operational So you would have to make a "S" bend in them. That arrangment is very weak and to me the double tube X is just as strong. I am also going to fill the door with foam and skin the inside with kevlar.
As for cost I would guess in the $30k range. I'll let you know in the end.
Old 04-02-2008, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BERG
The door bars are a tricky thing on the 8. We need to keep the rear door operational So you would have to make a "S" bend in them. That arrangment is very weak and to me the double tube X is just as strong. I am also going to fill the door with foam and skin the inside with kevlar.
As for cost I would guess in the $30k range. I'll let you know in the end.
I don't know, this looks good to me:

http://dgemotorsports.com/content/ro...s/2004-rx8.php

Last edited by ULLLOSE; 04-02-2008 at 03:50 PM.
Old 04-02-2008, 05:47 PM
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Install another vertical tube in the S crossover point, fixed.
Old 04-02-2008, 06:12 PM
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the S? not sure?
Old 04-02-2008, 06:42 PM
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........

Originally Posted by BERG
The door bars are a tricky thing on the 8. We need to keep the rear door operational So you would have to make a "S" bend in them. That arrangment is very weak and to me the double tube X is just as strong.
Old 04-02-2008, 07:00 PM
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I realy don't think that would do much in terms of a side impact. The cage is far from done also and there is a jacking point extending from the center of the X down through the rocker that you don't see in the photos.
Old 04-02-2008, 09:22 PM
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it will limit the upper bars movement without also pulling the lower bar with it, which I assume you'll bracket the seat mounts to as well so that it would all tend to move together in the event of such an event

but just so we're clear, I don't see anything wrong in the way you did it, and yes I do see the jacking point
Old 04-02-2008, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BERG
I realy don't think that would do much in terms of a side impact. The cage is far from done also and there is a jacking point extending from the center of the X down through the rocker that you don't see in the photos.
This is from the KONI challenge rule book. I know it also says in one section that three NASCAR style bars are recommended on the drivers side.

SECTION 6 - MANDATORY SAFETY EQUIPMENT/MODIFICATIONS
6-1 Roll Cage - All cars must be equipped with a roll cage made from a minimum of 1.750 x .090 DOM
seamless steel tubing and constructed per normal industry standard on any car built after 2001.
The roll cage must include a horizontal bar between the main hoop upright, at shoulder height, to
facilitate seat bracing/mounting. The roll cage structure may not extend forward beyond the firewall.
KONI Challenge cars present a variety of different scenarios when it comes to roll cage
construction.


Just trying to help out a little bit...I don't want you guys to get it all put together and go thru tech and be turned away. I see this happening to another KONI entrant already...no names though.

Last edited by I8U; 04-02-2008 at 10:15 PM.
Old 04-20-2008, 12:38 PM
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More progress. Car is at the bodyshop now and I'm on my honeymoon. More pics when I get back.

Old 04-20-2008, 03:58 PM
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Glad things are going well...looking forward to seeing you guys out at the track!
Old 04-21-2008, 09:26 AM
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nice cage.
OD
Old 05-11-2008, 06:32 AM
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First day on track yesterday. Things went well. More to come latter...
Old 05-11-2008, 08:51 AM
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sweet! good luck to you...
Old 05-11-2008, 09:07 AM
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Pics! Pics!
Old 05-12-2008, 11:36 AM
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Last edited by BERG; 05-12-2008 at 11:38 AM. Reason: link was wrong
Old 05-12-2008, 05:50 PM
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damn thats awesome.

so you guys also replaced the roof w/ one that doesnt have a sunroof?

i love the cage
Old 05-13-2008, 11:17 AM
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Thanks, I've been busting my but to get things going. The roof panels are available from Mazda and are cheaper then trying to patch to old one.


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